Povertycove

1931 light switch

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As I was getting my 1931  convertible coupe ready for its winters rest, the inner ring in the center, the light switch, broke into three pieces. I see that they have been glued together before. So I either have to do a proper repair on the old pieces, or find a new switch. My guess is that these pot metal switches are darned scarce. Anyone know of a source, or could give me a tip on how to repair these pieces properly? I was told that Paul may have the molds for these? Any plans for a repop?

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This just came up recently. Hank Manwell tracked down the  George Clapp molds for the 30 - 31 head light switch handle, the steering wheel hub hand throttle and hi/lo beam switch control handles, and the hood door finger pulls, that he got after George passed away. Contact the Club Reproduction Parts Project manager Keith Kilmer.

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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In addition to Paul's suggestion, these handles (newly made) show up in the Trek's parts department from time to time so there are some out there. You should definitely go on the clubs website with a wanted add begging for one. Who knows, you might be lucky.

 

Bill 

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6 minutes ago, hook said:

In addition to Paul's suggestion, these handles (newly made) show up in the Trek's parts department from time to time so there are some out there. You should definitely go on the clubs website with a wanted add begging for one. Who knows, you might be lucky.

 

Bill 

 

Just a follow up to Bill's post.

Beware of repro parts that are stainless steel.  There were some Franklin diecast parts reproduced in the past using cast stainless steel. But the mold patterns were never modified to be oversized to compensate for shrinkage as the castings cool. As a result there can be fit problems with some parts being undersize.

 

Paul 

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What is the part number for 31 handles? I have made some for 29-30 part number 43412 out of 360 brass. They were fully machine per print.

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Sidenote: Having just done this project this past weekend on a Cadillac and dealing with non-fitting parts due to shrinkage, I will tell you that I spent a good 15-20 hours with the Dremel tool matched to about 60 dollars in various tips/tools for it.   When finished on the castings, I then had to deal with the broken bakelite - I used 3M auto panel body adhesive in black (they use the product to glue on sheet metal repair panels).  Also, was kind of a pain as it takes a special calk gun and the adhesive is somewhat expensive.   I was at AutoZone this week and saw JB weld or Peramatex had a small tube of panel adhesive that you hand mix the two parts 50/50 - I picked up a tube and will try it today on a repair to the steering wheel (I have been using the 3M panel adhesive to repair steering wheels - black, sandable. polishable, and ... - not a perfect black color match, but pretty good nevertheless).   I also use the panel adhesive to repair the one piece of sector die cast the fellow who made parts did not reproduced- seems he made what was broken on his car only.

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On 10/25/2019 at 5:36 AM, Povertycove said:

As I was getting my 1931  convertible coupe ready for its winters rest, the inner ring in the center, the light switch, broke into three pieces. I see that they have been glued together before. So I either have to do a proper repair on the old pieces, or find a new switch. My guess is that these pot metal switches are darned scarce. Anyone know of a source, or could give me a tip on how to repair these pieces properly? I was told that Paul may have the molds for these? Any plans for a repop?

Hello. I am sure your pot Metal steering wheel part can definitely be repaired back to its pre-damaged condition. Post some photos or shoot me a text or call me at 707.621.5052. Let's see what we can do k. 

Here are a few of my pot metal repairs: James Ruther's pot Metal repair

Feel free to email me at james@potmetal.repair 

 

Thanks. 

 

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