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babychadwick

Part 2 Rebuilding a factory coil for 12v -ground

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For those who might express an interest in operating their car 12v I can offer some advice.  The headlights and charging circuits naturally need to be changed.  This can be accomplished by operating and upgrading to LED bulbs.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-P30D-40W-CREE-LED-White-Headlight-High-Low-Beam-Light-Bulb-6V-24V-Motorcycle/223128660105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

drop right in but require negative ground.  Gauges will work on negative ground with a voltage reducer, even the radio will work so it is simply a bolt in upgrade.  A single wire alternator can be purchased and placed on a bracket by speedway motors.  Once again bolt on.

 

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-1938-1945-Flathead-Alternator-Bracket,4130.html

 

I have not torn apart an original coil as mine was rebuilt by Mr. Richman and after a failure after less than a year I am not content to continue to spend hundreds on having it "rebuilt" so forgive me if I don't go into the mess of cleaning out an original coil.  If someone would like to donate me 2 junk coils I will demonstrate the cleaning and setup starting with an old original delivering a rebuilt coil in 12v negative and keeping one for myself.  Other than that I am starting to work with one that has already been cleaned.  The first coils I will test are out of a jetski, these coils are small enough to completly fit inside the original housing and should be replaceable in the event of a failure.  

 

This process will take a while before it is concluded, part 3 will be the adaptation of a pertronix electronic ignition inside the factory distributor and when completed will give a visually original looking distributor.

 

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You should consider replacing the input capacitors on the radio, and reverse the polarity.  Worst problem is pulling the wire out of the ammeter and reversing direction  so will read charge and discharge correctly.  for the instruments, you can either build a solid state voltage reducer or use a 57 Ford vibrating regulator.  100 amp GM alternator with one wire works well with an adapter bracket for Ford you can also find on e-bay. 

then you don't need the regulator on the firewall.  Abe

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The radio is working on 6v negative ground.  The reducer I am using is a volt a drop.  The bracket from speedway works beautiful for the one wire alternator. The only complication is finding a wide enough pulley.  After putting it together I realized I should have used 2 pulleys and cut them in half and just put a washer inbetween the halves making a wider pulley.

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