NC-car-guy Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Ok. I normally hate when people ask whats it worth, but I can't find any good data. Theres a 1928 near me, complete, titled, ran 3 years ago... They are askimg 3250. Only thing I see missing is the spare tire and headlight lenses. I want it, but dont want to get taken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Matt, With only one picture to go by it's tough to know. From what I see, add one headlight reflector, the lion mascot on the grill shell, and maybe the wiper motor to the missing parts list ? But, those are not real deal breakers. 28 was one of Franklin's higher production years and with some digging parts can still be found. If you can post more pictures, including the interior and hood open, we can tell you more. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 13 minutes ago, PFitz said: Matt, With only one picture to go by it's tough to know. From what I see, add one headlight reflector, the lion mascot on the grill shell, and maybe the wiper motor to the missing parts list ? But, those are not real deal breakers. 28 was one of Franklin's higher production years and with some digging parts can still be found. If you can post more pictures, including the interior and hood open, we can tell you more. Paul Thanks. I'm thinking more preservation than restoration. Here's what I have... Owner says he does has the shroud off the top of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Ok, I see the engine air shroud on the floor by the wall, but what about the 3 inch high band it sits on that goes between the shroud and the bottom section ?. I see the original wiper motor is still there, just needs a wiper arm that you can get from the Ford Model A repro parts guys. Working or rebuildable is then the question. And the rear seat foot rest. Those often are gone after someone has stepped on and broken the potmetal end brackets. Rear seat vanity is missing. What about the smoker's set on the other side ? Spare tire demountable rim is there, just needs a tire, flap and tube. The tail light bezel and lenses are missing. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 4 minutes ago, PFitz said: Ok, I see the engine air shroud on the floor by the wall, but what about the 3 inch high band it sits on that goes between the shroud and the bottom section ?. I see the original wiper motor is still there, just needs a wiper arm that you can get from the Ford Model A repro parts guys. Working or rebuildable is then the question. And the rear seat foot rest. Those often are gone after someone has stepped on and broken the potmetal end brackets. Rear seat vanity is missing. What about the smoker's set on the other side ? Spare tire demountable rim is there, just needs a tire, flap and tube. The tail light bezel and lenses are missing. Paul Think she might be worth the $3k? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Quote Still a lot of questions before figuring a price. Says it ran three years ago, but not for long with that air shroud off to run the spark plug wires outside the loom. It'll over heat after about 5 minutes of that not having cooling air forced through the cooling fins of the cylinders. Was it over heated and warped pistons or burned valves ? Have you seen it start, run ? Says auto transmission, but I see the original floor shift - what's under the floor boards ? Those cars had a Stromberg T-2 potmetal carb that most by now have developed cracks and leak internally, or fell apart and been replaced - often with the wrong carb. What's the carb and vacuum tank like ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 2 minutes ago, PFitz said: Still a lot of questions before figuring a price. Says it ran three years ago, but not for long with that air shroud off to run the spark plug wires outside the loom. It'll over heat after about 5 minutes of that not having cooling air forced through the cooling fins of the cylinders. Was it over heated and warped pistons or burned valves ? Have you seen it start, run ? Says auto transmission, but I see the original floor shift - what's under the floor boards ? Those cars had a Stromberg T-2 potmetal carb that most by now have developed cracks and leak internally, or fell apart and been replaced - often with the wrong carb. What's the carb and vacuum tank like ? Paul Facebook's ad building tool is awful. I too see the manual transmission. I've not gone to see it yet as I didn't know enough about them. Plus if he's way off base on the price there's no point in going the hour and a half to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Missing the sun visor and arms to adjust it as well. How much are you willing to put into the car $ wise to get it to an acceptable level. That is not counting the time necessary to do the work. Tires and tubes will be near $2,000 minimum, just to replate the nickel on the shell, bumpers, hubcaps, headlamps , door handles etc at least $10,000 , most likely will need new roof fabric to keep the water out . repaint ( can you do this? cost of the primer, lacquer, sandpaper will be at least $1,500) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 3 minutes ago, Walt G said: Missing the sun visor and arms to adjust it as well. How much are you willing to put into the car $ wise to get it to an acceptable level. That is not counting the time necessary to do the work. Tires and tubes will be near $2,000 minimum, just to replate the nickel on the shell, bumpers, hubcaps, headlamps , door handles etc at least $10,000 , most likely will need new roof fabric to keep the water out . repaint ( can you do this? cost of the primer, lacquer, sandpaper will be at least $1,500) I'm not looking to make a 100 point car. I'd not replate anything. Probably not repaint either. It would live indoors except the few drives in nice weather. I prefer to keep cars the way I find them and just get them running and safe..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 (edited) Running and safe is fine, but,..... If the bottom end babbitt needs redoing (most 90+ year old babbitt does), there's a few thousand dollars for rods and mains,.... and there are no off the shielf parts to do that. The engine base has to be sent out to a shop qualified to do babbitt work and align bore the new mains. 28 Franklins have the most complex and expensive wiring systems of any Franklin. And I can guarantee that if it still has the original wiring the insulation is all hardened, cracking, and falling off. It's not a question of if it will have electrical problems, but when. And the lights being apart makes me think the "when" is already here. So all new wiring harnesses and misc wiring supplies (so you don't have an electrical fire) will be close to $1000.00. A new correct type and size carb, that won't damage the engine like many of the replacements in past, is $650.00 + shipping. One of the members found a good NE distributor cap for his Franklin at Hershey last year - $400.00. And as Walt said, about $2000.00 for tires tubes and flaps +shipping. Rebuilding the brake system can run into the hundreds. And you don't even know if the engine will run, much less what condition it's in and what it will need not just to get out the driveway but to stand a good chance of getting you back home. Making a car that old just running and safe can get very expensive. And most of the expensive questions about this car have not been answered yet. Paul Edited October 6, 2019 by PFitz (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Well I sure hope someone else buys it before it becomes scrap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLynskey Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Back to the original question, if you want it, it's worth $3250. What 's the difference between $0 and $3250 in the long run? The purchase price is a small part of the ultimate cost of any restoration. The Franklin is a very popular and dependable car and the air-cooling sets it apart from the other cars at the local cruise-in. You're guaranteed to draw more interest than most anything else there. To me the biggest question is the condition of the structural wood. It looks remarkably complete, straight and rust free. Restoration of the mechanics, body and upholstery would be expensive but very do-able. The structural wood, however is a challenge to any but an expert wood worker. When it comes right down to it almost no car that needs a compete restoration is worth it financially. The value is in the satisfaction and enjoyment. What is that worth to you? Don 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 2 minutes ago, DLynskey said: Back to the original question, if you want it, it's worth $3250. What 's the difference between $0 and $3250 in the long run? The purchase price is a small part of the ultimate cost of any restoration. The Franklin is a very popular and dependable car and the air-cooling sets it apart from the other cars at the local cruise-in. You're guaranteed to draw more interest than most anything else there. To me the biggest question is the condition of the structural wood. It looks remarkably complete, straight and rust free. Restoration of the mechanics, body and upholstery would be expensive but very do-able. The structural wood, however is a challenge to any but an expert wood worker. When it comes right down to it almost no car that needs a compete restoration is worth it financially. The value is in the satisfaction and enjoyment. What is that worth to you? Don Excellent answer thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 I'm no stranger to weird cars... Check my signature... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Braverman Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 This doesn't look like a 1928 to me, it looks like a 26-27 series 11. There are many differences. It appears mostly compete except for the parts noted by others, but this is a relatively common Franklin and parts are out there. I think the price is right, but it's a gamble on the engine condition. I think it's a very cheap entrance into the wonderful world of Franklins. Go get it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3makes Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 I too think this is a Series 11. Notice the lack of front wheel brakes. Series 12 had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, the instrument cluster is not a single piece, but 3 plaques and the steering wheel has the Series 11 hand throttle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 On 10/7/2019 at 6:23 AM, Steve Braverman said: This doesn't look like a 1928 to me, it looks like a 26-27 series 11. There are many differences. It appears mostly compete except for the parts noted by others, but this is a relatively common Franklin and parts are out there. I think the price is right, but it's a gamble on the engine condition. I think it's a very cheap entrance into the wonderful world of Franklins. Go get it! On 10/7/2019 at 8:18 AM, 3makes said: I too think this is a Series 11. Notice the lack of front wheel brakes. Series 12 had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, the instrument cluster is not a single piece, but 3 plaques and the steering wheel has the Series 11 hand throttle. Looking at the second batch of pictures again I agree, it's not a 28 but an earlier Series 11. That saves a few hundred dollars on wiring, brakes, and if the potmetal venturi in the brass carb is still ok then it's rebuildable for less than the cost of a replacement. But there will still be the other expenses and questions mentioned to make it running and safe. The paint shows it spent a lot of time exposed outdoors. The left side drip rail coming loose and rot-through the aluminum skin down in the right rear corner of the body may indicate roof and belt molding leaks and problems with the wood framing inside at those points. Which also makes me wonder how good the wooden chassis sills are. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ak Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 (edited) Headlight bar, dash, and front door shape indicate 1927 11B. JR Edited October 27, 2019 by ak more info (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 On 10/5/2019 at 6:37 PM, NC-car-guy said: I'm not looking to make a 100 point car. I'd not replate anything. Probably not repaint either. It would live indoors except the few drives in nice weather. I prefer to keep cars the way I find them and just get them running and safe..... Fun cars and this is reasonable priced. You will have to join the club though and not be afraid to ask for help - parts are not uncommon, but they are not available without knowing who has what and asking. Wooden frame sills are usually ok enough on a car of this looks, but the frames do sag. Buy it, try your hand at it, and if not for you then sell it. They also show up on www.franklincar.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Sold... But not to me 😕 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Don't worry another will come along. Lots of stuff coming on the market. Might find one ion even better shape. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29 franklin Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 there is a video on you tube on this car already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLynskey Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Link to the video: Don 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Not to be critical, but old oil often sludges up and someone who starts a car with sludged up oil in it can destroy an engine pretty quickly (I did not hear the part about them checking that and as a result this strikes me of a whole lot of not knowing what they are going on here. And, prior to starting a Franklin that has been sitting you need to pay careful attention to the valves not to bend a push rod via stuck/sticky push rods or valves. Also, seems to be cranking pretty fast - 12 volts on it perhaps. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f147pu Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 You are missing the metal piece that goes over the top of all the intake and exhaust pipes to fill the space between the top cover and that around the cylinders. Don't run without it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 1 hour ago, f147pu said: You are missing the metal piece that goes over the top of all the intake and exhaust pipes to fill the space between the top cover and that around the cylinders. Don't run without it. I thought so too, Gordon, when I thought it was a Series 12, but Ser 11 doesn't have that "middle air hood" part. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f147pu Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) Geez, I wish I still had my 11 parts book. That's what happens when you get old and haven't messed with a car for for years. GH Edited October 30, 2019 by f147pu didn't sign (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odat Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 My vote is a 1925 series 11 Pictures of my originial attached Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Video shows the cast iron intake manifold of a 1927 11B. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 the Video is scary, great wiring job on the right side of the engine. A fire waiting to happen - but " let's get it runnin " " Yee Haw" , and they still don't list the correct year . 😯 I will stop now before I post something that will get me in trouble 🤐 Well maybe I already am in trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f147pu Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 6 hours ago, PFitz said: Video shows the cast iron intake manifold of a 1927 11B. Paul I believe the intake is aluminum. Again, years since I have had an intimate relationship with one. GH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 (edited) 51 minutes ago, f147pu said: I believe the intake is aluminum. Again, years since I have had an intimate relationship with one. GH Series 11B on they were all cast iron, but painted with aluminum paint. As stated starting with drawing 34027, they are painted with "Aluminum Flameproof Kepolac". That was Franklin's choice for a high-temp paint that they used on the cast iron and some steel engine parts for many years. BTW, you can download free copies of the operators manuals and parts books from the members only section of the Club's website. Paul Edited November 1, 2019 by PFitz (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Winans Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 I bought this and it is a 1927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 Welcome to the world of Franklins. Jonathan I strongly recommend joining the H.H. Franklin Club. There are many resources for Franklins, such as manuals, literature, and parts for sale, that will save you more than the cost of the membership. And, any questions you might have about how to drive, maintain, and repair your Franklin have been answered in the 15 years of Q & A, in the "Members Only" section of the Club's website at, www.franklincar.org Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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