Sloth Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 (edited) As the health of the lathe left something to be desired, so did mine. Tuesday morning at 8:00 I went to the dentist for preparation of a crown for a molar, nothing special. Got home at 9:00, and at 12:00 felt not well at all. So went to bed, woke up at 15:00hr with high fever and felt really bad. Long story short at 20:00hr I was put in bed again, but this time at the hospital. Reason for this speedy action: in 2015 I got a biological aorta valve (I suffered from a defective hart valve). The cardiologist at the hospital suspected a beginning endocarditis. In between I was tested for Corona, turned out to be negative. Luckily my condition improved and I was released yesterday, a bit shaky but happy. A cause for the high fever could not be found. This was the third time I was prevented to start making bearings for the Cleveland engine. Mmm, maybe I displeased one of the car Spirits... Regards, Harm Edited October 25, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doozer Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Gosh Harm, sure sorry you weren’t feeling well. Maybe a reaction to novacaine. Wishing you well. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Bearingitist? Glad to hear your back and feeling better. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Perkins / Mn Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 A real scare for sure, most happy you are feeling better. Trouble often comes in threes, hope you are out of the woods now. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Really pleased to read that you are back out of hospital. Good fun this getting old! What did you do to upset the dentist?! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 4 hours ago, Mike Macartney said: Really pleased to read that you are back out of hospital. Good fun this getting old! What did you do to upset the dentist?! Hello Mike, I have really no idea what I did to upset the dentist. Payed the bills of my last visit on time, did not flirt with the female dental assistants 😉, did not discuss his tariffs, not even mentioned them 😇. Mmm, did not flirt, maybe..... Regards, Harm PS Getting old is nice, being old not so. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) Hello Harm, Good Gosh...you are scaring the "devil" out of me with all this talk of Hospital stay for doing a new crown! I am half way through that very process. The final stage to be next week. Are you up and going at near full speed yet for the youngster you are? Is the Cleveland on your personal radar yet? Here is an off the wall question for you. Do you know of any organization, that has WW1 military "stuff" as the main focus, in the Holland area? We are firmly done with this garden and fruit year. Last night we settled at 16 degree F and will be so for a couple more nights then back into the 60's. On another update....we did a couple of days in marathon pressing apples into fresh apple cider. My wife kept some fresh cider and bottled the rest for use this winter! I think we ended up with about 15 gallons. 🙂 I hope this note finds all well with you and Anna. Regards, Alan Edited October 26, 2020 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 On 10/26/2020 at 7:33 PM, alsfarms said: Hello Harm, Good Gosh...you are scaring the "devil" out of me with all this talk of Hospital stay for doing a new crown! I am half way through that very process. The final stage to be next week. Are you up and going at near full speed yet for the youngster you are? Is the Cleveland on your personal radar yet? Here is an off the wall question for you. Do you know of any organization, that has WW1 military "stuff" as the main focus, in the Holland area? We are firmly done with this garden and fruit year. Last night we settled at 16 degree F and will be so for a couple more nights then back into the 60's. On another update....we did a couple of days in marathon pressing apples into fresh apple cider. My wife kept some fresh cider and bottled the rest for use this winter! I think we ended up with about 15 gallons. 🙂 I hope this note finds all well with you and Anna. Regards, Alan Hello Alan, Thanks! Yes I am up and running, but surely not 'full speed'. A bit creaky like my brass cars. The Cleveland is on my personal radar for sure, but first I must repair the lathe. Received the bearings, so when I feel less dizzy, I will take on that chore. Al, I do not know of any organization in the Netherlands that has WW1 stuff. The Netherlands was a 'neutral' country during WW1, no battles were fought on Dutch soil. At the Western front, most battles were fought on Belgian and French soil. Belgium and France have a lot of WW1 museums and organizations specializing in WW1 history and stuff. Mmm, apple cider I love it! One of the neighbors sons collected the apples of our threes and is making cider of it. Alan, do still find some time to work on your Locomobile? Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 1, 2020 Author Share Posted November 1, 2020 (edited) Friday health improved, so I started repairing the lathe. Completed the repair at Saturday morning. I am happy with the result, less noisy gearbox. Saturday morning, after completing the lathe repair, I started with the Cleveland engine line boring setup. My idea is to use the mill for this purpose. The engine just fits at the table of the mill (length wise). As this mill (Elliott U0 with universal table) is heavy and sturdy, I guess, together with some heavy iron to fix the engine and boring bar outer bearing at the table, it will do the job (see picture). For the engine and bearing fixtures I used heavy angle iron. But some milling is necessary, as the angle iron is not flat and not square enough for this purpose. Furthermore I welded some steel plates between the small and large sides of the angle iron to prevent it from vibrating. For the boring bar I use a piece of 1 1/4 " C45 steel. Just an impression of line boring setup. The green bearing is hanging loose, should be fixed at the steel plate on the left. As the engine does not fit under the overarm of the mill, I had to make an auxiliary bearing attachment (the green one on the left). Its a pity that I could not use the overarm bearing fixture for the milling bar. Furthermore, I have to make a fixture for the near end of the engine. Also that must be fixed on the milling table. Cylinder fixing plate ready to be milled, to be flat and square with respect to the table. Milling in progress. Cylinder fixture nearly ready, one of the two holes a bit on the high side.... Boring bar bearing setup detail The whole assembly of steel fixtures is rather heavy (30 lbs), well the more dead weight the better. Regards, Harm PS At the last moment, the London to Brighton Run 2020 has been cancelled (due to Corona lockdown). This is only the second cancellation since WW2. First cancellation 1947 due to petrol rationing. Edited November 1, 2020 by Sloth London to Brighton (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 17 hours ago, Sloth said: At the last moment, the London to Brighton Run 2020 has been cancelled (due to Corona lockdown). This is only the second cancellation since WW2. First cancellation 1947 due to petrol rationing. This did not help the auction of my 1903 Crestmobile at Bonhams Golden Age of Motoring sale! Jane and I are actually rather pleased that it did not sell, it is on it's way back home today. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 2, 2020 Author Share Posted November 2, 2020 25 minutes ago, Mike Macartney said: This did not help the auction of my 1903 Crestmobile at Bonhams Golden Age of Motoring sale! Jane and I are actually rather pleased that it did not sell, it is on it's way back home today. Hello Mike, I attended the Bonhams sale online. For selling the Crestmobile, I think the sale attracted the wrong public at the worst possible period in time. BTW, I was astonished about the "low ball" bid, and hoped your car would not sell. I know it sounds odd, but I am happy for you and Jane that your car did not sell 😄. Best regards, Harm 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Hello Harm, I have been quiet and busy for the past while. Fall farm work before winter, plowing and other needed jobs are now complete. What is the latest on your Cleveland and the current state of Covid-19 in your area? I am impressed with your boring bar set-up. Regards, Alan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 (edited) Hello Alan, Good to read that all your farm work is done before winter sets in. As about 100' of the hedge between our neighbor and us, died last summer (too hot and dry). We will replace the dead shrubbery with new plants. Not much is going on here. Anna and I are renovating the second floor. Our intention is to have it insulated before it gets to cold to work comfortably at it. As the roof is thatched, reed offers no insulation at all. Today we finished all the dry wall, took a lot more time than we anticipated. One of the problems with these old buildings are, that trying to make corners in rooms at right angles, and have the walls perfectly vertical is nearly impossible. So, a lot of measuring and fitting is needed. But on the end Anna and I are satisfied. Next week we will start, and (hopefully) finish, insulating the ceilings of the rooms. This afternoon I went a bit further with the line boring set up. Made the fixture for the near end of the engine (pictures tomorrow). I seems that the boring bar and the bearing holes of the engine are not quite at a right angle. Have to look at it, and correct that. At this very moment Anna and me are watching a press conference of our MP about the Covid-19 status. The numbers of Covid-19 infections are slowly deceasing, but are still too high. But most restrictions and measurements will be continued. Many hospitals are overloaded with Covid-19 patients. Operations are suspended, only emergencies are handled. We are hopeful that vaccines will be available first quarter 2021. Test and trace is going well, our military helped to build very large test centers. But I guess Christmas will be lonely, no family or friends. But we can live with that, keeping healthy is the most important issue at this moment. Regards, Harm Edited November 24, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 (edited) Started this morning with scratching a line, length wise on the boring bar (put the boring bar in the lathe an used a sharp turning tool). With this line positioned on top of the boring bar, I have some guide to center the crankshaft bearing holes exactly along the split of the castings (see pictures). This solved my worry that the crankshaft bearing holes are not positioned parallel with the boring bar. Crankshaft bearing, flywheel side of the engine. Crankshaft bearing, camshaft side of the engine. Also made the near end fixture, the near end of the engine is fixed and positioned on it. Near end engine fixture. Started to complete the "outboard" bearing assembly. Hopefully tomorrow I can assemble al the parts of the line boring setup, and make a dry run. I am anxious to see if there are some vibrations, that's my main worry about this set up. Vibrations during line boring will ruin the quality of the Babbitt bearing surface, which is of course unacceptable. Regards, Harm Edited November 19, 2020 by Sloth crooked sentence repaired (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 (edited) I like it...and you are absolutely correct that vibration has to be completely eliminated. I think it will also help to take very small cuts and, based on my experience with the hand powered boring bar, I'd say the speed and feed should be about as slow as you can make it. Edited November 21, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) Yesterday and today, I finalized the line boring setup. It took quite some time to measure all the important dimensions twice, and calculate the deviations and where necessary correct them. At long last I got everything within spec. Off center wobble of the boring bar is less than 0.0008" (I think, not bad at all for using an industrial type bearing block). I tested the whole assembly for vibration, at 47 RPM no vibration at all. At 150 RPM I feel some very light vibration. So the RPM will be set at 47. The only job left: completing the boring bar, drilling the two holes for the cutter (HSS tool steel), and come up with some form of fine adjustment for the cutter. I plan to drill the holes exactly at the center line and grind the cutter so that the top of the cutter is at the center line again. ( makes measuring and adjustment a lot easier than setting the cutter before or after center, but I am open for comment 😊) Regards, Harm Edited November 22, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 That's quite a set up Harm. Be careful with it. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 52 minutes ago, Sloth said: The only job left: completing the boring bar, drilling the two holes for the cutter (HSS tool steel), and come up with some form of fine adjustment for the cutter. I plan to drill the holes exactly at the center line and grind the cutter so that the top of the cutter is at the center line again. ( makes measuring and adjustment a lot easier than setting the cutter before or after center, but I am open for comment 😊) 47 RPM sounds about right. When I did this I was using a boring bar that was quite a bit smaller so this may not be pertinent but I drilled the hole for the bit off center by about .050. That allowed me to grind its point .050 thicker and still have it come out on the center line as well as giving me more thickness in the bar for the set screw that locks it in place. I also made the adjusting tool and if you go back through the Mitchell thread you should find it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 The set up looks quite good. On this particular engine, you don’t want anything too tight. We always try for perfection when cutting bearings.....that way we usually achieve excellence. In a one lung machine, it’s very forgiving. With today’s oil, I would build the entire thing on the far side of “loose”. Keeping everything square is important. As is making sure the rod is straight. I don’t know the status of your piston or bore......but in this application mass is probably your friend, and a cast iron piston is probably best. If making a new piston, a modern ring package will increase horsepower, reduce oil consumption, and reduce drag. What are the plans? How about photos of the piston and rod? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 (edited) On 11/22/2020 at 11:24 PM, edinmass said: The set up looks quite good. On this particular engine, you don’t want anything too tight. We always try for perfection when cutting bearings.....that way we usually achieve excellence. In a one lung machine, it’s very forgiving. With today’s oil, I would build the entire thing on the far side of “loose”. Keeping everything square is important. As is making sure the rod is straight. I don’t know the status of your piston or bore......but in this application mass is probably your friend, and a cast iron piston is probably best. If making a new piston, a modern ring package will increase horsepower, reduce oil consumption, and reduce drag. What are the plans? How about photos of the piston and rod? Thanks Ed, I measured the rod, it seems straight but needs a new bearing (Babbitt-ed shells). No bearing shells came with it. The rod is very heavy, I guess 8 Lbs, length center of piston pin to center of bearing 13 5/8". The piston seems OK, cast iron and also very heavy, I guess 8 Lbs, diameter of piston 4 3/4", length 5". So the reciprocating mass (without the fly wheel) is already a lot. As the piston fits very nicely in the cylinder, I will use it as it is. But I have my doubt about the piston rings, they seem a bit weak. I will weigh the piston and rod tomorrow. Piston, connecting rod, piston pin and shims. Inside picture of piston Piston detail of the piston rings Connecting rod. Regards, Harm Edited November 24, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 On 11/22/2020 at 9:58 PM, JV Puleo said: 47 RPM sounds about right. When I did this I was using a boring bar that was quite a bit smaller so this may not be pertinent but I drilled the hole for the bit off center by about .050. That allowed me to grind its point .050 thicker and still have it come out on the center line as well as giving me more thickness in the bar for the set screw that locks it in place. I also made the adjusting tool and if you go back through the Mitchell thread you should find it. Hello Joe, Good tip, I will do the same, as there is not much meat for the set screw. Still looking for the adjusting tool, I must admit I started again at page one (read it before), fascinating thread. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 I'll photograph them tomorrow and post them so you don't have to sift through the entire thread. It's so long I'm not sure I could find it. I had to make one for the 3/4" boring bar I made to do the cam shaft and I also fitted a new micrometer head to the adjusting tool that actually goes with the 1-1/4" bar the line boring machine is designed to use... the new micrometer head reads in tenths of a thousandth. What is the diameter of your boring bar? jp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Harm, if you are making the boring bar, and it is large enough in diameter, the "factory" bar I have has blind holes for the boring bit. A light spring goes under the the bit to press it up against the micrometer face. This is clearly the way to go. I wasn't able to do that with the small bar I made and, while it worked, it was difficult to hold a tolerance smaller than about .002. That wasn't a problem in my case because I was making a bushing to fit the bored hole but in your case I think it might be critical to getting a really precise measurement. Also, I've no idea where you'd get those wide piston rings so if you use the original piston you may have to go with them. Also, oil control rings weren't invented until the early 20s. I think I would try to find an aluminum piston - even if you have to use one from a diesel truck. That will probably be fairly heavy but will allow you to uses modern rings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 There is a shop in England that makes rings on special order, and have a reputation of doing a good job for reasonable money. Modern ring package would increase horse power, give better ignition burn, and would offer oil control. I must admit as a purist, I would run the factory piston........it will help keep the mosquitos under control!👍 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 13 hours ago, JV Puleo said: I'll photograph them tomorrow and post them so you don't have to sift through the entire thread. It's so long I'm not sure I could find it. I had to make one for the 3/4" boring bar I made to do the cam shaft and I also fitted a new micrometer head to the adjusting tool that actually goes with the 1-1/4" bar the line boring machine is designed to use... the new micrometer head reads in tenths of a thousandth. What is the diameter of your boring bar? jp Hello Joe, Taking photographs would be very nice of you. The diameter of the boring bar is 1 3/16". Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 Today I weighted the piston: 9 Lbs, connecting rod: 6 Lbs. Cleaned both thoroughly, both are in remarkable good condition. So I decided to use them as is. Will go after new piston rings, Ed you mentioned a company in England, do you have a name of the company. I googled, but found several companies making piston rings, I must say I prefer the one which you can recommend. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) For measuring the boring diameter...this is the tool I made. It was awkward to use because for every adjustment the bar had to be withdrawn from the hole and the tool assembled on it. I failed to take a picture of the bottom but there is a hole there. The micrometer head was set to the right depth and it was assembled on the shaft over the bit which was then loosened through one of the side holes and pushed up to meet the face of the micrometer. The set screw that held the bit in place was accesses through the side holes. Because the bar was only 3/4" in diameter, I was not able to use a blind hole with a spring. It was important to clamp the micrometer head in place..I tried a set screw but even with very low pressure it restricted the ability of the micrometer screw to move. This is the adjustment tool for the 1-1/4" bar. I think you could do something similar...although I didn't know how to make the spring. The micrometer head and holder on the tool is the one I made for the tenths reading micrometer head. The head and holder to the right are the original ones. And yes, I did put a hot set of vice grips on the chair! That was quite a long time ago. Edited November 25, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 3 hours ago, JV Puleo said: For measuring the boring diameter...this is the tool I made. It was awkward to use because for every adjustment the bar had to be withdrawn from the hole and the tool assembled on it. I failed to take a picture of the bottom but there is a hole there. The micrometer head was set to the right depth and it was assembled on the shaft over the bit which was then loosened through one of the side holes and pushed up to meet the face of the micrometer. The set screw that held the bit in place was accesses through the side holes. Because the bar was only 3/4" in diameter, I was not able to use a blind hole with a spring. It was important to clamp the micrometer head in place..I tried a set screw but even with very low pressure it restricted the ability of the micrometer screw to move. This is the adjustment tool for the 1-1/4" bar. I think you could do something similar...although I didn't know how to make the spring. The micrometer head and holder on the tool is the one I made for the tenths reading micrometer head. The head and holder to the right are the original ones. And yes, I did put a hot set of vice grips on the chair! That was quite a long time ago. Hello Joe, Thank you very much for the pictures. Clamping the adjustment tool on the boring bar is the way to go. In the past, I Babbitt-ed the bearings of my Flanders. Adjusting the tool bit was a hell of a job. Took ages to get it right. Never thought to clamp the adjusting tool on the boring bar. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) On my Kwick - Way the cutter is set up with a similar set up on a v block. It doesn’t go around the bar, it sites on it and is held in place by hand pressure. Takes a while to get the hang of it. We practiced on several old sets of mains trying to hold 3/10th of an inch on a Pierce nine main bearing engine.........we usually keep all within the 3/10’s. Here is our set up on a Pierce V-12. Next page photo is the machine variable speed drive we made for the bar.......finish cuts are much better than by hand. Edited November 25, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 Custom made drive unit......works great. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 I hadn't thought of just holding the fixture up to the bar. It makes sense and would be a lot easier to make. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 (edited) Yesterday morning I started to replace the broken down 3 axis digital readout display of my lathe. The display started to smoke two month ago, and as we all know, electronic devices run on smoke. So when the smoke left the display, its 'kaput'. Tried to repair it, but as the display is of Chinese origin, and at least 10 years old, that attempt came to nothing. I ordered a new one, they are not expensive I payed $90,- and that includes "free shipping". Three weeks ago the package arrived and also did the import duty bill of our customs department. On the end the display costs are $130,-, not too bad but still... 😒. The old display and the glass scales are connected by non standard 5 pin round plugs. The new display came with 9 pin mini-D plugs, so I had to replace the plugs of the scales by D-mini plugs. Not much of a problem, but the wire colors and the pin numbering did not fit the info what came with the display. Google came up with a lot of info, but not what I needed. So, out with the oscilloscope and measuring the signals. Well, interesting, all three used different wire colors for the same signals. Changing afterwards the plugs, was a one hour job. I am quite happy with the result. With the display came a user manual describing a lot of nice functions I will probably never use. The new 3-axis digital read out display. Left the "new" plug, right the old obsolete plug. Today, I started making the measuring tools I need for measuring the bearings of the engine, during line boring. When I Babbitt-ed the engine bearings of the Flanders 20, I made some tools. Kept them well stored and hoped to use them, but you guested it, no way. Different dimensions. Tomorrow I begin making a new set, below pictures what I used for the Flanders. The micrometer shown above, came from a vandalized Russian "thing". I have no idea what it was used for, I bought it, together with a lot of useful micrometers at the end of the 1980's, that's when the iron curtain came down. During that time, many Russian tool traders came to Germany and the Nederlands. I visited very often swap markets, and bought a lot of, really good quality, stuff from them. Only problem, nearly all sentences on the tools and manuals are Cyrillic. Not so easy to translate. Google has some problems with Russian technical descriptions..... Luckily the numbers are Arabic. Regards, Harm Edited December 19, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Our bar’s factory set up is similar.......but uses a v block. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Harm, I used two modern rings in each ring groove instead of the one wide ring. My original rings were 1/4" wide and new rings are 1/8". I used two sets of compression rings and two oil rings in the final groove. There is a company here in the states that provides rings for hit n miss and tractor motors. I'll look up the name of the company if you need it. They will sell you most anything. Allen 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Dave Reed Would be able to help with rings. Otto Gas Engine Works Starbolt should be able to help as well. https://enginads.com/starbolt/ Edited December 14, 2020 by Terry Harper (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Attached is some very basic info on fabricating rings if you want to have a go at it yourself. Using the formula you will need to adjust the wall pressure a bit since the values shown in the table are for low pressure steam applications with low wall pressure where as an internal combustion engine can have wall pressures that exceed 40 PSI. Edited December 14, 2020 by Terry Harper (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) Hello, Made two tools for measuring the height of the cutting tool bit, relative to the boring bar. Indicators for measuring and adjusting cutting tool bit @edinmass I experimented a bit with the half round block and the V block. I think the V block is a bit easier to use, and a easier to make. So I opted for the V block design. The setting (adjusting) tool is on the right of the picture. The black hand secures the micrometer. As the micrometer I used came from an old Russian "thing", I had to make a pocket to accommodate it. Each division on the scale is 0.0004", the same as on the indicator on the left. Today I removed the piston rings. Well, I was in for a surprise. As can be seen on the picture below, the rings are very worn on the under side. Most of the burned oil accumulated at the under side behind the rings (remember its a horizontal engine). The thickness of the "unworn" side 3/16" (4.75 mm) , the worn side less than 1/8". The piston seems in good condition show no wear at all, dimension at the skirt 4 3/4". At the top above the first ring 1/16" less. Furthermore the rings are fixed in the grove by a small pin and the rings are slotted. Quite an elaborate design, and expensive to make I guess. The motor number and ring number are neatly stamped into the inside of the rings ( 55-1, 55-2 and 55-3). They are all three the same, no recognizable oil ring.... Piston ring number 1 (top ring). No not photographic distortion, just plain wear. Piston ring with hole for the pin and the slotted ends. Piston with some coal buildup, after cleaning some evidence of the (dull?) tuning tools can be seen. The ridges are hardly visible on the piston it self, even with my thumbnail they can't be detected. At the groves the numbers of the rings are also stamped in, again 55-1, 55-2 and 55-3. Piston number 55. Looks bad, but in reality is very smooth, dull tuning tool? Its nice to see that all the engine parts are numbered, as they have all the same number (55) I can be sure its an original engine. Furthermore, as this engine is build before maintaining high accuracy of the dimensions (as Leland -Cadillac- did) every part was hand fitted. So in a production environment, numbering all parts saved the day 😉. @AHA: I worry a bit, that modern rings are a bit to "stiff" for such a low power engine, but I might be wrong on that. May I ask, what kind of engine did you put modern rings on? @AHA and Terry Harper: gentlemen thank you for the links to ring suppliers. I will send them pictures and asking if they can make the slots in the rings. I will keep you informed. @Terry Harper: yes you are right, if I can not buy the rings I have to make them. Thank you for the info, very useful and interesting. But I must admit, it will be the last resort 😉. Well, I in the afternoon I continued with the boring bar. Drilling the first hole I broke a drill, the end is stuck deep in the bar. Got i out by drilling at the opposite side. OK, tapping a 1/4" UNF thread would not be too difficult, wouldn't? But half way the tap broke (at the same point where the drill gave up the ghost. I must say, I can't remember when I broke a tap. Did not improve my mood, to say the least...🤬. Covid-19, Last Monday, 14th of December 2020, our PM gave a TV speech. He announced a nearly total lock down of the country. All shops, with exception of shops selling food and pharmacies, are closed at midnight the same night. No relaxation of rules at Christmas and New Year festivities. Schools and Universities are closed. At home not more than 2 guests, at Christmas 3 guests. Hotels, restaurants and cafe's are closed. Sport accommodations, theaters, cinemas, swimming accommodations etc, all closed. Traveling, only if absolutely necessary, again only working at home, and so on and so forth. All this till at least the 19th of January 2021. Germany: the same measurements as in the Netherlands, due Wednesday the 16th. Italy, Denmark, Norway and Sweden will follow very soon. Great Britain: this evening "hell broke loose", Boris Johnson announced a Tier4 lock down for London, the South and the East. All Christmas festivities are canceled, no Christmas shopping no traveling. Stay at home! A real disaster for all people involved, most of the people could not make preparations for a lock down of this kind. The reason for this draconian lock down: A new kind, fast spreading strain of Covid-19 virus is going around. Experts hope that the current vaccine will be effective for this strain, but nobody knows for sure. Regards, Harm Edited December 20, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) I’m thinking remove the ring pin from the piston, make new cast iron rings, run a hone through the cylinder.......and all will be well. Remember you have the advantage of modern oil today. You could also run modern rings and only install pairs on the top and bottom groove. Three pairs of modern rings would be too much drag. After engine break in, I would go to 100 percent synthetic oil........straight 30. Edited December 19, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted December 24, 2020 Author Share Posted December 24, 2020 (edited) Tuesday, I completed the boring bar. The suggestion of JV Puleo (Joe thanks!), to put a small spring under the tool bit, works excellent. I used a part of the spring of a ballpoint, not too weak and not too stiff. After some experimenting with the tool bit set up tools, I decided not to clamp the tools on the boring bar for set up. The space between the mill and the engine casting is too small, just no wiggle room enough. Yesterday and today, I made the bushings for the bearing shells and the bush for the cushion block (bearing at the end of the crankshaft). I have to turn one other bush for the con rod bearing shells. I expect next week, to split the bushings into shells, than to crush fit the shells into the engine casting and con rod. If they fit, then, at last I can start pouring Babbitt. Turning inside hole of bearing bush. Boring bar, cushion block bush and two crankshaft bearing bushings. The same as above. The good wishes on the picture (Dutch language) means: Have a Nice Christmas and a happy New Year 🎄 Dear forum friends, We hope 2021 will be less emotional and stressful. The events of 2020 are more than enough for the rest of our lives . Anna and I wish you all and your families, a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Best regards, Harm and Anna 🎄 Edited December 24, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 Hello Harm, Here in the US we are just starting on Christmas Eve activities. Thanks for your note above with a kind Christmas and New Years wish. Even though we have all been living through this Pandemic and will reflect in the future how this event has been a "bugger", the best to everyone. Merry Christmas and Happy New Years from the Mountain west of the USA. Regards, Alan And Darlene PS: keep up the good work on the Cleveland.... 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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