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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


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6 hours ago, old-tank said:

Scotchbrite pads

there is a brush I am using in one of the photos, scotchbrite is better? Will have to try it.

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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

there is a brush I am using in one of the photos, scotchbrite is better? Will have to try it.

On old whitewalls, I use scotchbrite and straight simple green then rinse. 

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Go-Jo Hand cleaner on my cars.  It doesn't have bleach to the best of my knowledge.  Works well, but does need thorough rinsing. 

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Posted (edited)

Side project... I had a few lights out in the garage. Rather than fix the ballast. I decided to upgrade to the LEDs I use in my dealership projects in the parts dept. Needless to say I know a guy (in this case a gal). I also upgraded most to 8' from 4'. Though 2 I had to keep at 4'.

 

I did one tonight. They are WAY brighter!

IMG_20200427_185339.thumb.jpg.750b8b98717c346eda1cb56832a77b4b.jpg

 

I will get to the others later.

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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I like the LEDs a lot more than T8 fluorescent--even though you don't necessarily see the flickering, after a few hours your eyes feel it. LEDs are much easier on the eyes, including the added light.

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Interestingly enough, I ordered LED tubes to replace all of the 8 foot T8 tubes in my garage a few days ago. One of the ballasts had started buzzing enough to irritate me a few days ago. I expect to receive them in a few days.   

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On 4/26/2020 at 11:59 AM, 38Buick 80C said:

So I adjusted the brakes per the manual.

 

I have more than the 2" of travel and actually am rubbing the floor board. I couldn't get the rear brakes to tighten up per the manual. I must have some adjustment in the drum itself I need to make first or something. I bottomed out both adjuster in the rear.

 

Anyone have any experience to guide me?

 

Here is the brake pedal before and bottomed.IMG_20200426_125452.thumb.jpg.cdcfa478dd816c27751a25e9772c448f.jpgIMG_20200426_125507.thumb.jpg.00f58a306ac59386e42fd567ba0e4b7a.jpg

 

Brian maybe this post may be helpful?  He details some steps on adjusting the brakes.

 

 

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On 4/26/2020 at 6:54 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

Today was a mish mash of not much and a some progress> I've moved on to stuff I didn't take off the car myself so definitely slower paddling trying to figure out where parts are between two house (dad's and mine) and what i am even looking for. I had intended to put all the door latch hardware in place and put all the door handles in. I knew two doors latched and 2 didn't I quickly discovered i didnt have the needed parts at my house. I placed an order to the dad warehouse and he brought these over

image000004.jpg

 

But it appear i also need to complete the window installation first before i do that and he says he doesn't have any glass. plus i have to install and wrap in felt the window channel rubber

He brought some other stuff over and I found some parts he needed for the 38-81 he's resurrecting a bit so one bit at a time we are clean up our respective "warehouses" of parts

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In my search for parts i needed i found the elusive bell housing cover. I painted it up and will install it tomorrow.

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In my various rambling progress for the day I cleaned up a bunch of the glass i do have installed namely the windshield, rear window and rear 1/4 windows. I have a good scratch on the windshield I need to polish out or something and the window doesn't go up and down smooth so i have to fix that. I also played around with bleaching the white walls some. I for got to take a before shot so here is the drivers side and then the passenger side progress.

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I saw someone use "Scrubbing Bubbles" bathroom cleaner on their seriously yellowed whitewalls - never tried it as I am a fan of the blue pre-soaped SOS pads, but perhaps try a spot and see if it works.

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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On 4/26/2020 at 7:26 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

 

So is there adjustment within the drum or do I just need to move the level thing on the came another notch for the rear brakes so i can get them to tighten up. I feel like if I can get those to tighten up I will have tight brakes that only travel the 2" per the manual and then wont rub the floor board.

 

Also will see if the floor board has some play to move it down a scootch.

I found the 1931 Cadillacs had quite a bit of fudge factor adjustment an pedals and floor boards (but seemed I had to take a Dremel/moto tool to the floorboard no matter what I tried as could not find what I wanted in spacing - my guess it was to do with reproduction pads under body - and sometimes a project has to end and move onto the next one - which I did), but yes, you need properly adjusted mechanical brakes too.

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From over 40 years experience with whitewall tires on my 1949 Super 51, I swear by brand new SOS pads. They will also smooth out abrasions on the whitewalls that you get when you misjudge your distance from curbs and scrape them up. Ouch!

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Gonna try some evaporust tonight.

 

I put a plug in the temp line and put a little water in the system to check for leaks.

IMG_20200429_174631.thumb.jpg.5bdf38eb3b21ea39ef3ce7f9401e33fd.jpg

Then I put a random temp gauge in the water line to plug that, gonna send the correct one to Bob's for a rebuild.

IMG_20200429_174700.thumb.jpg.0e4b75bbfe3bfc89926ac496a26fe675.jpg

 

Anyone know what that temp gauge is off of?

 

If no leaks after dinner gonna put the evaporust in and let it sit til Sunday.

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

Time is your friend. It'll turn out great.

 10-4 I have a feeling the two things I was promised this week aren't gonna be done so it could go a whole nother week and not one second of progress would be lost, so we will see. 

 

Plus i still have to figure out how to take a apart this water pump and soak it too

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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2 minutes ago, MCHinson said:

 

1938 Buick would be my guess.

 

LOL good guess but the face design is not '38. '38 has white hashes and this is circles with red shadows if you look closely, plus the back ground color is too green for '38.

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Trying to finish up more lights in the garage this AM. One down 4 to go, but only gonna be able to do 2 more today.

 

Dad did deliver these

IMG_20200502_102525.thumb.jpg.d247429593cd027fc77f801889ca8e91.jpg

And a nice preice of rear glass ready to go in.IMG_20200502_102542.thumb.jpg.9386a793f4df17a7b1647debeeed2fa4.jpg

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The left front window channel was included in what dad brought over.

IMG_20200502_124542.thumb.jpg.6e2bea7e9cc91c35cbeb33546753f274.jpg

It's rusted out pretty good.

 

IMG_20200502_124950.thumb.jpg.2dd13afd1ad1f8a0728000a568c50799.jpg

 

Will see what I can do with it but got to get glass measurements so I have have a piece cut.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

The left front window channel was included in what dad brought over.

IMG_20200502_124542.thumb.jpg.6e2bea7e9cc91c35cbeb33546753f274.jpg

It's rusted out pretty good.

 

IMG_20200502_124950.thumb.jpg.2dd13afd1ad1f8a0728000a568c50799.jpg

 

Will see what I can do with it but got to get glass measurements so I have have a piece cut.

Try evapo-rust - get a piece of plastic plumbing tube it will fit in and a cap for the end (and then plumbing cement on the end cap and fill with the evapo-rust or sandblast - I have been using rustolium rust converter primer them for things like this and then rust-olium automotive paint or regular rust-olium since no once sees it and ....

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, John_Mereness said:

Try evapo-rust - get a piece of plastic plumbing tube it will fit in and a cap for the end (and then plumbing cement on the end cap and fill with the evapo-rust or sandblast - I have been using rustolium rust converter primer them for things like this and then rust-olium automotive paint or regular rust-olium since no once sees it and ....

 

I'm not worried about the rust on it, I'm worried about how ate up it is already is. Tough to see in the photo but it's Swiss cheese on the one side. Think i need to have a reinforcement welded on to it.

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Worked on door hardware today. Goal was to have 4 latching doors with eterior door handles

 

First step was to re-tap the holes in the exterior door handles

 

Beforeimage000002.thumb.jpg.9683f58ebb29070b06dbdf4afb420297.jpg

 

Afterimage000000.thumb.jpg.6a5aacac2cc403c66c3fb98090199565.jpg

 

Then i installed handles on the RF/LR Doors that already have glass and the interior hardware in

 

Rear went off fine

image000005.thumb.jpg.425bba032df413f3767840c65fdbd51f.jpg

 

RF was drooping severelyimage000001.thumb.jpg.79fd291f0cb4270956ce575abcb67d56.jpg

 

I determined it wasn't getting past the catch allowing the handle to hang down. I adjusted the catch as best I could in the wood. Steel bodied 38 is a lot more forgiving on adjustment of these.

image000000.thumb.jpg.c0081b2af4e57684d6ec613937955c11.jpg

 

after that, much better

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Then on to the RR/LF. Despite having good glass ready to go in the RR. I need to felt wrap one of the glass rubber channels ( I had one good one). I will probably end up having to take this back off to put the channel in but I was experimenting some. I did determine i can get the glass in with the wood hardware piece in place.  Also you can see I am missing the interior door handle mount thing. The one i have has the old handle broke off in the threads of the escutcheon (and found later the RF is the same). So may have to take it off anyway to mount that. Will just have to play with that later.

 

image000001.thumb.jpg.e9c130a8aade06e98263f2ea06691c24.jpg

 

and latched shut

image000004.thumb.jpg.8fb2a855ad3efb23d1e540dfde642bc9.jpg

 

And then the RF same thing need to put rubber window channel in later.

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and latchedimage000002.thumb.jpg.2e80b15fcb208190107cf471c07752e0.jpg

 

 

I also messed around with the front seat adjuster thing (the thing that moves the seat forward and backward. I bought i gear thing from Bob's you can see in one of the photos below but i see no means to use it. I also had another threaded rod with handle and hardware but quickly determined it must be for a different car. I'm definitely missing parts to make this work and have a few extra I don't understand what they are for. I'll start researching what I should have here cause at the moment I'm at a loss.

image000006.thumb.jpg.f4122d14c2020681627773fb814d5444.jpgimage000005.thumb.jpg.8fa8d5e734a52e2c800cee87edd8ad95.jpg

gear thing from Bob's on the middle left of the second photo.

 

I also adjusted the floor board down a bit and got some more clearance.  but then put the trim plate on and had less clearance... I seem to be missing an upper trim plate as well. Based on the firewall engine side of the car Dad most likely had it on post painting as there is evidence of lock washer scratches. So will need to hunt for that some more.

 

image000000.thumb.jpg.cfadc46dc9b96861bb72b0ee8536eb01.jpg

 

Final item of the day... I messed with the steering wheel. It's never been one piece. I got all the wood together as one and placed together. I assume it must get glued and then perhaps covered in lacquer? i see no other obvious methods of holding it all together unless it gets smalls screws from the back side?

image000003.thumb.jpg.1ef3217e97151815c995082d0bc66a36.jpg

 

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two small but easy projects to start the day.

 

First the frame cross bar is pretty dinged up and it is exposed after all the sheet metal is on so gave it a good sanding and hit is with a couple coats of gloss black

Beforeimage000001.thumb.jpg.b685bba8e08e593ec64d55c563a6ddeb.jpg

 

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The transmission shift lever was unpainted on this car. I believe it should actually be chromed the best I can tell, but I decided to hit is with gloss black as well.

 

Sandedimage000004.thumb.jpg.532166c4973d7589ec4d641016399381.jpg

 

Afterimage000003.thumb.jpg.00735155ccbc4539487791087f57ff3b.jpg

 

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Also as you may have noticed in some of the photos I out an old 6V Optima Battery in. I have it sitting on a battery tender which is show green, but I did hit the starter pedal a few times and nothing.

 

I got my 12V jump pack and hooked that up as the starter is the only wired at this point and I've used the jump pack on my 6V 38s numerous times.

 

She turned over slowly a few times. So that's good. Looks like I need a fresh battery but  I am pleased.

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Adjusted the brakes again.

 

I moved the level thing on the cam to tighten the brakes and then followed the directions in the manual.

 

Success!!!

 Much better and the pedal travel is much less so it doesn't rub the floor board any more.

 

 

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Looks like I am missing onerear lower trim and one each front and rear upper trim.

IMG_20200503_110105.thumb.jpg.f0524d7ae2def2d8dc8b7138681848e9.jpg

 

All will need to be wood grained... Perhaps a new skill to learn...

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Noticed I have two profiles of these.

IMG_20200503_110728.thumb.jpg.7b7c1599bd5602891b80ec4602222384.jpg

But I only have 1 of the thicker profile, while I have enough for a whole car of the other.

IMG_20200503_110749.thumb.jpg.f01cb5e860fbb289a339623d16274339.jpg

 

Thicker one has a number on it A18410 thinner one has A18942 on all of them

 

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Some scratches in the windshield.

 

Before

IMG_20200503_123832.thumb.jpg.77f561de0ebfb36715ec3c6b9210e1d0.jpg

 

I polished with steel wool and mother's mag and aluminum polish. Followed be polishing compound.

IMG_20200503_125849.thumb.jpg.94bb83499be4769211de3e6d78b09276.jpg

Much better but still visible. Will just have to keep working at it. Can really see it on the inside. Also sratched from wiper.

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I decided to go shopping...

 

I went to Dad's and looked through what he had, here's what I "scored"

IMG_20200503_144359.thumb.jpg.238226d28417dee4f37983a568152482.jpg

IMG_20200503_145007.thumb.jpg.efd4a408842e9741cf629455b436356c.jpg

 

That's a good, 2 dash boards (one complete with all the stuff, a bunch of window shades, running board rubber, all the headlight components, and the second picture appears to be another complete set of the window trim.

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