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Restoration of 1930 Dodge DD6 Coupe


3macboys

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2 hours ago, stakeside said:

My 29 Dodge DA 6 had cracks on the top of block near the studs. Do little clearance between stud and block edge I believe the crack occurred during engine removal in a previous life. The treads were repairable. 

This leads to the question of how to remove an engine with out damaging the block? Surely lifting from the head studs is not a good idea.

After replacing the head with one from another block we discovered what looked like the same issue.  After some head scratching I came to the conclusion that the real issue was most likely the compression washers on the spark plugs, which after putting new ones on solved the issue - basically I got caught over thinking things instead of subscribing to the KISS Theory.  

 

Now as for lifting the block I try to ensure that the chain is always tight under the bolt so that there is no free play - I'm definitely far from an engineer but in my mind if everything is buttoned up tight there is less room for things to get pulled in unintended directions and risk stretching the threads, breaking a bolt or cracking something by stress/force being applied in a sudden movement.  There are definitely those on here much wiser than I about such things though.

 

Don  

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  • 5 weeks later...

The progress is slowly moving along - Brake lines are all in but a bit of delay on the body shop - too much collision work and not enough space.  Fortunately they are in the process of putting up a new building just for restoration type work that will be completed this month and this car is first in line, fingers crossed.  In the meantime we are working on getting the interior pieces sorted as far as the seat frame and springs to keep things moving and ready for when the body comes back.  I have two wooden frames but no springs.  If anyone has pictures of the interior for a coupe, particularly of the seat base and bare springs would be greatly appreciated.

 

Don  

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On 11/11/2020 at 1:10 PM, nearchoclatetown said:

A soft sling will not cause this damage. 

Definitely use soft sling. The clearance between studs and block edge to small. Will take much to crack the block. My block had same problem but was repairable with thread insert.

Ant ideas on best way to use soft sling are welcome.

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  • 2 weeks later...

While waiting for the rad to come back and the body shop to take the body in I decided to tackle the few pieces of wood in the car, mostly being the floor boards.  Even though they won't be seen by many by the time the car is done I still wanted to give them a good cleaning and I'll seal them later with some spar varnish just to give them some protection.  I'm cleaning them just with a mixture of methyl hydrate and lacquer thinner to keep the patina of the original wood.   Here's a few before and after pictures just to show the progress.

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  • 4 months later...

The day finally came - the body is off to the body shop.  Needless to say that this set up got a few looks on the way but the 10 mile drive only had two turns and good roads the whole way.  A friend had built the cart that the body is on - somewhere there is a hospital bed missing its wheels I'm sure

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