yachtflame

Changing the top on a Stewart vacuum fuel tank

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I have a crack in the large fitting on the pot metal lid of a Stewart vacuum fuel tank. While at Hershey, I bought a new lid and am trying to swap the guts. All has gone fine until

i tried to remove the vent needle (the furthest outboard needle). The needle moves up and down easily and rotates easily but just won’t come out. 
 I’m wandering if some one in the group has successfully done this. This is conspiring to annoy me!

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

wayne

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Photos sent to your cell phone in higher res. Hope it helps..........

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It looks like the hourglass shaped part that engages with the linkage is swedged or soldered on to the shaft. What does the shaft look like from the top ? 

 

Greg in Canada

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I haven't changed the valves over, so can't help on that one, but, I had a top like yours, that had cracked down the side of where the fuel line screws into the top. I made a steel sleeve that was a nice push on fit, to go on the outside of the cracked part, fitted it on with locktite, and when the fuel pipe fitting was screwed into place, the sleeve stopped the crack from opening. It is still working on the car 35 years later.

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7 minutes ago, viv w said:

I haven't changed the valves over, so can't help on that one, but, I had a top like yours, that had cracked down the side of where the fuel line screws into the top. I made a steel sleeve that was a nice push on fit, to go on the outside of the cracked part, fitted it on with locktite, and when the fuel pipe fitting was screwed into place, the sleeve stopped the crack from opening. It is still working on the car 35 years later.

I had that problem 20 years ago and did the same thing with the same excellent results.  That crack happens from overtightening the fitting.  Be sure to use crushable copper washer(s) to prevent this.

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The crack happens because of the casting ,the only copper gasket use is on a bayonet fitting,all of the post May be correct,the bayonet was the only copper gasket.

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Turns out the crack was two sided and a 1/4 of the wall came off. I suppose I could epoxy it back in place and use the collar suggestions from above but I do have a nice new top.... might as well figure out how to use it.

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yaghtflame -

1. my first thought is I've used JB Weld successfully on Stewart tank bottoms to seal leaks. the one in the picture is JB Welded. I think it could work equally well on tops.

2. My second thought is to just buy another top "with the guts" off of ebay. Those are usually listed and either work or not.

RON

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It has been a long time but:

 

One seals down the other seals up.

 

The stuck one may have to be separated and removed upward.

 

 

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Hans1,

 That’s what I’m thinking. I have seen a 3 part replacement kit with the seat, shaft and a “cap” which I guess gets soldered on. I’m thinking that the vent needle is kinda important as a vacuum is needed to make the unit work correctly.

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I would be tempted to use my moto-dremmel tool and do some careful grinding on the old die cast to get the shaft out and then deal with the issue on the workbench under my terms. 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)

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