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Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.


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I got my new speedo housing of Glen and Rosemary smith from vintage restorations last week. I pulled the one out of my sedan to see how it all went back together. To my surprise it was in perfect condition and an original. It’s funny how some pot metal lasted and some didn’t, I guess the sedan got a good mix of metal that day. Both Speedo’s have been on the dining table for 4 days with me playing with them trying to get them both to work perfectly. I’ve had them both completely apart trying to get the odometer to turn over freely. I’ve got one working well and now just getting the other speedo to turn and return freely. They are extremely fiddlely to get right. But I will persevere with it until it works. The old one is in the plastic container in a thousand bits. I set the odometer to 00000 for the completed restoration and did 95 miles with a drill to check it was working well. The new housing from Glen was made absolutely beautifully. 

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10 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Trying to put the gas gauge together is very fiddly as well mate 

I don’t have an original for the tank Ron so I bought an electric one and will just have to use that. I mounted a modern gauge in place of the original with a bit of cutting and shutting. The only way to tell is the needle is just straight but I can live with that. I will keep looking for an original to fit it. 

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On 8/19/2020 at 2:32 AM, gundog99 said:

The fuel grade was a  very difficult job, not helped by the original and new casting not  quit matching, I had someone restore the sender and all was fine for about six mouths but it has stopped working.

I would like to get an original one just to have the rear tank gauge there working. The original electric ones are very hard to rebuild. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thought I would also see how much work I am in for with preparing the bumpers. They are very badly pitted with rust. I started the sanding with a Prerd flexible grinding disc on a sander polisher. Then worked my way down in grits from 80 down to 320 on a soft 6” pad. 
I think to do the whole 4 bumpers will take about 2 days. It’s very tedious but very rewarding to see the finished product. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made a start on preparing my engine to be sent away and machined. 
Now I have it all pulled apart I’ll measure it up to see what size I need to get it bored out to. I’m going to get new valve seats put into it and just deck the top to the minimum I can. 
Have to wait until we are out of lockdown before I can do it but hopefully it won’t be long. The bearings are all in good condition so I’ll just put a new set of lungs in it. Balance it all up and hopefully she should be good for years to come. 
 

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3 hours ago, stakeside said:

Have you seen the engine run before your rebuild. If not the block should be checked for cracks.

Yes thanks for that , The place that I’m sending it to will check all that for me.

I actually picked this engine up from a clearing sale. The bearings are in great condition but the crank has a few water mark imperfections but I’m hoping they will not affect it to much.  

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2 hours ago, aunty norm said:

Matt,  Talk to Peter J, he has his motors running really sweet! He does a few mods so as to get the best out of them.  Also Clive cams and ignition development  can also help!   Terry

Pete called in yesterday Terry and had a look at it, and thinks it’s a better block to use than the original one. He also had a look at the crank and bearing and said they are ok. Not perfect but ok. We are going to get JP pistons to make a few sets of pistons as he needs a couple of sets himself. 
He actually went through a few of his tricks with me yesterday on getting them to run and perform a bit better. Pete is an absolute wealth of knowledge when it comes to the Victory six. I couldn’t of got this project to where it is without his help. 

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9 hours ago, aunty norm said:

Yes, you are correct about Peter! What he doesn't know about victory six, it not worth knowing!

Plus, he is a hell of a nice guy and always willing to help!

I think I have got almost all the parts I have needed Bar a few for all 3 of my dodges of Pete. It’s normally an all day visit to Pete’s when you go to his place, so much to see and learn. I feel pretty lucky with the knowledge and information he has shared with me about the victory six roadster. What he has gathered in 15 years of working on his, he has passed that on to me so he can see another old dodge brought back to life correctly. Very hard to repay such help. Great fella 👍

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I made a copy of my tool box this afternoon from what was left of the old one. The bulk of it was there for me to copy. 
I made it out of gal sheet because I don’t want to paint it on the inside. That way when the jack and tools slide around they won’t scratch the paint off and let it rust. I’ll sit a bit of rubber in there anyway which will help. 
still need to cut out all my mounting holes. 
I’ll make my battery box next also, so I can fit them into the chassis before painting. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have managed to get the speedo and odometer’s working for both the sedan and the roadster. It has been a very fiddley job getting them to run smoothly. I now have the instrument panel fully restored for the roadster. 
 

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4 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

I have managed to get the speedo and odometer’s working for both the sedan and the roadster. It has been a very fiddley job getting them to run smoothly. I now have the instrument panel fully restored for the roadster. 
 

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Beautiful!

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I started preparing my engine for painting today. I’m going to go mental on it and make it as nice as the body panels. I’ve started sanding and die grinding all the casting marks of it. It’s completely unnecessary but it’s only time. Also makes it easy to keep clean. It’s will be bored out to .020 oversize so I’m going to get the pistons made first and then send the engine away for machining after we get parole and allowed free. I have made a stainless steel water jacket cover and nickel plated the valve covers so it should look pretty spech. I’ll be preparing the head the same as the block and painting it all a darkish grey. I think that was the original colour for the 6. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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I understand lockdown, Ron. Yours is much more severe then ours and ours is driving people batty. I don't think most of us geezers are going to live to see normal again. Not sure about your country but our politicians are all liars. Our numbers are not near what is reported. 

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7 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

I understand lockdown, Ron. Yours is much more severe then ours and ours is driving people batty. I don't think most of us geezers are going to live to see normal again. Not sure about your country but our politicians are all liars. Our numbers are not near what is reported. 

I had to find something to do in the shed while I have to sit on my Ass Doug Haha. 
I think Trump is the only person in the world that has recovered from COVID in 3 days. I bet he never even had it. 
Our state premier is a control freak trying to destroy all small businesses. We are having around 10 new cases a day out of 5.5 million people. We need to come out of lockdown. 

Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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9 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

I wasn't trying to drag this into the gutter, I am depressed. This is Hershey week but it ain't happening, today would have been setup day. I live about 1 1/2 miles from the flea market and show field and it's all MT. 

That is upsetting Doug to be missing that. 
All our swap meets are cancelled also. 
We are all here to support each other no matter what. Best to talk about it and vent I say so we can leave it in the gutter for a bit. 😁

They are really nice rubbers that you sent me to Doug , they fit beautifully in the doors. 

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I got my plating tanks finished today for doing my bumper bars and all the other long bits I need to do. 
I still need to set them up with all the plating equipment, anodes and things. Hopefully it will all arrive soon. 
it’s a bit of an experiment but if it works it will be worth the trouble and expense. 
It will use about 40litres of plating chemical in each bath and that will put the bumper about 50mm below the surface. 
 

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I’ve got all the electrical set up done on the baths. 
I have used stainless steel strap to run all the anodes as it makes it easier for fixing them in place and keeping everything exactly where I want it. 
The top negative charged rail is adjustable for different size parts. I’ve used 2 stainless rods that jam tight into the top to get a good quality connection. 
so once my nickel anodes get here I’ll give it all a whirl and see how it goes. 
I have fitted 2 small pond pumps in each engine to give good movement of the plating solution over the surface of the job being plated. 
The front bumper in there has plenty of clearance around it. 

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3 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

And here I was struggling to get a few screws in the dash.

 

Who are you people ???....I've never seen a set up like that.....I'm more impressed than anything......hope they come out looking mint !

People with to much time on their hands maybe 😂
Thanks Ian it’s a bit of a gamble doing this but if it works I’ll be pretty happy. The cost of electro plating has got out of control here in Melbourne. If it works out ok it will be half the cost of getting it done elsewhere. Then I’ll also have it for doing other cars in the future. 
It’s also a very rewarding job taking a rusty part that looks like it’s ready for the scrap heap and it turns into a beautiful shiny part as good as new. 
 

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33 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Please take shots of each process, I'm really interested to see how these turn out.

Yes I definitely will do that for sure. Doug is interested also on the process so I’ll post the good bad and ugly. 

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Going to try and make a start on the bumpers this weekend nickel plating them. 
I received all the chemicals today and have put them in the tanks to dissolve overnight. 
I have my cowl moulding ready to plate so I’ll try that fist to see how it goes. 
will sure be interesting to see how it works. 
I have got a picture here of the bumpers done at each stage of preparation for plating. I need to run the scotch-brite wheel over  the last one there and it will be ready for degreaser cleaning. Then it goes into Hydraulic acid for about 15 minutes, from there it’s rinsed in water. Out of there into sulphuric acid for 3-5 minutes, another final clean without touching it and another clean water rinse and straight into the nickel bath for about 45minutes I think at this stage. I will play that by ear with the new set up. 
From there it’s rinsed and put into the copper plating tank to build up some corrosion protection and get it ready for polishing. 
Be more pics tomorrow of a success or a F##k up. Lol

 

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The cloudy looking bar is basically ready to plate. The shinier one has been finished with a 3M tri Zac linishing belt. The scratches from that are still to much to nickel plate straight over. I like to sand it with an orbital sander with 400g paper then a scotch-brite wheel on the bench grinder. 

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Picked up the wiring loom today from Vintage wiring harnesses. 
All looks pretty good I might have to adjust a few eyelets to fit the block properly but other than that it looks pretty good. 
I got 3 meters of spark plug lead and all the original type fittings to make the leads too. 
Does anyone know of or have a spare spark plug lead cover that goes over the top of the engine to carry all the leads. That is one thing I haven’t got yet. 

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