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babychadwick

Part 2 Rebuilding a factory coil for 12v -ground

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For those who might express an interest in operating their car 12v I can offer some advice.  The headlights and charging circuits naturally need to be changed.  This can be accomplished by operating and upgrading to LED bulbs.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-P30D-40W-CREE-LED-White-Headlight-High-Low-Beam-Light-Bulb-6V-24V-Motorcycle/223128660105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

drop right in but require negative ground.  Gauges will work on negative ground with a voltage reducer, even the radio will work so it is simply a bolt in upgrade.  A single wire alternator can be purchased and placed on a bracket by speedway motors.  Once again bolt on.

 

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-1938-1945-Flathead-Alternator-Bracket,4130.html

 

I have not torn apart an original coil as mine was rebuilt by Mr. Richman and after a failure after less than a year I am not content to continue to spend hundreds on having it "rebuilt" so forgive me if I don't go into the mess of cleaning out an original coil.  If someone would like to donate me 2 junk coils I will demonstrate the cleaning and setup starting with an old original delivering a rebuilt coil in 12v negative and keeping one for myself.  Other than that I am starting to work with one that has already been cleaned.  The first coils I will test are out of a jetski, these coils are small enough to completly fit inside the original housing and should be replaceable in the event of a failure.  

 

This process will take a while before it is concluded, part 3 will be the adaptation of a pertronix electronic ignition inside the factory distributor and when completed will give a visually original looking distributor.

 

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You should consider replacing the input capacitors on the radio, and reverse the polarity.  Worst problem is pulling the wire out of the ammeter and reversing direction  so will read charge and discharge correctly.  for the instruments, you can either build a solid state voltage reducer or use a 57 Ford vibrating regulator.  100 amp GM alternator with one wire works well with an adapter bracket for Ford you can also find on e-bay. 

then you don't need the regulator on the firewall.  Abe

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The radio is working on 6v negative ground.  The reducer I am using is a volt a drop.  The bracket from speedway works beautiful for the one wire alternator. The only complication is finding a wide enough pulley.  After putting it together I realized I should have used 2 pulleys and cut them in half and just put a washer inbetween the halves making a wider pulley.

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Check the aftermarket suppliers for pulleys, ebay, amazon also.  I've seen them at swap meets.  I got one from Grainger, but needed to modify mounting boss to make it work.  Then I converted the whole operation to serpentine belt.  When the input capacitors fail on the radio, you may experience more static.  They are likely bad anyway after 70 years. 

Abe

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im trying to come up with a way for someone to be able to do the work simple and in their home garage.  Slicing a pulley in half and adding washers is fairly easy so I suggested it.  I made the mistake of trying to widen mine on my little lathe and there just isn't enough metal there so soon I will be undertaking my own suggestion.  As far as the radio goes, a friend had it working and its mounted in the car but I'm missing some of the "bits" to physically mount the control head into the dash and speaker.  As much as it may sound like a crime I would like to run a multiple carb intake, finned aluminum heads and AC plumbed into the original ducts.  And then tour the car to various events for the speedster being towed behind on a lightweight open aluminum trailer.

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I opted to just pick up the alternator at my local store and when I ordered they wouldn't say whether or not it would fit the v12 so I was taking a gamble when I purchased it.  I also didn't think a pulley would be difficult, figuring I probably had one around as well.  Perhaps you would like to share a link with the complete setup?

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The link is correct now, go back to the original post that had the bad link, or Google Speedway Motors and search their catalog.

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