Sign in to follow this  
Timmy R

11B Choke Cable and Service Brake Issue

Recommended Posts

Hi all, wondering if someone can help me with two questions:

 

- Working on my 1927 11B and trying to get the light switch cluster out to see if I can fix the headlight switch.  Although I unscrewed the choke cable from the dash light cluster, I don't see how to separate the cable from the pull button itself.  any ideas?

 

- When I start to brake over about 15mph the service brake chatters pretty bad.  From what I have read on the Franklin website this can typically be caused by an issue with the pads or with the drive shaft needing adjustment. I can't find a detail procedure of how to actually do the drive shaft adjustment because I think the pads look good?

 

Thanks, 

Tim

Clarksburg NJ

Franklin Light Cluster 2.jpg

Franklin Light Cluster 1.jpg

Franklin Front Drive Shaft.jpg

Franklin Brake Shoes 5.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Disconnect the choke wire at the carburetor and slide it completely out of it's tube at the panel end. Then you can remove the panel. 

 

There is no "adjustment" to the driveshaft. Check that the flange bolts are tight.  then grease the u-joints with heavy GL-5 grease. With the car in gear and the emergency brake on, try to rotate the drive shaft back and forth by hand and check for looseness in the u-joints and their flanges.   The u-joints may be out of alignment. Check that the arrows stamped on the splined end of the drive shaft line up with each other. 

 

There are a few things that can cause band brake chatter. 

1. Worn/loose pivot points in the brake linkage.

2.An overheated drum that shows hardened burned spots. Look for dark blue areas on the drum surface. Scuff them clean to bright metal.   

3. Or the drum is warped. If you have a dial indicator, set it up against the drum's friction surface. rotate the drum and check to see that the drum is not warped out of round, or wobbles. 

4. The brake lining looks badly glazed and I see rust on the drum. Try scuffing both clean with emery cloth, then wash the lining with brake clean or lacquer thinner. Let it dry and then try braking with it again to see if that takes care of the chatter.

5. Sometimes the softer woven asbestos linings were not installed properly to compress the weave enough.

6. Wrong lining? Some types/brands of asbestos woven linings were prone to causing chatter if used in that type application.  

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your welcome Timmy.

 

One more thing.

When you reinstall the band, make sure that the flat support springs keep it from touching the drum when the foot pedal is all the way up. It only needs a hair-width clearance, but it must not touch. If any part of the lining drags on the drum it can cause problems.  An out-of-round band from wear at the point it touches, can sometimes cause chatter.

 

And the band must be shaped perfectly round to fit the drum so that it grabs evenly over it's entire length as pedal pressure is applied, and not more pressure in some spots than others.

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it shakes the car uncomfortably, it is probably none of the above although it is good to do all the things Paul suggests.  The shaking can be eliminated by shimming the transmission's rear main shaft bearing housing. 

Good luck getting the brake drum off, whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT ON THE BACK OF THE SHAFT while you try to remove the brake drum flange, it may come off the tapered shaft with explosive force.    

John 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this