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Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.


Mattml430

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Hi! Matt

You did the right thing sending it to Bob!  He rebuilt  mine on the 1928 Senior after another radiator shop  totally stuffed up!.  He did a great job bring back to the original condition , very happy and had no more trouble with over heating !  Terry

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12 hours ago, aunty norm said:

Hi! Matt

You did the right thing sending it to Bob!  He rebuilt  mine on the 1928 Senior after another radiator shop  totally stuffed up!.  He did a great job bring back to the original condition , very happy and had no more trouble with over heating !  Terry

Yes I’m definitely glad bob is doing it. Packed it all in a crate today ready to drop it off to transport. 

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Front bearing carrier came apart with ease this morning after a Bit of cooking, and  a good soaking in thinners and oil overnight. New bearing will be in tomorrow and I’ll get the diff all back together. 
Also machined the inner crown nut to take a modern type seal. 
Thanks Rich for your advice and help with that. 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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Great!

I think you need a little Pre-load on the pinion bearings.  I’m not sure how that is set on your version - on mine it was a case of take up the slack and then one extra flat on the nut. Perhaps just a case of one or two of the “notches”?  I’m sure someone on here would know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my diff all back together and painted. Feels good to get the first bit of real painting done. 
pulled my springs to pieces and sand blasted them all reasonably clean. I’m going to try and paint them in satin black 2pak before I assemble them and grease between them. I know I’m not supposed to paint them but I’m hoping with it being 2pak and greased in between each leaf they will still slide together ok. Be a good experiment. I have rounded the ends of each leaf to stop a bit of the wear on them.  Only found one broken Leah on the front springs. 
Bushes are pretty new but I’ll replace them anyway while they’re off. 
 

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Front axle is next on the list , king pins are great but I’d like to replace the tie rod ends. Does anyone know of a modern day tie rod that can be used on the victory six. I don’t mind adapting things a little to make it work. Even better can we get the original size anywhere? 

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Looks good Matt!  When I got my springs done the guy said not to grease them - he said it takes away all the natural friction (which works a bit like a damper) and can also result in them being stressed at certain points.  Not sure how true that is as I’ve seen springs greased but perhaps it depends if they were designed for it or not?

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4 hours ago, RichBad said:

Not sure how true that is as I’ve seen springs greased but perhaps it depends if they were designed for it or not?

I don't recall ever seeing leaf springs greased from the factory. Mine were rusty so diesel fuel was sprayed on them but that's all they are getting and only once. 

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So today when I was machining my bearing carriers on the diff I could not get them to run centre no matter what I did. I held them in the lathe from the outside and also on the inside. They ran out by a good half millimeter or so. Luckily I had some spares and tried them and they ran true as. So it makes me think something has happened to the bearing carrier’s at some stage it was a bit weird. Both were the same. 
Anyway I got the outer seal in and the diff almost back together. 

 

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That’s a bit strange - I wonder if the mounting between them and the diff was offcentre and they were matched to the diff?  I wouldn’t have thought so though.

 

Does it feel good - did the end play come up ok?

 

looks real good and I’m envious of the hydraulic brakes:)

 

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5 hours ago, RichBad said:

That’s a bit strange - I wonder if the mounting between them and the diff was offcentre and they were matched to the diff?  I wouldn’t have thought so though.

 

Does it feel good - did the end play come up ok?

 

looks real good and I’m envious of the hydraulic brakes:)

 

Yer mate I ended up with 2 shims on each side and it feels beautiful. The brakes should be nice as I’ve machined all the drums as well so they should be like new. 
The carriers being out is weird because they are machined originally so beats me. 
it is hard getting out of the victory and then into the 27. The victory is such a nice car to drive. 

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Got back into doing a bit of nickel plating this week but had a hell of a time trying to get the nickel to stick after the copper coat. As soon as I went to polish it, it was peeling up. I called our Dodgy brother Dodgy Stu for a bit of advice and he suggested cleaning it a bit better after polishing the copper. He put me onto using a cream cleaner called Jif for your bathroom and I have to say it’s changed the quality of my plating 10fold , I’m so thankful for Stu’s help it’s been great. 
some pics of my fails and fixes after better cleaning. 
 

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Springs are all back together with nice new bronze bushes. I’ve put the slightest bit of graphite grease between each leaf so it will be interesting to see how it rides. 
 

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With the long weekend here in Oz I spent many hours repairing my hubcaps. The poor bloody things were basically inverted other than a couple of them , but on the other hand I should be very grateful that the car came with 5. I only had to chase up one which was a recasting of an original. 
With a lot of pressing in and out and back in again they cam up really well considering. The DB logo had been completely bash out of them so I’m thinking I’ll get a vinyl stencil made up and paint the background black and peel the DB off to leave the nickel DB logo. There’s not much else I can do. 
They are all polished up ready for nickel plating. 
Here is some before, during and after of them. 
 

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On 11/28/2019 at 4:28 PM, keiser31 said:

There is also a gentleman by the name of Ted Levitt who owns one that came from this area....here it is next to one of my Dodge coupes.

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I purchassed that 28 victory Six from Niles Thomas and still have it. Pic below is with Niles when I got the car, It still runs great, Love the car.  I also have a few other Dodge Brothers cars.  I am getting close to finishing a 1928 Phantom I Rolls Rolls Royce and then will start a complete restoration on my 1928 Dodge Brothers 5 Window coupe, I am hoping to come close to what you are doing and what Bill Gess has done. You do Great Work.  Just found your blog thanks to Doug Walters.  Looking forward to following your progress.  Thanks for Sharing...

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Edited by Ted Levitt (see edit history)
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Hi Ted

Thank you , the roadster looks great and very original. And the Rolls, well WOW!! what a magnificent car that is, it’s just beautiful. Bill and Dale have been very helpful to me with a few things I needed to know and also John in NZ. Looking at the Rolls Ted I’m positive the coupe will be a beautiful restoration also. Thanks for sharing. 
 

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I got an update on my radiator progress from Bob at sunshine batteries and radiators today. He sent me a few pics and I’m pretty excited about how it’s looking. Sad that a radiator can excite us so much. Hahaha. Me anyway!! 
He’s doing an absolutely beautiful job of it I’m so glad I sent it there now. It’s going to be so nice to know that the cooling system is brand new. Getting the crank hole well underway. 
 

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7 minutes ago, RichBad said:

Beautiful mate - I want to get mine done now just for the sake of it:)

I’m just hoping Jude doesn’t mind having it in the lounge room for the next few months until I need it. Lol 😂 

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Got all my steering box ready for re assembly as soon as my new bushes come in. The steering shaft didn’t have the original steering wheel on it and they had welded a different spline on the end. So luckily I had a spare complete steering wheel and box. I was able to cut the top of and reweld it to my original one. The box on the roadster was still in great condition considering. 
made a new polished stainless steel outer column and wire cover to save a bit of time instead of nickel plating the old one. 

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Looking good Matt Are you putting a seal in the bottom of the box where the control rods exit? also on the sector shaft ? I have done it on mine and guess what No Leaks  The outer column looks great Was it nickel plated originally? My Senior one is painted 

 

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Looks identical to mine Matt but I bet your sector gears are in better shape:). I put a needle roller on my output shaft as well as a roller thrust bearing (instead of the fibre? Thrust washer) also put a seal on the input and output shafts and where the control rods come out the end.  Made it lovely and smooth but mine was in pretty bad shape to start.  I think there’s some photos on my  resto thread but can text some over too.  Bit of an order to the set up too - you’ll probably find it easy - I think it was main shaft endfloat first, then sector shaft thrust endfloat then set the sector engagement - a combination of the offset screw at the bottom and the offset nut at the top - I think I may have some instructions somewhere.

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7 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Looking good Matt Are you putting a seal in the bottom of the box where the control rods exit? also on the sector shaft ? I have done it on mine and guess what No Leaks  The outer column looks great Was it nickel plated originally? My Senior one is painted 

 

Yes I’ve ordered the bottom seal with the new bushes. 
The steering column in the sports roadster was nickel plated. Also with the gear selector. 
 

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7 hours ago, RichBad said:

Looks identical to mine Matt but I bet your sector gears are in better shape:). I put a needle roller on my output shaft as well as a roller thrust bearing (instead of the fibre? Thrust washer) also put a seal on the input and output shafts and where the control rods come out the end.  Made it lovely and smooth but mine was in pretty bad shape to start.  I think there’s some photos on my  resto thread but can text some over too.  Bit of an order to the set up too - you’ll probably find it easy - I think it was main shaft endfloat first, then sector shaft thrust endfloat then set the sector engagement - a combination of the offset screw at the bottom and the offset nut at the top - I think I may have some instructions somewhere.

That sounds nice Rich it would make a huge difference. My bottom thrust bearing is in great condition and the output shaft has almost no wear on the outside surface but a small amount of wear on the inside surface. There has been some repair done on the output shaft gear at some point but seems to of been a good job so im leaving it be there. 
I’ll use the bronze bushes this time around Because of the lack of wear on the shaft but roller bearings would be nice. 
Thank for those instructions I’ll also have a look in that book you gave me I’m sure it will be in there. 

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Made a start on the body today. I was supposed to be working but got a little carried away. 
fitted the rear tub back on the chassis and startEd with a new rear bottom panel to help me line it up properly with the doors. Quite a bit of work to be done on the inner guards but now I have my height worked out I can do them. 

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My front axle and brakes are all back together and ready to go back on once the chassis is painted. Also rebuilt my Carter BB1 carburettor today. It’s been soaking in Deisel and petrol for a week and it came apart quite well with a bit of heat from a heat gun. There was a few bits in there that were stuck fast. They all came apart and cleaned up nicely. 
The Bush I’d been waiting on for my steering box turned up and it’s all back together and ready for painting. Feels very smooth from lock to lock with a tiny bit of firmness rite in the middle of lock to lock. I’ll adjust it more once on the car. 
 

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Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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Bob sent me some updates on my radiator today . I got a well deserved dressing down for linishing the top and bottom tanks while cleaning them up. Hahaha!! I won’t do that again I made his work a bit harder by making the brass tanks a bit thinner than they should be. Luckily for me he fixed it all up. 
He’s doing a beautiful job of it. 
 

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