Jump to content

Restoration of 1930 Dodge DD6 Coupe


Recommended Posts

I've been reading a lot on here and decided that it was finally time to post what I've been working on.  This was an abandoned project that was picked up a few years ago and last year about this time the chassis was moved into it's current location for the winter as the space is a lot cheaper to heat than the full shop.  The plan was to have the motor running by Christmas....so far it's a good thing that we didn't specify which Christmas.  So far the chassis has been painted, the brake cylinders rebuilt and new lines have been started.  I'm currently working on painting the rims and brake drums and getting them back on the chassis.  I will up with the progress as I go along.  One thing that I am looking for is if anyone has pictures of the carb linkage.  I have two spare motors but neither of them have the linkage either.  

DSC_0959.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

One wheel done - three to go.  I used a two coats of a good quality marine paint.  It flowed out well and should hopefully do the trick long term being suited to both wood and paint.  The rims aren't perfect but our intention is for the car to be a driver and enjoyed and not a show car when we are done.  My niece will do the pin stripping of the spokes before the wheels go back on the chassis.  

DSC_0023.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

So the polishing begins.  I'm hoping someone can help me out - I'm looking to find out if the inside area of the outer detail ring was painted on the hubcaps.  The ones that I have started to polish are bare aluminum, however, I have another set that are chromed with that area painted on those one.  The second set may have come off the front axle from a 31 that I have, I just can't remember now if that's where they came from or in another collection of parts.  Any help is appreciated.

 

Don 

DSC_0106.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

After getting side tracked for the last couple of months I just picked the gas tank up from paint.  Straps are soaking in Evaporust before they get a repaint.  Hopefully by the end of the week will be a bit more progress.   1314500429_20200203_1524331.thumb.jpg.8ae98a21d7a33b9f4b931d67ff2bee73.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/8/2019 at 6:36 PM, 3macboys said:

DSC_0963.JPG

What carb is this? Is it an aftermarket one. Most important is having one that works.

Was the Carter carb the original one?

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, stakeside said:

What carb is this? Is it an aftermarket one. Most important is having one that works.

Was the Carter carb the original one?

This was the carb that was on the car when we got it.  One of the other fellows on here will be far more knowledgeable than I about what was original but I think that the Carter may have been.  I've got three motors, two with the same Bendix carb and I can't recall off the top of my head what the third carb is and what looks like three different linkage set ups so I'm not sure if there was a lot of after purchase tinkering or mid year changes to these cars. I know that the bodies did have a mid year change in the hood.  

Edited by 3macboys (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

The carb shown is a Zenith (Bendix was the parent company to Zenith), and is a modern (well post WWII) carb.

 

Carter shows the original to be an RT-08 (similar to the DRT-08 in the picture by DC8-Dave). Carter specified the RT-08 for 1930, and the DRT-08 for 1931.

 

Quite a few folks go with the more modern carb because of cost.

 

Jon.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

This Zenith is exactly like the carb on my mid '60's International 140 tractor, it's about 25-30 hp. Not slamming the carb, it works quite well. 

That might explain why two motors  ended up with those carbs- easier to replace it with what was on hand than to rebuild the original

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Got the gas tank installed last week and a new line ran.  Dropped the oil out of the motor again - it turns freely but has not been fired as of yet.  I want to run some evapo rust through the water passages and rad first but looking for recommendations for the correct oil weight to use.  My first thought is straight 30W but looking for any ideas.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

With a nod to Matt Harwood now have Evapo Rust running through the water jackets and passages.  Brain dead moment of the day was forgetting to take the thermostat out first.  Took a few minutes to figure out why it wasn't filling the block through the housing and kept running out then I clued in!   I picked up a pond pump for $35 from Princess Auto - the Canadian version of Harbor Freight along with the tubing for another 20 bucks.  

 

Fuel pump is working, next up is getting spark and seeing if we can't get the motor running.  

20200303_140855.jpg

Edited by 3macboys (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

After a couple of days of Evapo Rust through the block with no more color change I switched the set up to run through the rad.  I had one of those tire shop water tanks kicking around to sit it in.  After running for about an hour noticed where there are two leaks just to the left of center of the core.  The wet area at the bottom was from me pouring the bucket of fluid into the tank.   My question is - Can these be fixed? or am I looking at a re-core?  Of course this is also with no pressure to the rad.  I am planning at letting this run for a couple of days to see if anything else shows up.  

20200305_134040.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

What sort of pressure did these rads use?  I'm thinking before I decide which direction to take I should put some pressure to it - if there are leaks with no pressure, I'm afraid more may show up with pressure.  I'm trying to resist my father's temptation to put a can of Barr's Leak in there and would rather do it right and do it once.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, keiser31 said:

Those early DB radiators ran with no pressure.

Thank you, I'm beginning to think that I may have knocked the hose out of the top of the rad and that might be what the streaks are from.  Definitely need to do a little more testing and flowing of fluid through the rad before I decide which way to go

Link to post
Share on other sites

Last month I took my '36 Dodge rad to a professional rad shop in London Ontario (BS&B Radiator) who have been in business a LONG time. I thought the rad was OK -just wanted it checked.

WELL it is in really bad shape. lots of leaks and the top tank is spider webbed with stress and age cracks. So now the fun begins. I'm going to contact the folks in England to get a quote on a core. But it would be much better if I could find a useable original. BS&B said they could put a modern core in it but I really want to stay with the original style. And the top and bottom tanks are not good so.......

I spoke with Maine Radiator and they said they will only work through a rad shop, not direct to the customer.:angry:. They get their cores from England.

So if there's a way to get cores from the UK at an affordable??? price maybe we could put in a joint order. Or not. I'm open to suggestions.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

Last month I took my '36 Dodge rad to a professional rad shop in London Ontario (BS&B Radiator) who have been in business a LONG time. I thought the rad was OK -just wanted it checked.

WELL it is in really bad shape. lots of leaks and the top tank is spider webbed with stress and age cracks. So now the fun begins. I'm going to contact the folks in England to get a quote on a core. But it would be much better if I could find a useable original. BS&B said they could put a modern core in it but I really want to stay with the original style. And the top and bottom tanks are not good so.......

I spoke with Maine Radiator and they said they will only work through a rad shop, not direct to the customer.:angry:. They get their cores from England.

So if there's a way to get cores from the UK at an affordable??? price maybe we could put in a joint order. Or not. I'm open to suggestions.

I think that I'm going to be in the same position with this one, after another full day of running Evapo Rust through it the entire center section was rust stained on both sides.  I was thinking of trying BS&B as well but I guess that's a no go.  All the old rad guys around here are gone now.  I'll do some more digging and get mine tested to see just what I'm in for but an order from the UK might be the ticket.  

 

Anyone else gone that route lately?

 

Don  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys

Try  a company called "Replicore" in New Zealand, I recored my 1930 Dodge 8 with one of their cores, they make all types of cores from vintage cars to oil coolers for vintage aircraft. NZ is a bit closer than England I reckon, transit might be a bit cheaper????.

Just interesting to view their web site even if you don't purchase from them

 

Kevin BC

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Kevin bc said:

Hi guys

Try  a company called "Replicore" in New Zealand, I recored my 1930 Dodge 8 with one of their cores, they make all types of cores from vintage cars to oil coolers for vintage aircraft. NZ is a bit closer than England I reckon, transit might be a bit cheaper????.

Just interesting to view their web site even if you don't purchase from them

 

Kevin BC

NZ is quite a bit further away but shipping overseas of any sort has gotten unreal.  For a rad shipping by surface freight is likely going to be the most cost effective and who's kidding who, none of us move that fast on these projects that we can't wait for the ship to arrive instead of the airplane.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

After much head scratching and hand wringing we finally have ignition!  Now to get a get fully running motor.  I will have to get some pictures but the culprit to our ignition problem was the fibre bushing that insulates the condenser connecting bolt as it passes through the body of the distributor and connects to the points on the inside.  The bushing was missing and the bolt was shorting out on the body - thankfully we had a spare distributor to source the missing part from.   

Link to post
Share on other sites

Look at Ace Radiator in Fort Wayne Indiana they have a web site and been business since 47  they fixed up in a week and was not over priced    

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

This spot here on the distributor was the guilty location shorting out the bolt that passes through the body there.  There's supposed to be a fibre bushing around the bolt that was missing.  But as one problem gets resolved another crops up. While trying to fire the motor further we discovered that exhaust gas was exiting out beside the number 6 cylinder spark plug and after playing around a bit more discovered that the there is a hairline crack in the head - so back to the spare parts bin to raid a head off a spare motor.  On the upside, at least at first blush the top end looks clean but we'll get a closer look tomorrow.

20200526_133319.jpg

20200526_133337.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

It runs!  We finally got the engine to fire and it runs like a top!  The wheels are out being pinstriped and I hope to have them back soon.  Bad news on the rad is that it needs to be re-cored and just awaiting the price for that one.  We are currently getting the exhaust fitted and trying to source engine paint in the appropriate colour.  Hopefully one of the local shops is able to either find or make a match.  I'll post some more pictures as more comes back together.  The body is slated to go to be painted in the next couple of weeks - actually making some real progress now.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great news I can't help you with the engine paint color Mine on my 2249 Senior is a Battle Ship Grey color I am not sure when Chrysler changed to silver Keep up the good work 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...