dl456

1922 6 Cylinder

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Hello all,

I have been following the thread on the 22 engine build. Very interesting and informative thread.

I have a 22  that unfortunately has a crack in the water jacket in the cylinder block. We will eventually restore this car 

but have a couple of projects to finish first. 

It may be repairable, but to expand my options what year of engines would be the same? 

Anyone know of a parts engine or a good cylinder ?

I have had the engine running for short periods and it runs good with no unusual noises.

Thanks,

Dennis

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The are many vintage cars with freeze cracked blocks, not all are fatal. Severity and location is important. I have used radiator stop leak successfully to play and have fun until ready to do a thorough teardown and repair.  Cracks that could put coolant into crankcase oil is quite a bit riskier but I can assure you people still run them with careful observation. Show us some photos.

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Hello Ray,

I also don't believe this crack is "fatal". It is in the bottom of the water jacket on the drivers side in an area that

I am sure the casting is somewhat thin.

Just testing the waters in order to make a decision (repair or replace).

I would like to weigh all my options. That's why I would like to know compatibility of the cylinder blocks through the years and if any are available.

Obviously, if they are extremely scarce, I only have the one option.

I'll get some photos this weekend.

Thanks,

Dennis

 

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Dennis,

    As long as you are patient, there will be opportunities to buy a replacement parts engine.  However, you might want to contact Terry Wiegand about the company that plug sealed the crack in his engine.  

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I sold a cylinder block from a 242 engine to Tom Black, from a 1918. He only used the valves from it, he probably still has the jugs. I can't find his name on here.

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Mark,

I have plenty of time. I have two projects currently. They won't be done until summer 20 or thereabouts.

Morgan,

Is the 18 the same? I believe they have a hole between the jugs and this one is solid.

Is there a date  range where these cylinder blocks would be the same?

This is my first pre war Buick. Please educate me.

Thanks,

Dennis 

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Dennis,

The cylinder block on the 1918 six-cylinder engine is one solid casting with no breaks between #2 and 3 and #4 and 5 cylinders.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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1918 has a different part number than 19-22. Don't know the difference.

 

Master Parts only lists "cylinder block assembly" not the block itself. Maybe the only difference is in the "assembly" parts

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Thanks guys,

So it looks like 19-22 and maybe 18?

I have welded a lot of cast iron with success but it seems like "stitching" is the preferred method.

Years ago when I worked in the welding shop, we had a heat treating oven to bring the temp. up, weld and then cool slowly overnight.

I don' t have that capability now.

Terry,

When Mark mentioned "plug sealed" was he referring to stitching? Are you happy with the repair?  (Edit: Found the thread. You Buick guys are awesome!)

 

Thanks,

Dennis

Edited by dl456
found the thread (see edit history)

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Did some research and found the difference between '18 and 19-22 is the top of the jugs has rim for the valve cover, and studs to hold the valve cover on.

 

The '18 has no valve cover.

.

.

Edited by Morgan Wright (see edit history)

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Thanks Morgan,

That makes sense. You said 19-21. Is 22 different than these?

Dennis

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Is this is the 1922-54 from the Virginia museum auction? I will look up my contacts from when I tried to buy a 1923 model 55 from a family in Arizona. The deal included a 1922 6 cyl parts car. Even though many parts do not interchange with 23. But if I wanted the 23-55 the pile of parts was to go also. I believe a torn down engine was in with it. The car and parts car was sold locally and so I should still have the contact info for the new owners.

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Larry,

That is the car from Roaring Twenties. We believe it to be a 22 - 54 sport roadster. It has Houk wires, 124" wheelbase and a clock built into the speedometer.

It's a fairly honest car with a few warts.

I would be interested in the parts motor should you come across the contact info.

Thanks,

Dennis

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Hello all,

I have another question.

I bought this car with the shifter locked in neutral and no key. I believe I could pick this cylinder but it would be nice to know if the cylinder rotated

clockwise or counter clockwise to unlock. 

My books showed a Briggs key blank number but it does not fit the keyway. I have a Yale blank that fits the ignition but won't fit the shifter.

Anybody know the key blank numbers? Should the shifter and the ignition switch be the same key?

Should I just go ahead and pull the shift tower and remove the cylinder? Any advice?

Obviously I'm not going anywhere too soon but would like to see if the car shifts through the gears.

Thanks,

Dennis 

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Dennis,

Take the Letter and 3 digits off the key tumbler on the transmission.  Contact Jessersclassickeys.com They can cut a new key on an original Yale key blank. 

image.png.7f0186dc49958120d3f2cfe5da36d521.png

Once the key is installed, I had to use a fair amount of penetrating oil and keep working the key back and forth until the lock finally turned.  There is a slotted screw in the side of the transmission.  If this is removed, the Lock cylinder can be removed.     Hugh

 

image.png.6e31e6cbf3239e0a520ed23f4fcad32e.png

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Thanks for the reply Hugh,

I'll look for the screw. I looked for the letter and numbers and they are non-existent or at least not legible.

My cylinder is in the side of the shift tower.

Do you know if the cylinder will come out with the screw removed in the locked state?

Thanks again,

Dennis

 

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Dennis,

 Even if you remove the screw from the side, that will not free the lock cylinder.  The slot in the lock barrel fits with the screw.  That just limits the up and down motion of the lock plunger so that you can remove the lock or not raise the lock assembly too far during normal usage. 

I would talk to a lock smith to see if they could get the lock to turn first.  If you had to drill the lock, you would go in thru one of the 2 holes on the back side of the casting that have plugs.  The lower hole is the hole that locks it in the neutral position.  The upper hole prevents the lock from going into the transmission so you can remove the key. 

Consider also taking the top off the transmission if you had to, so that you could send it to a lock smith that could get the tumbler to spin.  Drilling out the lock would be my last resort. 

Please let us know if a locksmith can pick this lock and get it to spin.

Hugh

 

936992714_Lockoperation-1925Buick.thumb.JPG.2e47519be2d06166bb23751ae4716aa2.JPG

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Dennis:

 I found the contact information for the 1922 parts pile I mentioned in AZ. In case he may have a block. I will send a PM.

Photos of what was in the pile.

1983065352_parts1.png.254a45d03d1bf2c194351fae910db2ae.png

456902870_parts2.png.86d3af7375f7b5adcf6d90249c13e180.png

272665751_parts3.png.f09b3ce781a04a849fd20909bf6d14ae.png

904985143_parts4.png.518d053367805600972029bb0caa07b1.png

1797554233_parts5.png.de5dc4e1b1fa0d993d78e16b23386ebd.png

 

1653181853_parts6.png.c2dbc9d7166a4fe578f12a841a0a3041.png

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For some reason the forum will not let me edit or post more than one PM per day.

 The contact persons first name is Bruce not Dave.

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Larry,

Thanks for the PM . I will follow up and let you know.

Hugh,

Thanks for the pictures . Much better than going in blind.

Hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Dennis

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