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Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.


Mattml430
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5 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

You did good, Matt. Pat yourself on the back, and take the day off.

Thanks Doug and even though there is still a fair bit to do thank you to this forum and all it’s great members that have helped along the way. 
You’ve been a great help to me Doug putting me in contact with different people to help me along with this old girl. Teddy Has been very helpful with sending me so many photos of bits and pieces it just takes all the doubt of how thing can be. 
 

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She looks fantastic mate. it is a special feeling when all of the parts that have been stored away  put back together and they become one again as Doug said pat yourself on the back and have a relaxing day working on the Lancia hahaha

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Thanks fellas. You guys have been a huge help. 

I do have trouble pulling myself away from fixing the air in the lancia Ron. I have only one quarter panel to go before I’m at the end of that tin can. 

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8 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Ted, how close are you to putting the body back on? I need to get Dan there for pictures before that happens. Matt, what Lancia do you have? I see a Merc in the backround of the garage but that's too new to work on. 

I’m repairing a Fulvia segato I think it’s called. About a 64 model. Rust rust rust. Doing it for a friend that repairs them. 
Im 3/4 of the way around it just the front right to go. 

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11 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

They tell me it will be worth around $80k. I wouldn’t give them $80 for it. They’re a terribly built car. Feel free to shoot me if I am seen in it. 

Bang , Bugger I Missed and that was the only slug that I had 

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1 minute ago, Ron Lawson said:

Bang , Bugger I Missed and that was the only slug that I had 

Haha you’ll never see me in that Italian tin can Ronny. Not even to push it out the shed. 😂🤣

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Thanks Matt  for the info on the dash/ wood graining your workmanship is unreal. 
just wondering on the overdrive that you have installed what sort of percentage step up it is and what your diff ratio is? We are looking at options to get Dads DA moving along better, it seems to be racing at 35-40mph a bit slow on the open road. Thanks for any info.

Cheers Ben

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1 hour ago, Vintageben said:

Thanks Matt  for the info on the dash/ wood graining your workmanship is unreal. 
just wondering on the overdrive that you have installed what sort of percentage step up it is and what your diff ratio is? We are looking at options to get Dads DA moving along better, it seems to be racing at 35-40mph a bit slow on the open road. Thanks for any info.

Cheers Ben

Thanks Ben

Im keeping the original ratio as the roadster is lighter than the sedan, normally Pete said he would change the diff to a DA for the sedan but reckons the roadster will be fine with it’s original. 
pete tells me at around 80kph with the over drive clicked in we should get around 90kph at the same engine speed. 

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2 hours ago, Vintageben said:

Thanks Matt  for the info on the dash/ wood graining your workmanship is unreal. 
just wondering on the overdrive that you have installed what sort of percentage step up it is and what your diff ratio is? We are looking at options to get Dads DA moving along better, it seems to be racing at 35-40mph a bit slow on the open road. Thanks for any info.

Cheers Ben

Hi Ben, for the DAs a good mod is to fit the diff centre from a 28 four cylinder “fast four” .  They are interchangeable quite easily and give a better cruising speed.

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22 minutes ago, RichBad said:

Hi Ben, for the DAs a good mod is to fit the diff centre from a 28 four cylinder “fast four” .  They are interchangeable quite easily and give a better cruising speed.

Yeah we were kinda thinking that the fast 4 diff centre might be the go. However we do have a couple different overdrives laying around, one is a Borgwarner  electric overdrive and the other is a neat little full mechanical overdrive that were produced in Queensland. Thanks Ben

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2 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Thanks Ben

Im keeping the original ratio as the roadster is lighter than the sedan, normally Pete said he would change the diff to a DA for the sedan but reckons the roadster will be fine with it’s original. 
pete tells me at around 80kph with the over drive clicked in we should get around 90kph at the same engine speed. 

Thanks Matt

yeah Dads DA Roadster is working hard at 80kph I’m guessing it got a real low diff in it we need to do more investigation in to it. Cheers Ben

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45 minutes ago, Ron Lawson said:

How are you NOT going to chip that paint fitting the split ring mate  They look to nice to scratch

I actually did a bit of a test run with the undercoat on there and some how it doesn’t scratch the paint. I’m going to put a small lock tab on the join and then I thought of buying the biggest circlip pliers I could and utilise the holes to help spread the ring. Even my small circlip pliers help to get it on. 
Don’t worry Ron I was stressing about the same thing. 
I also tried 2 pry bars with good success. Used one to spread it and the other to flick it off. Hopefully they don’t go on and off to often. 

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Onto my last wheel, All the rims have been so well made Steve at Vintage rims has done a perfect job of them. Everything has lined up perfectly and they all spin really true. They have all been within 1mm or less. AEFD52DC-309B-4CF9-8FA7-D97171716D3F.jpeg.a02f8a34e3cefe7e5df465908ea0cade.jpeg
Bruce the guy that sold me the stainless spokes told me to build a jig of one of the old rims before I start. I think without that jig the job would of been so much harder to set it all up. 
So I’m very thankful for the helpful advice on lacing these rims up. 7282FAC4-DB2C-4051-B718-847D8EECCDCA.jpeg.db8087af86064e1dbba0dca16fb8066a.jpeg

I also made a tool from a security bolt. 
It aloud me to wind all the nipples onto the spokes to exactly the same depth. As the spoke came through it hit the pin and pushed the blades out. From there I was able to sit it on the hub and go around all the spokes evenly while having a gauge on the outer rim to keep it true. C47F73CD-91D6-4A6E-8160-B72198BC5509.thumb.jpeg.68038ce95dbc1e957d0ece1bab3998d2.jpeg
the first wheel took me about 3 hours and the rest took me about 2 hours each. It’s been a great experience to lace the wheels up and I’m happy I did it. 
Now tyres tyres tyres. I need them!!!

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5 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

If I the airline will consider them carry on I will deliver them?

 

It the overhead or under the seat in front of you.

If you are traveling with someone else you would make a good show walking down the aisle carrying tires.

 

I was talking to one of the crew at the Havana airport and he says he has lots of stories of visiting relatives from the states bringing all sorts of car parts to Cuba.

Including transmissions and rear ends among many other quite heavy parts. He didn't mention tires but wouldn't surprise me.

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5 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

If I the airline will consider them carry on I will deliver them?

Whitewalls would make a nice necklace. Apparently they are on the wharf but the container needs to be fumigated because of a stink bug. 🤷🏽

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Matt, Back to your wire wheel restorations.  Did Steve need one of your old rims to match or did he already have patterns?  Did Steve also drill and dimple the new rims for you?  Who did you source your SS spokes from?  Did you polish the spokes before installing them?  I had not thought of building a "jig" using a complete wheel as a pattern....novel idea!  Now for a couple of detail questions.  How tight did you snug the nipples to on final adjustment?  What methodology did you use to spin the wheel and verify your run-out and then correct as needed?  As you can tell, I have a set of wheels I would like to embark on a similar restoration path as you have just completed.

Al

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Matt, Back to your wire wheel restorations.  Did Steve need one of your old rims to match or did he already have patterns?  Did Steve also drill and dimple the new rims for you?  Who did you source your SS spokes from?  Did you polish the spokes before installing them?  I had not thought of building a "jig" using a complete wheel as a pattern....novel idea!  Now for a couple of detail questions.  How tight did you snug the nipples to on final adjustment?  What methodology did you use to spin the wheel and verify your run-out and then correct as needed?  As you can tell, I have a set of wheels I would like to embark on a similar restoration path as you have just completed.

Al

Hi Al

Steve has a pattern for the victory wheels but we did send a complete wheel up there for him. He did prefer that but I’m sure he’d work it out ok. 
I got my ss spokes from Bruce in campbellfield. He has a motorcycle wheel shop. My spokes are the same as on a Harley Davison. But are identical to the original. I can send you his details if you like. 
I’m just using a 7mm spanner and once I have it running true I just went around and tightened each spoke 1/4 of a turn at a time. Starting at the valve for reference. 
Im guessing I’ve got them at around 10lb hard to say exactly. Just a firm turn on the spanner. 
Getting them adjusted I just put my finger on the spot that’s closest to my stick on the drum backing plate while turning them and then adjust the spoke at my finger and the go 3-4 spokes either side tightening each one a little Less either side of the first. Does that even make any sense!! I hope you can understand what I mean. I found the short spoke seem to adjust the round and the long spokes adjust the run out side to side. 
Hope that helps. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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7 hours ago, JACK M said:

 

It the overhead or under the seat in front of you.

If you are traveling with someone else you would make a good show walking down the aisle carrying tires.

 

I was talking to one of the crew at the Havana airport and he says he has lots of stories of visiting relatives from the states bringing all sorts of car parts to Cuba.

Including transmissions and rear ends among many other quite heavy parts. He didn't mention tires but wouldn't surprise me.

You could put the tyres in the centre seat and say you are being proactive on social distancing .

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8 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Whitewalls would make a nice necklace. Apparently they are on the wharf but the container needs to be fumigated because of a stink bug. 🤷🏽

WHITEWALLS? If you need more stink bugs I can send you some, we have plenty.

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Fitted up my newly refurbished generator this morning,  thank you to Rich for doing such a great job of that for me. You brought it up like new mate. 
 

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10 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

Fitted up my newly refurbished generator this morning,  thank you to Rich for doing such a great job of that for me. You brought it up like new mate. 
 

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Name plate is on its way which should finish it off nicely:)

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Ive been tackling my radiator surround trying to nickel plate it. I can say it’s been very challenging to get it right. The first nickel coat is going well and as normal but getting full coverage of the copper coat is proving difficult. I have reconfigured my tanks a bit to make it fit a little better. My attempt last night I almost had it right but just had one little bit bugger up. I’ll keep trying to get it right, it’s pretty much the last part to plate other than my lock rings which are half done and they have been relatively easy in comparison. New steel is so nice to plate these are actually the first time I’ve done some nice new stuff. 
some pics of preparation on the radiator surround, the bottom 8” is basically new she was in pretty bad shape. 

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2 hours ago, Ted Levitt said:

amazing workmanship as normal

Haha thanks Ted, not so amazing at the moment this surround is testing me. I’m back to square one at the moment but I’ll keep trying until I get it. 👍

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Posted (edited)

I nickel plated my ring today “ I mean rings “!! Sorry bad joke. 
I have only given them a good coat of nickel and not copper to try stop them from chipping with pry bars and things     
They have come up nice enough I think without being to highly polished. 1C88316D-FB73-4058-AA82-EAE10E93350A.thumb.jpeg.c30d5c5ddc39840276b726338534d333.jpeg

I think I’m on the right track with my radiator but I’m not 100% on that yet. Tomorrow will tell the story. It’s looking a little more promising from this morning. 8B93BE48-08C1-4777-A36C-53F20E304266.thumb.jpeg.fd8b5f786b1f6cf578871b71a6afbb61.jpeg
Nickle coat looks to of gone on ok. 

Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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So I learnt quite a few lessons and tricks nickel plating this weekend. I want to share my trouble I had in the hope it may help someone down the track. Doing a radiator surround is definitely pushing the envelope with the plating equipment I have but I wanted to give it a shot. All my troubles have been my own doing but that’s how you “I” learn. I set up my new tanks with anodes vertically in each corner which is pretty much how you would do it with a normal small tank or bucket. 
When I was doing my nickel coat it looked to have good coverage, I thought. Because of my tank set up the face of radiator surround was facing down or on a slight angle in the tank. This is ok if you have the anodes positioned properly which I didn’t at the start. 
So when I was doing my copper coat I was getting patches that weren’t coating. I was thinking this problem was in my copper tank because the nickel coat looked good. But it ended up being my nickel tank that was the problem. It was leaving patches uncoated or only just coated. 
So after a couple of days of trouble I thought I have to go back to the basics and work out where I’m going wrong. I figured out the nickel wasn’t attaching itself to the horizontal surface well enough so I change my anode set up from being vertical in baskets to attaching them to a stainless steel horizontal strip along the length of the tank and hard on the bottom corner.

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Anodes before being sat in the bottom of the tank. 

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This then allowed the nickel to attach itself to the horizontal surface facing downwards in the tank. 
If I had figured this out earlier all the grief I’ve had wouldn’t of happened but to be honest it has taught me quite a bit about the science of plating. I definitely won’t be using baskets in any of my tank set ups in the future. The even consistency I have now is so much better the ever before. Shame it was basically the last thing I had to plate. 
I had to turn the surround 4 times in the tank so in doing this I made sure my pumps were creating a lot of turbulence on the surface so it would feather the edges on the surface. 
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overlap of the final nickel coat, I moved this half way through the plating time to feather the surface line. 
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