Mattml430

Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.

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Hoping to have all the rust repaired in the chassis by the end of the week, so then I can pull the engine and diff out. Remove all the springs and replace the bushing. I’ll also run new steel brake lines and fuel line while I have good clean access to it all. 
 

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Rather than steel brake lines, might I suggest Cunifer, nickel-copper lines.  They are much easier to bend and flair, and they won’t rust.  They also have the coppery color the original lines had.  They are used in many modern cars.  I used them on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan and couldn’t have been happier.

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2 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Rather than steel brake lines, might I suggest Cunifer, nickel-copper lines.  They are much easier to bend and flair, and they won’t rust.  They also have the coppery color the original lines had.  They are used in many modern cars.  I used them on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan and couldn’t have been happier.

Ok , thanks I’ll look into it. Can we get them in the same size as original?

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You can get 3/16” CuNi here pretty easily, it’s pretty standard.  1/4” also available.  What size are your lines?

Edited by RichBad (see edit history)

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9 minutes ago, RichBad said:

You can get 3/16” CuNi here pretty easily, it’s pretty standard.  1/4” also available.  What size are your lines?

They look like 1/4 to me but I haven’t measured them. 
where can I get it from Rich? 

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Just realised the stuff I got was 1/4” but plain copper.  Very easy to form which is good.  Probably closer to what was used originally and available on eBay or any AC place - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163814585470

 

cupronickel doesn’t seem to be so readily available here although pretty easy to get from uk on eBay.  I think the Australian ADRs require bundy or stainless for brake lines which may be why it’s not so readily available here.

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Cunifer actually has a higher burst pressure then steel and is a little more expensive. It is used on some English cars from new. Your Victory probably had copper from new as did my '29 DA and most other Chrysler products at that time. Very nice to work with. 

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Yer I can see plenty in UK and US but not a whole lot here. Few mixed ideas on weather it’s legal in Australia or not. The pressures in our cars are obviously perfectly ok to run copper being that it’s been fine for 90 years. If it was manufactured with copper I think it’s fine to have copper in it again.  

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Copper gets brittle and can crack.  It doesn’t like constant vibration.  My 29 Plymouth had its original copper brake lines when I got it and several snapped with little pressure when I removed them from the frame during restoration.  Copper-nickel doesn’t corrode, stays flexible and has a superior pressure rating.  I made repeated, flawless double flares with my Eastwood flaring tool, and easily bent the lines to their original locations.  I helped a friend install stainless lines and they were a pain to flare and bend using the same tools.  You can probably get away with copper, but I’ll always use copper-nickel from now on.

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I was not trying to confuse you, wasn't suggesting using copper. Just saying the original lines on Chrysler products of that time were copper. Modern copper tubing certainly does work harden and shouldn't be used for brakes or fuel lines. 

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I just had a quick look at the brake lines and it would appear the front 2 line’s are 3/16 and the rear single line is 1/4. 
didn’t actually measure them just looked, bit full from Christmas lunch to be going to, to much trouble. Haha. 
Are they measured from the OD or ID. 

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I’ve completed all the chassis fabrication and all the rust repairs on it. Have also made new body supports that run along the chassis. 
pulled the engine and gearbox out yesterday with the help of my 5 year old grandson. 
It’s  all looking nice n clean and  tidy. Next is all the springs and bushes, about 6 leaves need to be removed from the rears as they bulked up the rear end for the Ute. 
 

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Looks good mate, I think there are details for spring dimensions and leaves on the DBC web site I’ll have a look as i think I’ve got a copy as had mine re-set and the top leaf re-made.

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Some years ago, I wanted to have my DA springs reset. I went to Industrial Springs in Adelaide (who I had used before for a number of different spring issues) but they convinced me to have a new set made. They had all the data on early vehicle springs and were able to manufacture a new set from their records to OEM specs.

Unfortunately Industrial Springs closed down a few years ago, however I understand that Sealeys Spring Works in Mount Gambier (in the South East of South Australia) bought some of Industrial Springs equipment and also their spring specifications when they closed down. Spoke to the owner of the business a couple of years ago and he seemed very helpful. They claim to have been manufacturing springs for over a century.

May be worth a phone call if you can't get what you want locally (https://www.sealeysspringworks.com.au/

John

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I’ll see how they are sitting once I do all the bushes and remove the extra leafs in the rear. 
I’m  a bit hesitant getting them reset or a new set. The old girls ride so nice over the bumps just they way they are. 
I will definitely check them of all the info supplied thanks fellas. 

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There’s nothing like pulling apart a rusty old car to find some brand new brake linings and a new clutch. 
I was pretty happy with that. 
The front right lining still has an ink stamp on it. 
Kinda makes you wonder what happened for it to have near new brakes and clutch and then be parked up and left in a shed or paddock. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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Made some good progress with all my brakes today. 
Got them completely disassembled sand blasted and ready for paint. I gave all the brake cylinders a light hone and they are in amazing condition. I have new kits coming for them and I’ll have them all back together after some paint. Machined  all my drums So the brakes will be as good as new. 
Outer Axle  bearings in the diff are as good as new also. I think this was a well serviced car in its day. 
 

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I got a second hand electroplating kit yesterday to do all my small parts in nickel plating. I was amazed how quick and easy it was to do, once I got my head around the sequence and technique of doing it. 
I tried it out on the headlight nut and after cleaning it up i nickeled it first then copper coated it after that. Polished the copper to a mirror finish and the nickeled it again. 
very impressed with the finish but I should of prepared the nut a little better but it was just to test it out so I may redo it yet. 

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After receiving my new brake parts I got them all assembled back together today after work.  
Also made a start on the master cylinder and got it all pulled apart and ready for rebuilding. 
 

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Matt, Don't make the same mistake that I did Restored all of the brakes like you are doing and 6 or so  years down the track had to do them all again as the fluid had gone to goo in the wheel cylinders  I redone them and just coated every thing in rubber grease and then had no problems when I added fluid and bled them out 8 years later You are doing a great job too by the way  Keep up the great work as I am sure that you are an instiration to other restorers that gander at these forums

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6 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Matt, Don't make the same mistake that I did Restored all of the brakes like you are doing and 6 or so  years down the track had to do them all again as the fluid had gone to goo in the wheel cylinders  I redone them and just coated every thing in rubber grease and then had no problems when I added fluid and bled them out 8 years later You are doing a great job too by the way  Keep up the great work as I am sure that you are an instiration to other restorers that gander at these forums

Thanks Ron, I just sprayed a bit of lube in there to let them slide in nicely. Once I have them all hooked up after the chassis is painted I will probably put fluid in then. 
That’s still a bit away yet though. How’s yours coming along?

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I still have the bonnet to do and both front mudguards plus Upholstery  I am ordering some windscreen framing material from the U,S, to make the sides and bottom of my windscreen I have a full length of the top bar 

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