Narve N

Hydrochloric acid works wonders on 1929/30 FEDCO plaques

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I have finally tested the use of paint remover and acid to clear paint and rust from an unreadable FEDCO plate. Unlike the versions preceding a Series 65/75, these are commonly very difficult to read without guesswork as the letters are entangled in the general pattern of the FEDCO plate. Here is the plate before starting, only the top two letters are visible, and second image while the paint remover is doing its job.

 

959996844_FEDCOS6576-83-18CT1910syrevask(1)fr.thumb.jpg.20e979584cf3f0a219fab15205bb9582.jpg713934903_FEDCOS6576-83-18CT1910syrevask(2)mlingsfjernar.thumb.jpg.757ade9522d98b1d35008b05d3c3d635.jpg

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

The I used 4 + 4 minutes of 30% hydrochloric acid for the third picture with much improvement. And finally 10+10 minutes including using a fine combed wire brush in between. Finally water cleansing to get rid of the acid, and now all letters of LS831E are clearly visible.

 

1759306292_FEDCOS6576-83-18CT1910syrevask(4)1sterundesyrevask.thumb.jpg.74578b076af09df7b7a8bc532fa321d2.jpg528595728_FEDCOS6576-83-18CT1910syrevask(5)15minuttsyreplussbrste.thumb.jpg.c6f4f1a9b6871aaff79bea6ce2310c9c.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by Narve N
Too many images, not friend with your software (see edit history)

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To finish off I added some black paint and wiped off the paint from high points. Now even the FEDCO name at the bottom can be read. Then I did the same with the badge from another of the 71 Tourings made, and found it to be #LS831S = 768316, two digits away and another of the 11 cars made in July 1928. Guess they all were shipped to Norway?

 

1131321201_FEDCOS6576-83-18CT1910syrevask(6)svartfargeutenblitz.thumb.jpg.3e33ac8b32728de18c5d047fd6f0e2cb.jpg1009919380_FEDCOS6576-83-16CT-II1910syrevask(2).thumb.jpg.6730da5ec89eb1bb18c0373e1d567449.jpg

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Well done, that is a remarkable difference.

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9 hours ago, keiser31 said:

That looks to be #LS831E to me.

Apologies, the main subject FECO badge is LS831E, the second one on a grey panel is LS831S. I did write up the numbers in an earlier version, but the AACA option of "insert a picture randomly into your text and delete everything when you try to correct it" made me do everything 3 times and in the final version the letters were forgotten.

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16 hours ago, Narve N said:

Apologies, the main subject FECO badge is LS831E, the second one on a grey panel is LS831S. I did write up the numbers in an earlier version, but the AACA option of "insert a picture randomly into your text and delete everything when you try to correct it" made me do everything 3 times and in the final version the letters were forgotten.

 

Amazing that you have two FedCo tags that are only two cars apart in the sequence. For what it is worth:

Serial Number LS-831-E
Found in range LS-400-P to LD-999-D
Serial 4318 of 35999
Year 1928
Make Chrysler
Model Name 65
Model Code P
Plant Detroit
Engine 6 cylinder 195.6 cu.in. L-head
Wheelbase 112 3/4 inches
FedCo Number LS-831-E

 

And:

Serial Number LS-831-S
Found in range LS-400-P to LD-999-D
Serial 4316 of 35999
Year 1928
Make Chrysler
Model Name 65
Model Code P
Plant Detroit
Engine 6 cylinder 195.6 cu.in. L-head
Wheelbase 112 3/4 inches
FedCo Number LS-831-S

 

Both from my Chrysler FedCo/Serial Number/VIN lookup tool at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin

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8 hours ago, ply33 said:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Both from my Chrysler FedCo/Serial Number/VIN lookup tool at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin

That is a neat tool, I tried it with the FEDCO of my Canada made Series 65 and it worked superbly.

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If you get a new toy is often difficult to stop playing with it.

My Series 65 engine had its casting/parts number (40629-4) fairly visible in the accumulated 90 years of rust and dirt, but unlike my newer Series 65 engines there was no evidence of a casting date. That is until I applied acid and wirebrush scrubbing around the casting number. Now it has become an engine just made before Christmas 1928 and as a bonus the name Hercules appeared below the casting #.

Anyone know more about this, was Hercules an outside engine block supplier? Car is Canadian by the way.

 

I also applied acid to the engine number which now stands out almost as it was made yesterday.

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the advice Narve N, you have done a great job bringing up the numbers !

 

ply33 thanks very much for the link. That is great - the FEDCO plate CL678D gives the following info:

 

331335263_29ChryslerFEDCO.PNG.abec3c06a37eddf650fa9f3958765f83.PNG70772474_FEDCO2.thumb.jpg.1e2d30f2e394cfaf4ffd21f4eb70cdd8.jpg

 

Thank you,

 

Piston.Broke

Edited by Piston.Broke (see edit history)

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Hi, 

I’m no expert, but I couldn’t make out the numbers on my Fedco plate, but being fussy I didn’t want to mask it out to paint the dash, so I drilled out the 2 spotwelds from the rear to remove it, Then when I looked at the rear of the plate the letters and number were as clear as day, even though backwards. I wonder if anyone else has used this method.

 

Cheers Dave 

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2 hours ago, Dave Phillips said:

Hi, 

I’m no expert, but I couldn’t make out the numbers on my Fedco plate, but being fussy I didn’t want to mask it out to paint the dash, so I drilled out the 2 spotwelds from the rear to remove it, Then when I looked at the rear of the plate the letters and number were as clear as day, even though backwards. I wonder if anyone else has used this method.

 

 

Dave, I never tried this but wish I had known about either method a few years back when I had to get a replacement VIN for a Series 65 with unreadable FEDCO plate. Your reverse-reading method would likely be last resort as some authorities (your DMV wherever you are) will frown upon drilled out spotwelds.

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11 hours ago, Narve N said:

 

 

Dave, I never tried this but wish I had known about either method a few years back when I had to get a replacement VIN for a Series 65 with unreadable FEDCO plate. Your reverse-reading method would likely be last resort as some authorities (your DMV wherever you are) will frown upon drilled out spotwelds.


I was very careful drilling it out , I made sure not to mark the plate at all, then I used some two pack glue to refit it, you would never know.  I even drilled some spot weld marks before I painted it.
I’m in the UK and once the car is registered over here, the DVLA  (our DMV) are not really interested in old cars. We get free road tax and no inspections after a car is 40 years old, all you need to do is insure it.

Stay Safe Dave

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Hello Narve & Dave,

                                     Removing the FEDCO plate should be the last resort but with many open cars it is the only way that they can ever be read. I have read many dozens of FEDCO serial number plates and a few fellows have removed them carefully and sent them to me from different parts of the US and Canada. On most of them, a little light glass bead blasting and they are much easier to read. Here are a few that I have read for people over the years, all of which have resulted in getting a build card from Chrysler. One thing I have done is to remove FEDCO plates from parts cars and clean and scan the front and back side at 2400 dpi and compile a collection of letters and numbers to assist myself in reading these plates. 

Jim Morley's DC-8.jpg

My Roadster's Original Plate.jpg

Van Larson-2.jpg

Image.jpg

Z-FEDCO Back Side Letter D .jpg

Z-FEDCO Back Side Letter E .jpg

Z-FEDCO Back Side Letter H.jpg

Z-FEDCO Back Side Number 2b .jpg

Z-FEDCO Back Side Number 3 .jpg

Z-FEDCO Back Side Number 6 .jpg

FEDCO Letter H.jpg

FEDCO Letter R (2).jpg

FEDCO Letter Y .jpg

FEDCO Number 6 .jpg

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