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Rivi gs wood steering wheel


arnulfo de l.a.

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The original horn bar is still in one piece. I filled the cavity on the back with resin. Hopefully it will keep the bar in one piece.My question to those who still have the original horn bar; how is the fit?mine does not center perfectly and one side of the bar seems to sit deeper than the other if i tighten all three of the mounting screws all the way down. Also cannot get both sides of the bar to honk when depressed.only one side works. Thinking it is just the nature of the beast being the bar is an imperfect cast piece. Im still toying with it in hopes of getting both sides of the bar to work.What say you men with a gs steering wheel ?

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1 hour ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:

The original horn bar is still in one piece. I filled the cavity on the back with resin. Hopefully it will keep the bar in one piece.My question to those who still have the original horn bar; how is the fit?mine does not center perfectly and one side of the bar seems to sit deeper than the other if i tighten all three of the mounting screws all the way down. Also cannot get both sides of the bar to honk when depressed.only one side works. Thinking it is just the nature of the beast being the bar is an imperfect cast piece. Im still toying with it in hopes of getting both sides of the bar to work.What say you men with a gs steering wheel ?

I have an original option wood wheel option on

my 65...horn bar sits in centre, no mid alignment. All comes apart very easily so yr issue May be evident when you take all apart? In case it wasn’t honking because the ‘contact spring’ - If that’s correct terminology! - has lost its spring ..bought one on eBay .. cheaply...honks good now..

kev

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Two things:

- Consensus is not to press on the ends of the horn bar.  Rather, press it close to the center to minimize the chance of breakage.

- The best thing that that you can do with wheel is sell it.  At current prices, you can fund a whole lot of other work for what folks are paying for those. ;) 

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I was thinking about putting thumbscrew blocks on either side of mine to hold the bar firmly in place. I never blow the horn and if I did another driver would probably think I meant they could drive in front of me or something stupid like that.

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21 hours ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:

The original horn bar is still in one piece. I filled the cavity on the back with resin. Hopefully it will keep the bar in one piece.My question to those who still have the original horn bar; how is the fit?mine does not center perfectly and one side of the bar seems to sit deeper than the other if i tighten all three of the mounting screws all the way down. Also cannot get both sides of the bar to honk when depressed.only one side works. Thinking it is just the nature of the beast being the bar is an imperfect cast piece. Im still toying with it in hopes of getting both sides of the bar to work.What say you men with a gs steering wheel ?

What you  need to do to solve your problem is NOT tighten the screws down all the way! If you do this, the horn bar will have more travel and will honk from both sides of the bar. I have a repro bar and with the screws tightened all the way down it won't honk or even move at all. I backed off on the screws about a turn and all is well.

The screws have tension on them and they will not fall out if you loosen them up a little. 

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  If the insulator is properly located into the holes of the contact plate the screws will tighten and enable the horn bar to move/be depressed. If the insulator is catching on the edge of the holes in the contact plate as one tightens the screws it will draw down the contact plate and most often cause the plate to contact the hub and activate the horn.

  If the horn bar will only activate the horn on one side it is usually due to the contact plate is not contacting properly or there is slight corrosion at the contact point.

Tom Mooney

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