NC-car-guy

1928 value

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Ok.  I normally hate when people ask whats it worth, but I can't find any good data.  Theres a 1928 near me, complete, titled, ran 3 years ago...  They are askimg 3250. Only thing I see missing is the spare tire and headlight lenses. I want it, but dont want to get taken.

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Matt,

 

With only one picture to go by it's tough to know. From what I see, add one headlight reflector, the lion mascot on the grill shell, and maybe the wiper motor to the missing parts list ? But, those are not real deal breakers. 28 was one of Franklin's higher production years and with some digging parts can still be found.

 

If you can post more pictures, including the interior and hood open, we can tell you more.     

 

Paul

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13 minutes ago, PFitz said:

Matt,

 

With only one picture to go by it's tough to know. From what I see, add one headlight reflector, the lion mascot on the grill shell, and maybe the wiper motor to the missing parts list ? But, those are not real deal breakers. 28 was one of Franklin's higher production years and with some digging parts can still be found.

 

If you can post more pictures, including the interior and hood open, we can tell you more.     

 

Paul

Thanks.  I'm thinking more preservation than restoration. Here's what I have... Owner says he does has the shroud off the top of the engine.

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 Ok, I see the engine air shroud on the floor by the wall, but what about the 3 inch high band it sits on that goes  between the shroud and the bottom section ?.

 

I see the original wiper motor is still there, just needs a wiper arm that you can get from the Ford Model A repro parts guys. Working or rebuildable is then the question. And the rear seat foot rest. Those often are gone after someone has stepped on and broken the potmetal end brackets.

 

Rear seat vanity is missing. What about the smoker's set on the other side ?

 

Spare tire demountable rim is there, just needs a tire, flap and tube.

 

The tail light bezel and lenses are missing.

 

Paul 

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4 minutes ago, PFitz said:

 Ok, I see the engine air shroud on the floor by the wall, but what about the 3 inch high band it sits on that goes  between the shroud and the bottom section ?.

 

I see the original wiper motor is still there, just needs a wiper arm that you can get from the Ford Model A repro parts guys. Working or rebuildable is then the question. And the rear seat foot rest. Those often are gone after someone has stepped on and broken the potmetal end brackets.

 

Rear seat vanity is missing. What about the smoker's set on the other side ?

 

Spare tire demountable rim is there, just needs a tire, flap and tube.

 

The tail light bezel and lenses are missing.

 

Paul 

Think she might be worth the $3k?

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Quote

 

Still a lot of questions before figuring a price.

 

Says it ran three years ago, but not for long with that air shroud off  to run the spark plug wires outside the loom. It'll over heat after about 5 minutes of that not having cooling air forced through the cooling fins of the cylinders. Was it over heated and warped pistons or burned valves ?

Have you seen it start, run ?

 

Says auto transmission, but I see the original floor shift - what's under the floor boards ? 

 

Those cars had a Stromberg T-2 potmetal carb that most by now have developed cracks and leak internally, or fell apart and been replaced - often with the wrong carb. What's the carb and vacuum tank like ?  

 

Paul

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2 minutes ago, PFitz said:

Still a lot of questions before figuring a price.

 

Says it ran three years ago, but not for long with that air shroud off  to run the spark plug wires outside the loom. It'll over heat after about 5 minutes of that not having cooling air forced through the cooling fins of the cylinders. Was it over heated and warped pistons or burned valves ?

Have you seen it start, run ?

 

Says auto transmission, but I see the original floor shift - what's under the floor boards ? 

 

Those cars had a Stromberg T-2 potmetal carb that most by now have developed cracks and leak internally, or fell apart and been replaced - often with the wrong carb. What's the carb and vacuum tank like ?  

 

Paul

Facebook's ad building tool is awful.  I too see the manual transmission. I've not gone to see it yet as I didn't know enough about them.  Plus if he's way off base on the price there's no point in going the hour and a half to see it.

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Missing the sun visor and arms to adjust it as well. How much are you willing to put into the car $ wise to get it to an acceptable level. That is not counting the time necessary to do the work. Tires and tubes will be near $2,000 minimum, just to replate the nickel on the shell, bumpers, hubcaps, headlamps , door handles etc at least $10,000 , most likely will need new roof fabric to keep the water out . repaint ( can you do this? cost of the primer, lacquer, sandpaper will be at least $1,500)

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3 minutes ago, Walt G said:

Missing the sun visor and arms to adjust it as well. How much are you willing to put into the car $ wise to get it to an acceptable level. That is not counting the time necessary to do the work. Tires and tubes will be near $2,000 minimum, just to replate the nickel on the shell, bumpers, hubcaps, headlamps , door handles etc at least $10,000 , most likely will need new roof fabric to keep the water out . repaint ( can you do this? cost of the primer, lacquer, sandpaper will be at least $1,500)

I'm not looking to make a 100 point car.  I'd not replate anything.  Probably not repaint either.  It would live indoors except the few drives in nice weather.  I prefer to keep cars the way I find them and just get them running and safe.....

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Posted (edited)

Running and safe is fine, but,..... 

 

If the bottom end babbitt needs redoing (most 90+ year old babbitt does), there's a few thousand dollars for rods and mains,.... and there are no off the shielf parts to do that. The engine base has to be sent out to a shop qualified to do babbitt work and align bore the new mains.  

 

28 Franklins have the most complex and expensive wiring systems of any Franklin. And I can guarantee that if it still has the original wiring the insulation is all hardened, cracking, and falling off. It's not a question of if it will have electrical problems, but when. And the lights being apart makes me think the "when" is already here.  So all new wiring harnesses and misc wiring supplies (so you don't have an electrical fire) will be close to $1000.00.

 

A new correct type and size carb, that won't damage the engine like many of the replacements in past, is $650.00 + shipping.  

 

One of the members found a good NE distributor cap for his Franklin at Hershey last year - $400.00.

 

And as Walt said, about $2000.00 for tires tubes and flaps +shipping.

 

Rebuilding the brake system can run into the hundreds.

 

And you don't even know if the engine will run, much less what condition it's in and what it will need not just to get out the driveway but to stand a good chance of getting you back home.  

 

Making a car that old just running and safe can get very expensive.  And most of the expensive questions about this car have not been answered yet. 

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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Well I sure hope someone else buys it before it becomes scrap...

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Back to the original question, if you want it, it's worth $3250. What 's the difference between $0 and $3250 in the long run? The purchase price is a small part of the ultimate cost of any restoration. The Franklin is a very popular and dependable car and the air-cooling sets it apart from the other cars at the local cruise-in. You're guaranteed to draw more interest than most anything else there. 

 

To me the biggest question is the condition of the structural wood. It looks remarkably complete, straight and rust free. Restoration of the mechanics, body and upholstery would be expensive but very do-able. The structural wood, however is a challenge to any but an expert wood worker.

 

When it comes right down to it almost no car that needs a compete restoration is worth it financially. The value is in the satisfaction and enjoyment. What is that worth to  you?

 

Don

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2 minutes ago, DLynskey said:

Back to the original question, if you want it, it's worth $3250. What 's the difference between $0 and $3250 in the long run? The purchase price is a small part of the ultimate cost of any restoration. The Franklin is a very popular and dependable car and the air-cooling sets it apart from the other cars at the local cruise-in. You're guaranteed to draw more interest than most anything else there. 

 

To me the biggest question is the condition of the structural wood. It looks remarkably complete, straight and rust free. Restoration of the mechanics, body and upholstery would be expensive but very do-able. The structural wood, however is a challenge to any but an expert wood worker.

 

When it comes right down to it almost no car that needs a compete restoration is worth it financially. The value is in the satisfaction and enjoyment. What is that worth to  you?

 

Don

Excellent answer thanks!

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This doesn't look like a 1928 to me, it looks like a 26-27 series 11. There are many differences. It appears mostly compete except for the parts noted by others, but this is a relatively common Franklin and parts are out there. I think the price is right, but it's a gamble on the engine condition. I think it's a very cheap entrance into the wonderful world of Franklins. Go get it!

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I too think this is a Series 11. Notice the lack of front wheel brakes. Series 12 had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, the instrument cluster is not a single piece, but 3 plaques and the steering wheel has the Series 11 hand throttle.

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On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 6:23 AM, Steve Braverman said:

This doesn't look like a 1928 to me, it looks like a 26-27 series 11. There are many differences. It appears mostly compete except for the parts noted by others, but this is a relatively common Franklin and parts are out there. I think the price is right, but it's a gamble on the engine condition. I think it's a very cheap entrance into the wonderful world of Franklins. Go get it!

 

On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 8:18 AM, 3makes said:

I too think this is a Series 11. Notice the lack of front wheel brakes. Series 12 had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, the instrument cluster is not a single piece, but 3 plaques and the steering wheel has the Series 11 hand throttle.

 

Looking at the second batch of pictures again I agree, it's not a 28 but an earlier Series 11. That saves a few hundred dollars on wiring, brakes, and if the potmetal venturi in the brass carb is still ok then it's rebuildable for less than the cost of a replacement. But there will still be the other expenses and questions  mentioned  to make it running and safe. 

 

The paint shows it spent a lot of time exposed outdoors. The left side drip rail coming loose and rot-through the aluminum skin down in the right rear corner of the body may indicate roof and belt molding leaks and problems with the wood framing inside at those points. Which also makes me wonder how good the wooden chassis sills are.

 

Paul

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Headlight bar, dash, and front door shape indicate 1927 11B. 

JR

 

Edited by ak
more info (see edit history)

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On 10/5/2019 at 6:37 PM, NC-car-guy said:

I'm not looking to make a 100 point car.  I'd not replate anything.  Probably not repaint either.  It would live indoors except the few drives in nice weather.  I prefer to keep cars the way I find them and just get them running and safe.....

Fun cars and this is reasonable priced.  You will have to join the club though and not be afraid to ask for help - parts are not uncommon, but they are not available without knowing who has what and asking.  Wooden frame sills are usually ok enough on a car of this looks, but the frames do sag.   Buy it, try your hand at it, and if not for you then sell it.   They also show up on www.franklincar.org 

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Don't worry another will come along.  Lots of stuff coming on the market.  Might find one ion even better shape. 

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Link to the video:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don

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Not to be critical, but old oil often sludges up and someone who starts a car with sludged up oil in it can destroy an engine pretty quickly (I did not hear the part about them checking that and as a result this strikes me of a whole lot of not knowing what they are going on here.  And, prior to starting a Franklin that has been sitting you need to pay careful attention to the valves not to bend a push rod via stuck/sticky push rods or valves.  Also, seems to be cranking pretty fast - 12 volts on it perhaps.

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You are missing the metal piece that goes over the top of all the intake and exhaust pipes to fill the space between the top cover and that around the cylinders. Don't run without it.

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