mrcvs

Sources for obsolete automobile parts

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A word should be said here for sellers of individual or batchs of parts...

We tend to assume that everyone's as familiar with cars as we are., and most are not....a seller may well advertise mechanical or body parts from a 23 Kratz his father dismantled in the garage and never got back together again, but doesn't realize Krats put out two different models that year, all mostly from off-the-shelf suppliers but different ones for the different models...and may unknowingly, with the best of intentions, send a part to someone who funds its not right for his particular car...

As stressed above, buyers must be careful...

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Caveat Emptor

 

The doctrine of caveat emptor or “let the buyer beware”—is based on the notion that purchasers must fend for themselves, seeking protection by express warranties from the vendor or by independent examination of the premises. If they fail to do so, they are often without recourse.

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22 hours ago, Tinindian said:

Keep pictures of everything you are looking for including casting numbers or other marks if a cast piece and ask EVERYBODY.  You never know who has something that they have no idea what it is or fits.  I heard some friends talking about SS Ford valves.  I asked how I would know if a Ford valve was SS.  They told me SS in non magnetic.  It turned out I had seven of them that came in a mixed box that I had bought decades earlier. 

 

If you are asking by make model and year make sure your information is correct.  Make sure the components on your car are the correct ones id you are ordering by make model and year or else know what you are replacing came from.

 

Remember many car manufacturers bought electrical, brake, carburetor, clutch,  transmission and differential assemblies from other suppliers.  For example the interior parts if a Delso starter that fit a '29-'31 Pontiac also fit many WPC and other vehicles right up until they did away with the step on starter.

Another example is many parts from Bob's Automobilia also fit Fisher bodies used by other GM divisions.

 

Always know the dimensions dimension even when you have the number off the old bearing.  Check prices, I needed a two row ball bearing for my differential.  The only one I could find was a poor change up light duty bearing for $275.00.. My transmission and differential shop found a exact modern replacement for $135.00 including their markup.

 

Don't start out by asking about a part by year, often putting the old part on the counter and asking for a replacement gets you a part that is in stock.  I put my worn out clutch disc from my Pontiac on the GM parts counter and asked for a new one.  The partsman went in the back and came back with a replacement from a mid 70's Camaro that was a perfect fit. 

SBC manifold to exhaust pipe seals are different looking but are a perfect fit for split head Pontiac engines.

Pinto fan blades (if you drill different mounting holes) are a perfect fit for split-head Pontiac engines and are visually the same when installed.

 

Belts: know the dimensions, length, width and Vee angle.

 

KEEP a LOG BOOK of everything you replace, noting original number and all change ups up to the current replacement part.  KEEP this book in the CAR AT ALL TIMES.

 

 

I put my notes in a slightly different place than a book in the car: I migrated it all to a database back in the 1990s. And then when I set up my "vanity website" I put it up there. So it is free for anyone to look up what I know, or think I know, about cross referencing early Plymouth parts (which given Chrysler's "badge engineering" often helps for other Chrysler products as long as you know the original Chrysler part number). The database is at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric You can search by name, part number or part type code. Or you can browse through the various pages of the virtual parts book. No, I don't stock or sell any parts, this is for information only. And I am always on the look out for new cross references and newer cross references for the ones I have.

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