3macboys

Restoration of 1930 Dodge DD6 Coupe

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I've been reading a lot on here and decided that it was finally time to post what I've been working on.  This was an abandoned project that was picked up a few years ago and last year about this time the chassis was moved into it's current location for the winter as the space is a lot cheaper to heat than the full shop.  The plan was to have the motor running by Christmas....so far it's a good thing that we didn't specify which Christmas.  So far the chassis has been painted, the brake cylinders rebuilt and new lines have been started.  I'm currently working on painting the rims and brake drums and getting them back on the chassis.  I will up with the progress as I go along.  One thing that I am looking for is if anyone has pictures of the carb linkage.  I have two spare motors but neither of them have the linkage either.  

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I will add a couple of more pictures - I apologize that I haven't figured out how to adjust the size of the files to get them all into one post.  

DSC_0960.JPG

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The last one for tonight - the body is fairly solid and I hope to have it off to the body shop in the next month or so for paint.  

DSC_0964.JPG

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2 hours ago, 3macboys said:

I've been reading a lot on here and decided that it was finally time to post what I've been working on.  This was an abandoned project that was picked up a few years ago and last year about this time the chassis was moved into it's current location for the winter as the space is a lot cheaper to heat than the full shop.  The plan was to have the motor running by Christmas....so far it's a good thing that we didn't specify which Christmas.  So far the chassis has been painted, the brake cylinders rebuilt and new lines have been started.  I'm currently working on painting the rims and brake drums and getting them back on the chassis.  I will up with the progress as I go along.  One thing that I am looking for is if anyone has pictures of the carb linkage.  I have two spare motors but neither of them have the linkage either.  

DSC_0959.JPG

 

These pictures might be of some help.

 

 

P1010800.jpg

1930 DODGE 031.jpg

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One wheel done - three to go.  I used a two coats of a good quality marine paint.  It flowed out well and should hopefully do the trick long term being suited to both wood and paint.  The rims aren't perfect but our intention is for the car to be a driver and enjoyed and not a show car when we are done.  My niece will do the pin stripping of the spokes before the wheels go back on the chassis.  

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So the polishing begins.  I'm hoping someone can help me out - I'm looking to find out if the inside area of the outer detail ring was painted on the hubcaps.  The ones that I have started to polish are bare aluminum, however, I have another set that are chromed with that area painted on those one.  The second set may have come off the front axle from a 31 that I have, I just can't remember now if that's where they came from or in another collection of parts.  Any help is appreciated.

 

Don 

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Thank you sir!  I couldn't find anything online with that much detail.  Don 

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Hello Don,

                     John is correct in his picture. Here is what a properly restored DD-6 artillery wheel and hubcap should look like.

S5004490.jpg

P1010810a.jpg

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That is excellent!  I had some other wheels that had traces of the pin striping on them as a reference but none had the complete details.  Don  

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Hello Don,

                   Please remember when selecting hubcaps for your DD-6 that the 1929-30 DA-6 and the 1930-31 DD-6 wood artillery wheel hubcap look the same on the front side but they are very much different on the backside. The DC-8 and the DD-6 hubcaps have two notches on the backside to facilitate the use on the hubcap wrench. Here are two images that will show you what I am talking about. If you mistakenly put DA-6 hubcaps on your DD-6 you could receive a nasty visit from the originally police:) 

hubcap wrench 001.jpg

IMG_0439.JPG

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Why do I suspect that the bit of polishing that I have done will be all for not?  But now I have another excuse to go to the shop.  

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After getting side tracked for the last couple of months I just picked the gas tank up from paint.  Straps are soaking in Evaporust before they get a repaint.  Hopefully by the end of the week will be a bit more progress.   1314500429_20200203_1524331.thumb.jpg.8ae98a21d7a33b9f4b931d67ff2bee73.jpg

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On 10/8/2019 at 6:36 PM, 3macboys said:

DSC_0963.JPG

What carb is this? Is it an aftermarket one. Most important is having one that works.

Was the Carter carb the original one?

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1 hour ago, stakeside said:

What carb is this? Is it an aftermarket one. Most important is having one that works.

Was the Carter carb the original one?

This was the carb that was on the car when we got it.  One of the other fellows on here will be far more knowledgeable than I about what was original but I think that the Carter may have been.  I've got three motors, two with the same Bendix carb and I can't recall off the top of my head what the third carb is and what looks like three different linkage set ups so I'm not sure if there was a lot of after purchase tinkering or mid year changes to these cars. I know that the bodies did have a mid year change in the hood.  

Edited by 3macboys (see edit history)

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The carb shown is a Zenith (Bendix was the parent company to Zenith), and is a modern (well post WWII) carb.

 

Carter shows the original to be an RT-08 (similar to the DRT-08 in the picture by DC8-Dave). Carter specified the RT-08 for 1930, and the DRT-08 for 1931.

 

Quite a few folks go with the more modern carb because of cost.

 

Jon.

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This Zenith is exactly like the carb on my mid '60's International 140 tractor, it's about 25-30 hp. Not slamming the carb, it works quite well. 

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16 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

This Zenith is exactly like the carb on my mid '60's International 140 tractor, it's about 25-30 hp. Not slamming the carb, it works quite well. 

That might explain why two motors  ended up with those carbs- easier to replace it with what was on hand than to rebuild the original

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Got the gas tank installed last week and a new line ran.  Dropped the oil out of the motor again - it turns freely but has not been fired as of yet.  I want to run some evapo rust through the water passages and rad first but looking for recommendations for the correct oil weight to use.  My first thought is straight 30W but looking for any ideas.  

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