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Center link??


1956322
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Sooo i have play where my pitman arm goes into the center link.. the center link is adjusted as tight as it can go but the play is still there I’m assuming the center link has to be rebuilt at this point?? What kind of new hell am i getting into to rebuild it lol 

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If you want to rebuild the center link yourself it is easy to take apart. Just grind the tack weld off the cup opposite the tapered swivel. Use a press if you have one to push the swivel out with gentle control or hit it with a hammer.

I did one and only had to put new sleeves at the base of the tapers to tighten it.  Check the ball and seat for wear. A little searching should find you a tie rod end with similar internal parts. Take a new one part and use the insides. Once it is back together press the seat in place and tack the edge with a heliarch.

That's a job for someone with time and access to lots of parts. The services I have seen are fairly priced but you have the option to try yourself.

 

I have a drawer in my bench for non-serviceable parts. It is not deep enough for a center link. If I took one of those apart and couldn't fix it I would probably hang it on a couple of peg hooks.

Bernie

 

 

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18 hours ago, 1956322 said:

Sooo i have play where my pitman arm goes into the center link.. the center link is adjusted as tight as it can go but the play is still there I’m assuming the center link has to be rebuilt at this point?? What kind of new hell am i getting into to rebuild it lol 

What car?

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2 hours ago, 1956322 said:

Sorry 56 special 

For that car, just remove the end plugs to remove from the car.  Disassemble, clean and inspect.  About the only thing that goes wrong is broken springs.  When adjusted according to the service manual there will be some "play" due to compressing of the springs.

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"For that car, just remove the end plugs to remove from the car.  Disassemble, clean and inspect.  About the only thing that goes wrong is broken springs.  When adjusted according to the service manual there will be some "play" due to compressing of the springs".

 

Old-Tank,  would that apply to a 1955 Roadmaster as well as a 1956 Special?

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The pitman arm ball  can also become worn into an oval shape. You may need to replace the arm,

 

Use caution when taking up movement in the steering box thrust bearing, especially on a power steering car. The thrust is part of the sensing to bring in the steering assist. The adjustment is easy to get to and I have seen a lot of then set too tight. It will cause overly sensitive or twitchy steering. I have taken a few problematic cars to an old time alignment shop and it was common for him to back off on the box adjustment after the first test drive.

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The only one I know of is the guy that sells the steering box conversion kit.. I probably wouldn't trust it, though. Any steering repair shop should be able to replace the ball end, though. That's the one thing I haven't found at the hardware store. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

All,

On the same topic, I need some help with just exactly how the assembly goes back together on my 55 Special. The PO had it apart, fell on hard times physically and had to let the car go and I rescued it. Regardless, I got a box of parts and the shop manual which "to me"is not very clear. Can somebody please explain where the triangular spacers/sleeves fit exactly in the intermediate tube? Think I need it broke down Barney stupid (like drawn in a picture)because how can the unfinished open triangular post/tube possibly capture the tie rod ball on either end? I thought the cup bearings captured the idler and tie rod ends and then the T bumpers then the springs if that makes any sense. By "fitting" in the drawing does it mean zerk fitting?

Thanks....Jim

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On 10/1/2019 at 5:40 PM, 1956322 said:

Any idea where to get a new pitman arm if needed?? The only thing i can find is the idler arm

1956 power steering pitman arm is different than manual steering pitman arm. Other than pat #s I have not put them side by side to visually gauge difference. Aside from nos, how would one check the ball end to determine the level of wear? Are there specs/measurements printed somewhere? Must have been a recognised wear point if designed with adjustment available.

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
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If you are lining up parts before doing the job you can just pop the socket off the ball and use a caliper or eye to see if the ball is still round. You could find a used spare and have the ball built up with weld if you do need one.

Those balls wear from over greasing and the seal allowing dirty grease to rub on the ball for years. Once it is fixed keep the grease as clean as you can by periodically flushing the joint. There are a lot of oval ones out there today.

The external threaded plug is the adjustment. But when the ball gets worn oval the inner cups can be loose at one point and tight at another.

 

The Buick Farm is still growing crops https://www.buickfarm.com/ . They may have put in a row of steering parts this year.

 

I bought NOS lower rear suspension arms for my Riviera frm them back in the 1990's. My small town mailman said "They really grow Buick parts on a farm?"

Bernie

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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