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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


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A little more adjustment patience and some throttle (would be way easier if some of this stuff was connected)

 

 

Success!!!

 

Carb is leaking like a sieve so I got to sort that and valve lash and timing adjustments are in order but I will save those for when I have a radiator.

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I know you've got it already plumbed, but those disc-style fuel pressure regulators are notoriously unreliable, both in terms of actually regulating pressure and for not failing on the road. I'd recommend this one, which can be regulated down to 1 PSI (it's the same one I'm using in place of the vacuum tank on my '29 Cadillac):

 

hly-12-804_tn_xl.jpg?rep=False

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/hly-12-804

 

 

1269505767_2018-11-2910_15_48.thumb.jpg.b28463f88863a5487bc96a4695e64b54.jpg

(I've since removed the rubber hose and gone with 100% hard line)

 

It's not expensive and it's a lot more precise and reliable. There are two output ports so I used one for a gauge to set it to about 1.5 PSI for the gravity-fed carburetor. I've been driving the car on it for nearly 10 years now and have been very pleased with it. Sure, I'd like to put the vacuum tank on, but it works so well this way that I don't want to mess with it. 


Do yourself a favor and use a good regulator. It'll be easier to tune and you won't be stuck by the side of the road someday with fuel pouring out of that disc-style unit. You can also hide it down on the frame rail and just run a line up to the carburetor so it won't look out of place at a glance.

 

PS: Where did you get those flare nuts with the curved necks? I've been trying to find those for my cars since they look much more authentic than the standard flare nuts you by at McMaster.

Edited by Matt Harwood (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Success!!!

 

Congratulations!  I didn't think it would go for a few painful seconds of the cranking.  But it sounded GREAT!   

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20 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

PS: Where did you get those flare nuts with the curved necks? I've been trying to find those for my cars since they look much more authentic than the standard flare nuts you by at McMaster.

 

No idea. They were on the car already... Dad must have got them some 30+ years ago.

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17 minutes ago, jackofalltrades70 said:

And a BIG FAT cigar

wife's home... couldn't do that

 

save that for the first drive...got a Cuban and some Blue label for that.

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21 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

The shop is making good progress on the front fenders, but it'll be another week or two.

 

So I got a fuel pressure regulator and set about making sure my fuel leaks were managed got that all installed and felt good about that after hitting the system with the electric pump. The regulator is just ahead of the carb set to #2.

 

681145133_2020-07-2515_12_11.thumb.jpg.8e0d4c382eb431aaeb8ee4572a499525.jpg

 

 

I have had two of those Filt-O-Reg regulators sort of explode on a 1935 Packard Twelve (car is running on a Carter rotary pump) - glad they were down low where no harm was caused - I thought the first one was a fluke, but .... - now I am cautious  Now, I use the Holley ones that you adjust with a allen wrench and locking nut (just as Matt has pictured).  

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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21 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

A little more adjustment patience and some throttle (would be way easier if some of this stuff was connected)

 

 

Success!!!

 

Carb is leaking like a sieve so I got to sort that and valve lash and timing adjustments are in order but I will save those for when I have a radiator.

Congratulations !!!

 

Thinking it is a gas issue and you probably need to find its magic spot between choke and spark via hand controls.  Now, get coolant system in order and 500 starts and restarts.  Then, a day of up and down the driveway and once that is mastered then start going around the block. 

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Posted (edited)

Stopped by the shop today to check on the hood and fenders.

 

Hood is good and I'm epoxy primer 

IMG_20200728_153710.thumb.jpg.d4a5e1d2dd997b6a061ed6b7844a76ff.jpg

Fenders, also in epoxy primer, are ... disappointingly going to cost me a lot of money to get right despite being in relatively nice shape.

IMG_20200728_153828.thumb.jpg.389bdf3677110428e1d344f8dd6ad0c2.jpg

IMG_20200728_153833.thumb.jpg.48851db222e6000680f8395de82459ea.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

I got the u-shaped under radiator piece back from the painter. So installed it and the frame rail covers.

 

IMG_20200808_163724.thumb.jpg.d055dadbcf09075585b34e4b5eb9e671.jpgIMG_20200808_163746.thumb.jpg.91d97709be65b76ceb82501878651b4c.jpg

 

I am feeling like there should be something here to support the frame rail covers. It the same on both sides.

 

IMG_20200808_162220.thumb.jpg.df0f85845c7ff64f0bd32e16a311bd7a.jpg

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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19 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

I got the u-shaped under radiator piece back from the painter. So installed it and the frame rail covers.

 

IMG_20200808_163724.thumb.jpg.d055dadbcf09075585b34e4b5eb9e671.jpgIMG_20200808_163746.thumb.jpg.91d97709be65b76ceb82501878651b4c.jpg

 

I am feeling like there should be something here to support the frame rail covers. It the same on both sides.

 

IMG_20200808_162220.thumb.jpg.df0f85845c7ff64f0bd32e16a311bd7a.jpg

 

I am not sure, but I recall (ex. 1931 Cadilac) the side rails go on after the front fenders

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59 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:

I am not sure, but I recall (ex. 1931 Cadilac) the side rails go on after the front fenders

 

That's entirely probable as the clearance between the frame rail covers and the steering arms is minimal. However there are nothing on the fenders that would go under the covers at that point as seen clearly I. The photos of the fenders above in the thread.

 

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Posted (edited)

Not too much today.

 

Drained the tank to drop it for leak fixing. Also hooked up the fuel pump switch differently as it wasn't receiving power reliably.

 

Got these back the other day.

IMG_20200809_111308.thumb.jpg.23bb9f58068227957b41ef33cc963eed.jpg

 

The left peices are related to the wipers and because it is hidden behind the dash I just had it machined simplistically.

 

The right pieces are for the front seat adjustment. So I did install that today which is a chore.

 

I haven't found my fuel pressure regulator so I guess I will just buy another one.

 

I'm supposed to get my front fenders back this week. No word on the radiator but the tank will go to the same guy so we will see.

 

I got to switch over to my 69 Charger which randomly started running poorly this week.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Try mounting the fenders first - as to the side aprons for them, it will have a lot to do with how the hood fits and ... - most everything we have had the aprons lay flat on the frame rail with usually 1/6 to 1/8 webbing under them or a small stack of webbing (and sometimes washers) to level out.  Any way about it though, I would not get too engaged in their fit until you are further along mounting up more sheet metal. 

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Brian:

 I am so glad you are progressing so well with this project. I had only been aware of the waterpump problem and not seen the entire thread. You have been on quite a journey! We must get together for a good cigar. I see you like Brick House, although Punch is my preference.

 

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Updated to Holley regulator. No more leaks (though I didn't run it).

 

IMG_20200815_195721.thumb.jpg.e01e35f5c1158594f536d6eadef957a8.jpg

 

I visited the fenders. They are coming along nicely. Maybe next weekend, but we have soccer games, Indy 500 and a birthday for my youngest so if it is not sure I will have time to install them. No radiator yet, ugh.

 

Also been working on my '69 Charger getting it ready for Greenbrier Concours. Replaced the distributor which solved some issues. Had hoped to have AC for trip to WV, but heater control valve isn't shutting off the engine coolant to the heater core so gonna have to install a manual sit off. That and compressor is vibrating like hell at idle. So we will see. Might have to be a 4 at 55 trip.

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Fenders look great, Brian!

My grandkids LOVE looking at their reflections in the various surfaces of our cars; I'm sure those fenders would be their favorites!

 

RE: gap between frame rail and frame covers.

Does the radiator mount include any bushings in that area?

Joe

 

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Posted (edited)

okay I can't take credit for the wood graining below as my father wanted to try his hand at it and I was glad to oblige. I did the base color and the clear and between our efforts I'm very please with this first batch.

 

 

 

image000002.thumb.jpg.d5777ba9c19454ef2cb3450e4e5701b2.jpgimage000003.thumb.jpg.8b0ffc77a6084ed171c74494cbe3bd29.jpgimage000000.thumb.jpg.8cd7bb45467830dbfd51878def7c920b.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.9810dbf4868aa5027cc3014662c4d8cd.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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On 8/27/2020 at 10:22 PM, 95Cardinal said:

RE: gap between frame rail and frame covers.

Does the radiator mount include any bushings in that area?

Joe

 

Joe,

Nothing on the shell, but I had to go double check cause I definitely thought the idea had merit.

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fenders are on. Drives side went easy as pie. Passenger side was a bear. Nothing lined up.

 

image000001.thumb.jpg.9f667d20e745c1ef9eac047f61b5a8c9.jpg

 

image000000.thumb.jpg.78d6bfc4540268fd0a77bc8fe6c7008f.jpg

Dad helped with the initial install and then I did the res of the bolting over the course of several hours due to the passenger side tehre was a lot of loosening of brackets and bits to get things to bolt together.

 

This is after all the bolting was complete and the masking tape removed

image000000.thumb.jpg.3f5bd36aaf920b1d7e4c1e788713e604.jpg

 

I have a couple spots marked for the paint shop as they still have to buff them.

 

I measured for the running boards to get them made in hard wood.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a little woodwork done.

 

Had to match a piece for the door

image000000.thumb.jpg.f569bb24c6cf1bc9ec53a78b438acaec.jpg

 

and then these will be the running boards... almost a shame to have to paint them black and cover them...

 

image000002.thumb.jpg.e387ee04f2d1a2c89420e4feb0348207.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.b93d29a0780d55b172f538ea78fb4110.jpg

 

this weekend's project will to start to get them fit and drilled for mounting.

 

 

 

 

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On 9/10/2020 at 9:02 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

Had a little woodwork done.

 

Had to match a piece for the door

image000000.thumb.jpg.f569bb24c6cf1bc9ec53a78b438acaec.jpg

 

and then these will be the running boards... almost a shame to have to paint them black and cover them...

 

image000002.thumb.jpg.e387ee04f2d1a2c89420e4feb0348207.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.b93d29a0780d55b172f538ea78fb4110.jpg

 

this weekend's project will to start to get them fit and drilled for mounting.

 

 

 

 

Perhaps Varnish the underside - albeit they were probably stained black though when new. 

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started the day playing with a new toy... a magnetic induction heater. supposed to be a flameless way to heat nuts for removal. My dealerships use them and say they work really well. I tried it on slotted counter sunk bolts which would not the correct use but whatever... didn't work was worth the experiment.

image000000.thumb.jpg.cffda8ecf6edd251f5b013f113b0fe9c.jpg

 

I then used it to heat up to remove some of the window shade end brackets. For that it worked very well.

 

image000004.thumb.jpg.5a4b97e76254dae4b702fc974908219e.jpg

 

here is the unit heating up the bracket

image000001.thumb.jpg.44f9310bda19eb935efb34e15c3acbd5.jpg

 

a little bit of prying with a screwdriver

image000002.thumb.jpg.a76771cee6fb6c0c426dabbc82d649cb.jpg

 

and brackets off

image000005.thumb.jpg.d2965e812117fe7d9f3e10dc2620b1c8.jpg

 

I apparently bought out the supply of brackets from Bob's so I needed these to send out to the plater

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Then some other minor tasks

 

painted running board brackets and mudflap brackets... made new rubber mud flaps too (not shown)

image000003.thumb.jpg.d5013eaf465809733f0d337b9760e897.jpg

 

 

I also installed the new piece of wood i had made for the drivers door for the door panel install.

 

image000006.thumb.jpg.7a3e7a2976f8f49a767b23c46e3c9be6.jpg

 

then I tacked in some of the window channel rubber (not shown)

 

Learned a little more about the running board install from John Fields but haven't made any progress on that just yet. Also still haven't been able to locate the silly luggage rack bracket so think I will simply have to get one made. we have a laser cutting place nearby that I have used before. they should be able to make quick work of it I hope.

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Finally got 4 running board fender brackets. Moving slowly forward with the running boards. As I have no templates I'm trying to be very deliberate, but no doubt will make some mistakes along the way.

 

image000000.thumb.jpg.43dac1f170b2de170c1721f11952e385.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.de6d6ff4c8768ac30045ee85415d8d06.jpg

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Today I wanted to get the upper window channel set. I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive and simply closed the window to set it. I will come back later and tack it in.

image000006.thumb.jpg.cc65b684b7a5552270498bd17dcbb46b.jpgimage000007.thumb.jpg.fdbf556418a7abc5b387cf2cbe64c0f7.jpgimage000003.thumb.jpg.a1d6971f2385cebe667d844f51d4b368.jpg

 

I also noticed the front door is so thin I'm not sure how I am supposed to mount the wood grained trim channel. I'm thinking tube nuts?

image000000.thumb.jpg.c25406dcb438a56b5fc4b9ef213c77df.jpgimage000005.thumb.jpg.6e18e02dee5c4070a4730e018a24427e.jpg

Finally I loosened up the rear fender so i could set the drivers side running board in place.

image000002.thumb.jpg.fe4ea9f30bf4d4c78bd9a2c4cd72788f.jpg

I believe I will have to trim the board back some more. I also feel like I may have to plane the boards thinner so the stainless trim and rubber sits flush with the fender and matches the molded body line in the fenders. Otherwise all else seem to be so far so good.

image000001.thumb.jpg.4810774a13ccaad190d00ccf95e086df.jpg

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Before you go too far with the running boards, I might suggest marine-grade plywood. I can't quite tell how thick that board is, but perhaps some 5/8" would work? Plywood tends to be stiffer and less prone to warping and using marine-grade will make it virtually weatherproof for the light use you're going to do with the car. The plywood will stand up much better to people stepping on it, it won't flex like a single board, won't split when you drive screws into it, and will hold its dimensions better regardless of ambient temperature and humidity. Maybe not 100% correct, but an invisible change that may improve long-term durability.
 

Just a thought from a former carpenter...

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1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:

Before you go too far with the running boards, I might suggest marine-grade plywood. I can't quite tell how thick that board is, but perhaps some 5/8" would work? Plywood tends to be stiffer and less prone to warping and using marine-grade will make it virtually weatherproof for the light use you're going to do with the car. The plywood will stand up much better to people stepping on it, it won't flex like a single board, won't split when you drive screws into it, and will hold its dimensions better regardless of ambient temperature and humidity. Maybe not 100% correct, but an invisible change that may improve long-term durability.
 

Just a thought from a former carpenter...

 

should have told me that before I put a kings ransom in mahogany... it's all good.

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4 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

I can't quite tell how thick that board is, but perhaps some 5/8" would work?

Board is currently 7/8" thick" it does appear to get the trim on over the rubber I need to plane a 1/4" off to make it 5/8" thick.

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