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Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.


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After talking to Bob “our east coast  dodge encyclopaedia he feels the rings I have should be fine so I’ll go with them. He suggested to fit the rings with the larger gap to the top ring groove so I’ll do that. 
thanks Bob. 

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Posted (edited)

Pre fitted my new windshield posts that our fearless Aussie leader Dodge’y Stu cast up for me. Did a bloody beautiful job of them for me by the way. 
now that I’ve fitted them I’ll clean them up and nickel plate them. 
Also got my front guards painted this morning and will give them a wet rub and polish tomorrow. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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Hi mate I can't see by your photographs weather you have the dash board in or not. I wired mine all up before I fitted the body to the chassis as it is easier to stand up under the dash to wire the instrument cluster than laying on your back with a pair of pliers digging into your shoulder.

She sure is looking fantastic by the way  I envy your skills  

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Hi mate I can't see by your photographs weather you have the dash board in or not. I wired mine all up before I fitted the body to the chassis as it is easier to stand up under the dash to wire the instrument cluster than laying on your back with a pair of pliers digging into your shoulder.

She sure is looking fantastic by the way  I envy your skills  

Yer will be definitely doing that Ron. 
it’s been so much easier fitting up that cowl with it of the chassis. 
Cheers Ron but I must say your not to bad yourself mate. 

Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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That would give a jellyfish a horn that ass. 
Dodge and budd just nailed the design of the roadster didn’t they. I don’t think you could do anything to improve them. 
oh! the rumble seat is in and fitted, I got carried away just sitting there looking at it. 🤣

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1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:

That would give a jellyfish a horn that ass. 
Dodge and budd just nailed the design of the roadster didn’t they. I don’t think you could do anything to improve them. 
oh! the rumble seat is in and fitted, I got carried away just sitting there looking at it. 🤣

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Thats a nice looking rear end Don't tell the wife that I've been perving on your girl

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Got my dashboard panel and cluster fitted in after work. Just need to wire it all up now. Not much wiring to do. 
I’ve inlaid my little dodge wings I got from Spain. They were about 5 times smaller than I thought but they ended up costing a fortune to post so I had to put them somewhere. Spain customs weren’t going to release them because they believed they were an expensive antique and shouldn’t leave the country. 646C6387-CB2D-474F-A8DC-CDB0914DEE5D.jpeg.d785dfe64193a01d9a73454494e8e994.jpeg

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1 hour ago, alsfarms said:

What is the kinship between the Victory 6 engine and the later mid 30's Dodge and Plymouth engines of very near the same size?

That I can’t tell you because I don’t know enough about the engines or anything much after the 30’s cars to be honest. 

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The 208ci Dodge brothers engine compared to later Chrysler designed engines have some similarities. The 208 is 25” long like the “big” Chrysler motors that came after them, (vs the 23” motors). The 25” Chrysler motor also had the same size rod and wrist pin dia as the 208”. Not much is the same after that. The Dodge  Brothers motor is a seven main bearing motor where the later Chrysler designed motors were four main. Oiling systems were different also. On the 208” oil goes from the main gallery to  the main bearings, rods ,then to camshaft bearings. On the Chrysler motors it goes from the main gallery splits going to the mains and camshaft and from the mains to the rods. I like the 208 system better. The 208 has six bolts holding the flywheel on the Chrysler has four. The bore on the 208” is 3 3/8” same as some Chrysler motors but the pin height is different. Now it does look like Chrysler kept the plans for the 208 Dodge Brothers engine and scaled it up when they needed a real heavy duty truck engine. Because  if you look at the plans for the Chrysler 331 and 413 flat head six truck motors there very similar in layout just MUCH bigger. 

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I have a stock 1937 DeSoto Coupe with the original DeSoto engine, but I have also located a 265 CID straight 6 Chrysler engine to use as a donor to build for a replacement in the coupe.  The 265, I understand, is the big boy of the 25" Chrysler engine series and has some good twist.  The 208 was a formidable engine in its day!

Al 

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Hi Matt

Just wondering did you do the wood grain on the dash yourself or did you farm it out. It looks great, I have a bit to do on one of my cars eventually and have been considering having a go at it myself.

Cheers Ben

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6 hours ago, Vintageben said:

Hi Matt

Just wondering did you do the wood grain on the dash yourself or did you farm it out. It looks great, I have a bit to do on one of my cars eventually and have been considering having a go at it myself.

Cheers Ben

Gidday Ben yes mate I did that myself. I’ve had an 8x4 sheet of burl walnut sitting in my garage for about 20 years carting it with me everywhere. It cost $1000 a sheet back then so it wasn’t going to be thrown away. 
I used a bit of 1.6mm alloy first and shaped it to the dash and then thicknesses my burl down to about 2mm and stuck it to the alloy sheet. I sand blasted the alloy to make sure it would stick ok. 
then gave it about 10 coats of automotive 2pak clear. It’s been nice to actually use the stuff finally. 

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Got all my shocky’s rebuilt. I’ve been putting off doing them for quite a while imagining they we’re going to be painful to pull apart. But to my surprise they came apart beautifully without any problems at all. Got all the gunk out cleaned them up gave them a light hone and re assembled them. Fitted a new modern seal in the end

 7/8x 1” 3/8 x1/4. 
Filled them with oil and they all seem to work perfectly. All have similar resistance on the arm. 

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On 1/14/2021 at 5:47 PM, Mattml430 said:

Got all my shocky’s rebuilt. I’ve been putting off doing them for quite a while imagining they we’re going to be painful to pull apart. But to my surprise they came apart beautifully without any problems at all. Got all the gunk out cleaned them up gave them a light hone and re assembled them. Fitted a new modern seal in the end

 7/8x 1” 3/8 x1/4. 
Filled them with oil and they all seem to work perfectly. All have similar resistance on the arm. 

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Matt In reply to our chat on the phone every one has used shock absorber oil and the question about how much varies from covering the piston to full right up I would say about 1/4 inch down from the top would be okay

 

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1 hour ago, Ron Lawson said:

Matt In reply to our chat on the phone every one has used shock absorber oil and the question about how much varies from covering the piston to full right up I would say about 1/4 inch down from the top would be okay

 

Great thanks Ron. I’ll get some of the penrite stuff we were talking about. 
you were correct also about the brake cylinder cups. They are all buggered so I’m replacing them also. I should of just left them dry in there. Nevermind it will give me the opportunity to use the pliers Rich bought for me 😂👍

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So I’m thinking of fitting a breather to the shocks as they are prone to leaking. I’m thinking of an air tool exhaust type breather because I imagine they get quite warm on a rough road. With nowhere to breathe as they are, the oil will come out the seal. I think I will loose a little bit of oil out the breather but hopefully not through the seal. 
this photo is a 1/8 breather I’m thinking of. 
what do you guys think ?

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5 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

So I’m thinking of fitting a breather to the shocks as they are prone to leaking. I’m thinking of an air tool exhaust type breather because I imagine they get quite warm on a rough road. With nowhere to breathe as they are, the oil will come out the seal. I think I will loose a little bit of oil out the breather but hopefully not through the seal. 
this photo is a 1/8 breather I’m thinking of. 
what do you guys think ?

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Recon it will work - gotta be better through a filter than the seals.  When I converted my diff seals Bob said you Brad to add a breather and to put a small hole in one of the rear cover bolts (at the top).  I thought it would get some mist for sure not a thing:). Is there somewhere should can locate it where it won’t get direct oil splashing?

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44 minutes ago, RichBad said:

Recon it will work - gotta be better through a filter than the seals.  When I converted my diff seals Bob said you Brad to add a breather and to put a small hole in one of the rear cover bolts (at the top).  I thought it would get some mist for sure not a thing:). Is there somewhere should can locate it where it won’t get direct oil splashing?

I can really only mount it in the centre of the top cover. That will make it probably around 3/4 of an inch above the oil level if I go with Ron’s recommendation of having it about 1/4 below full. 
can only give it a go and if it doesn’t work I’ll just plug it. 
I put my diff breather in the same spot you did. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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12 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

I can really only mount it in the centre of the top cover. That will make it probably around 3/4 of an inch above the oil level if I go with Ron’s recommendation of having it about 1/4 below full. 
can only give it a go and if it doesn’t work I’ll just plug it. 
I put my diff breather in the same spot you did. 

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Not sure if it would be possible but you could put a full gasket across and cut a few smaller holes on the opposite side from the breather - that way the oil can’t splash directly into the breather.  Not sure if it would be possible to have a gasket going all the way across though?

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6 hours ago, RichBad said:

Not sure if it would be possible but you could put a full gasket across and cut a few smaller holes on the opposite side from the breather - that way the oil can’t splash directly into the breather.  Not sure if it would be possible to have a gasket going all the way across though?

That would be perfect but the little knee action joint comes up into the space either side in that top plate. 
If I used a thin rubber gasket all the way across with a couple of holes that could work. It would then just push on the rubber 👍

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Shock’s are in and I’ll adjust the straps later on. I need to make some wedges for the bottom fixing. I think I’ll try make something that won’t fall out if they snap. 
The breather thing will be a good experiment to see how they go. 
If they leak badly I’ll try the rubber gasket idea Rich. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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So I was laying in bed this morning at 4;30 thinking that what I’ve done with the breathers might be a mistake. It’s quite possibly going to let the oil airrate and turn into a froth ball coming out the top. I might get some 1/8 plugs just in case. 

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Ron “(the birthday boy today)” sent me some bloody beautiful brackets for my wind wings. With a little bit of adjustment they fit almost perfectly to my posts. I gave them a little polish and I’ll stick them in the Nickle plating tomorrow. I’ll order some glass for them and get it toughened and beveled edges on it. 

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Hi! Matt just spoke to Ron and wish him a happy birthday. Told him to take it easy ,now that he is a old fart! Can't tell you on the the forum his answer! 

You beat me to the brackets, they would have look good on my 27 roadster. But they also look great on your Victory! You have them fitting neatly on the post and once plated they will be prefect! Keep up the good work! Terry

 

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8 hours ago, John McEwan said:

I used acrylic for my wind wings. Clearer than glass, much lighter and best of all much, much cheaper.5D6FE92A-223D-40D7-8CC4-7E7937F36382.thumb.jpeg.76598f01b8f30737795ea869648abca7.jpeg

 

 

7 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Hey Matt they cave come up a treat, Sorry Tez If I had have known that you was a lookin. Matt as John stated Acrylic is a good way to go 

I’ve already dropped the template into the glass guys. I’m getting beveled edges on it and then toughened. 
I just think the beveled edges look really nice. I might end up with 2 spares because they have a minimum charge for bevelling.  
They came out beautiful,  thanks so much for them Ron your a bloody legend. 

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Made a start back on my engine rebuild this morning with fitting my lifters and went to fit the valves,  The brand new valves I bought to suit my engine have different valve collet mounts. So it all came to a grinding halt again. My new rings and c clips should be here on Monday. Seems people just sell shit saying it’s for our engines and cars without a hole lot of research. This is the third time I’ve been held up because of wrong parts. Never mind I guess. 
so I went on with my upper and lower radiator panels. These are tricky little things to make as simple as they look. After a couple of attempts I got them close enough to original I think. Not a perfect match but pretty close for what they are. 

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49 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

Made a start back on my engine rebuild this morning with fitting my lifters and went to fit the valves,  The brand new valves I bought to suit my engine have different valve collet mounts. So it all came to a grinding halt again. My new rings and c clips should be here on Monday. Seems people just sell shit saying it’s for our engines and cars without a hole lot of research. This is the third time I’ve been held up because of wrong parts. Never mind I guess. 
so I went on with my upper and lower radiator panels. These are tricky little things to make as simple as they look. After a couple of attempts I got them close enough to original I think. Not a perfect match but pretty close for what they are. 

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Sorry fir the problems but it will all work out. The radiator panels look great my friend. 

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