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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


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On 9/20/2020 at 1:04 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

Today I wanted to get the upper window channel set. I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive and simply closed the window to set it. I will come back later and tack it in.

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I also noticed the front door is so thin I'm not sure how I am supposed to mount the wood grained trim channel. I'm thinking tube nuts?

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Finally I loosened up the rear fender so i could set the drivers side running board in place.

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I believe I will have to trim the board back some more. I also feel like I may have to plane the boards thinner so the stainless trim and rubber sits flush with the fender and matches the molded body line in the fenders. Otherwise all else seem to be so far so good.

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Perhaps relief's routed for the brackets and ... verses planed more thin ?

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5 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

Quiet ?

Boys soccer season...multiple games Saturday and Sunday (6 this weekend) through early December...been doing some things to get ready for winter break to hit it hard when i have my weekends back...

 

Pulled the gas tank it's been cut open, media blasted and hopefully back together soon. Still waiting on the radiator, but bought a cheap one to try and use just for start up. a mish mash of other stuff like that. will update later...

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1 minute ago, John_Mereness said:

Still Quiet ? 

 

2 more weeks of soccer and txgvg...

 

Got the headlights UVIRA coated, (arrive Monday)

Got most of my chrome/nickle back (waiting on some window shade brackets)

Got the foot rests and new steel rod

got stainless steel rod for the rope rail (need to have the brackets honed for fit

woodgraining nearing completion (got to have 5 pieces pinstriped

got the Sylphon thing rebuilt by Jim Otto

Gas tank rebuilt and sealed and back this coming week

 

Still waiting on

Hood painted

 

 

And then there is the radiator

after 6 months I had enough and collected it.

supposedly it still leaks barely. It looks like fido's rear end

A new honeycomb core from Maine radiator via England is $3500... which my radiator guy wouldn't even call, so i had to have the restoration shop call, another reason i took it back

At this point i am going to put it in the car so i can tidy up the resto of the restoration even if it leaks. goal is to get to the BCA national which is 3 miles so got to finish the restoration and need the rad to do so. If time allows or after the national i will pull it and have a modern core put in it and call it a day.

 

running boards I'm still putzing around on. gathered some more info from other owners on sizing...which was all over the place all within a half inch of each other but still, not entirely consistent.

 

 

So come December will be hitting it hard again with a goal of driving it by Christmas and getting it in either the upholstery shop or the restoration shop for buffing by late January when soccer season kicks back up.

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I just found your thread yesterday. Extremely impressed!! ...and so jealous of your progress. I sometimes consider selling my 30-61 and getting something closer to done. I am running out of workable years to devote to it.

As for that radiator core, wow, that's $$$$!! There are some out there on the web occasionally. That honeycomb is the first thing I fell in love with on these cars. My dad had a buckrake out in the field made from a '29 Buick Master of some sort. The cows made the chrome on the radiator shell shine like nobody's business. Hopefully, you will find a true replacement someday, or a shop that can really repair yours.

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My sills were a disaster when I obtained my 30-61. The front ends had rotted away and some cheap wood had been scabbed in. That also rotted. So when making my new sills I had to really guess at some things. One being where the front door pillars connect. I think I have it right, but I think you could really help me here. Could you possibly take a measurement from the back of the nearest hole on the top of the frame in front of the cowl to the front edge of the cowl itself on each side? That would give me an exact location for the pillars.  Oops, I realize now that your car is pretty much done and your frame covers are in place. Well, if you ever have that accessible, could you measure that maybe?

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3 hours ago, Erndog said:

My sills were a disaster when I obtained my 30-61. The front ends had rotted away and some cheap wood had been scabbed in. That also rotted. So when making my new sills I had to really guess at some things. One being where the front door pillars connect. I think I have it right, but I think you could really help me here. Could you possibly take a measurement from the back of the nearest hole on the top of the frame in front of the cowl to the front edge of the cowl itself on each side? That would give me an exact location for the pillars.  Oops, I realize now that your car is pretty much done and your frame covers are in place. Well, if you ever have that accessible, could you measure that maybe?

 

sills? just to clarify do you mean sills at the bottom of the door opening or on the doors themselves. I'm glad to measure/photograph what i can but I'm not exactly sure I understand where you need based on above.

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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Anyone else unable to post photos from there mobile phone since the forum update a few months back?

Not from my iPhone, but tried loading some photos from my Windows laptop.  They kept loading to the forum upside down no matter what I tried....so I just gave up. 

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39 minutes ago, dship said:

Not from my iPhone, but tried loading some photos from my Windows laptop.  They kept loading to the forum upside down no matter what I tried....so I just gave up. 

mine will not upload from my phone

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image000001.thumb.jpg.4fbf4f78c1990d1a81be0d05e7049eef.jpg

 

spewing...

 

 

this isn't going well either... the repro bezel isn't fitting into the holes on the dash thus it is not sitting flush...

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looks pretty though

 

I called it a day. more again tomorrow

 

the other things I accomplished, not pictured, I replaced the tail light housings with a better one I had chromed and I installed the other luggage rack bracket i had laser cut since I couldn't find a replacement. If anyone ever needs one I now have a source for repro's.

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Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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On 11/18/2020 at 6:09 PM, Erndog said:

My sills were a disaster when I obtained my 30-61. The front ends had rotted away and some cheap wood had been scabbed in. That also rotted. So when making my new sills I had to really guess at some things. One being where the front door pillars connect. I think I have it right, but I think you could really help me here. Could you possibly take a measurement from the back of the nearest hole on the top of the frame in front of the cowl to the front edge of the cowl itself on each side? That would give me an exact location for the pillars.  Oops, I realize now that your car is pretty much done and your frame covers are in place. Well, if you ever have that accessible, could you measure that maybe?

 

On 11/18/2020 at 10:02 PM, Erndog said:

I am referring to the main sills that run the full length of the body on each side.

The area I am thinking of measuring is between the firewall at the frame and that first hole to the left in your photo.

 

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See attached photos the sill is 77.5" long from the point where I am pointing (just rear of the rear most mount ahead of the rear wheel opening) to the front most point. And a photo with the measurement as requested above.

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9 hours ago, Erndog said:

You don't have a lead on a good block (center portion)? Mine has a 27" crack. 🤕

 

no sir

 

other sill photos

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Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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got the instrument panel bezel to sit flush...it involved a drill. Hooked up all the misc. gadgets off the instrument panel too.

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I tried to time the engine but I need the hand crank to do it easiest. also noticed my distributor is WAY off the manual's description as the condenser isn't event close to being located toward the front. I have a bead on a crank to be purchased but was planning to simply get it at the National as I hadn't though I would legitimately need it before then. So much for that. 

 

That said I did run the motor again today and move the car outside ( and back in) under it's own power. Which is an accomplishment. I plan to change which garage stall it sits in so I can fit the front bumpers and have some more room to work in general. Given the timing I need to significantly move the timing  and the overheating issue I don't plan on any road testing just yet. 

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I set the headlight bar on just for giggles. It doesn't fit very well... the passenger fender needs to be tighter to the fender brace. Was going to set these on but seeing how close it is to the rad shell and knowing my radiator is coming back out for leaks and now with overheating too (I'm assuming it is radiator related), might hold off on this for a bit.

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Did do some things to prepare for the hood to be mounted, including installing the latches and the hood hinge securing mounts front and rear (not pictured).

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I also messed with the running boards some more, nothing worth photographing.

 

 

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12 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Could the overheating be timing related (or maybe exacerbating the marginal radiator)?  Late timing will make it run hotter than normal.

 

yup sure could. Got to get that sorted for sure.

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Brian, I was going through some of my books yesterday and found a couple things that may or may not be of interest. The first is tune-up data for your engine from a 1938 edition of Chilton, which I am positive you have already have. The other is specific info on timing from my 1932 Dykes. It is for the Eights, but there may be some gleanable material there. Hope you get something of value out of them.

Buick 8 Timing-1.jpg

Buick 8 Timing-2.jpg

Buick Tune-Up Data.jpg

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On 11/26/2020 at 1:59 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

 

this isn't going well either... the repro bezel isn't fitting into the holes on the dash thus it is not sitting flush...

image000000.thumb.jpg.14ef08446d96479a5eb421c6edf9b16e.jpg

 

l

 

Hours of time with your miniature file set (and only run the file in one way (it is not a saw - aka do not chip paint or ...) - go to town.

 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

Lower radiator hose also needs a wire in them to prevent collapse 

Not unusual for the wire to rust away in an old hose. Should always replace the hoses, especially the lower one.

 

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On 11/28/2020 at 8:41 AM, Erndog said:

Brian, I was going through some of my books yesterday and found a couple things that may or may not be of interest. The first is tune-up data for your engine from a 1938 edition of Chilton, which I am positive you have already have. The other is specific info on timing from my 1932 Dykes. It is for the Eights, but there may be some gleanable material there. Hope you get something of value out of them.

Buick 8 Timing-1.jpg

Buick 8 Timing-2.jpg

Buick Tune-Up Data.jpg

 

Thanks for this great info. As it happens, I have the shop and owner manual which have a detailed procedure.

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On 11/28/2020 at 1:34 PM, John_Mereness said:

Lower radiator hose also needs a wire in them to prevent collapse 

 

I hadn't considered, that the hose may be collapsing, that said I would think:

1. it's not really under load and I've only experienced hose collapse under load where the water pump (in a modern V8) creates such a suction the hose collapses

2. with the drain tube thing I had "reproduced" (I mean I guessed at what it might be like based on photos of other cars) the rubber hose lengths on this car are pretty short all things considered.

 

But I'm gonna be watching for that none the less now that you said something, if nothing but to cross it off the list of possibilities. Thanks for the reminder.

 

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