StillOutThere

'35 Dodge car shift boot

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Purchased a shift boot reproduction for my '35 Dodge Model DU car from Roberts Motor parts who adveretise it for exactly my application. 

As the pictures show it isn't close, won't work, can't be used.

Original is on the left,  Roberts repro is on the right.   Obverse and reverse shown.

 

Is a CORRECT reproduction available out there in this grand hobby of ours?   From whom?

 

And maybe I should ask, are dealers like Bernbaum selling the same useless part as Roberts?    Bernbaum is not considerate enough to post PICTURES of their parts which is VERY frustrating.

 

Thanks.

ShiftBoot1_Orig-Roberts.jpg

ShiftBoot2.jpg

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I would check with Steele rubber as they should have a good repro part for that. I know that they are rather expensive but most of their parts are good. You can access their catalog online but make sure you read the descriptions!

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Clearly, by the shape and style, the two do not match. Hopefully you can get your money back.

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A first note to Roberts got immediate response that he would indeed refund purchase price.    A second note to Roberts said that since I received this item, other owners tell me they have had the SAME problem and returned theirs for refund also.   I then said WHY do you continue to list the '35 DU application in your catalong when you are being told over and over that the part is WRONG for our cars?   We hobbyists pay shipping to us, shipping back to Roberts, and still have no part for our cars.  I was cordial and polite.   Roberts did NOT respond.

 

Not remotely close,  Steele offers offers in black or brown this: https://www.steelerubber.com/brown-gearshift-boot-40-0111-89

 

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Looks like Steele wants you to buy their floor plate as well.

Every thing that I have bought from Steele has been good quality.

More money? Yes. Sometimes trying to save a buck is not worth it.

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FWIW the 1935 parts catalog lists two different gear shift lever hole covers.  One is for rumble seat coupes, business coupes, and convertible coupes - p/n 497284.  Another cover - p/n 498429 - is for all the sedans, whether 2 door or 4 door.
What body style do you have?  Can you make out any p/n on the old part?

BTW I followed the Steele link and did some mental shopping for my D2.  Wow.  I could spend a grand there in a few minutes.

Edited by Pete in PA (see edit history)
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 Looking in an old  Steele catalog, I don't see anything listed for the '35 Dodge. Chrysler but not Dodge. you might call them to make sure. 

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4 hours ago, Pete in PA said:

FWIW the 1935 parts catalog lists two different gear shift lever hole covers.  One in for rumble seat coupes, business coupes, an convertible coupes - p/n 497284.  Another cover - p/n 498429 - is for all the sedans, whether 2 door or 4 door.
What body style do you have?  Can you make out any p/n on the old part?  SNIP

Thanks for that Pete.   There likely was a number cast into the bottom side but can no longer make it out.

My car is a very original convertible coupe.  Which is why originality is very important on the few reproduction parts it needs.  Survivor /reference quality car.  

Pic is "as found" from grandson of original owner.  Top and tires replaced 35 years ago.

 

20190329_145043.jpg

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That is a stunning car.  With sidemounts and a trunk rack no less... Is it dark green?   My dad was born in 35.  Makes me think of him.

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Metro Moulded Parts make a few things for these models too, but not the gearshift boot.

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I too have been looking for a correct shifter boot for my '36 Dodge D2 RS coupe. The original boot looks nothing like what is being offered by any of the suppliers. What to do?

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2 hours ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

What to do?

Make one! @chistech has shown us how to make the mold in his thread on the '32 Olds. I was wondering about making a steering post draft pad myself; the RHD version is different to the LHD version and no-one makes the RHD one. I was wondering about using HDF with suitable router bits to make the molds. Know anyone with a CNC router?

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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Spinney - I've been following chistech's work and it is beautiful. But I don't have access to CNC equipment or folks who have such to make molds. A little beyond my skill set. I do agree that this is likely the only way we can get the parts we need produced. If I could find a machinist/hobbyist who would do this kind of work for fun or at low cost, we could likely keep them very busy. Any takers???

Edited by 36 D2 Coupe (see edit history)
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The first thing you need to do is draw it up. I used a free 3D CAD programme to draw up some grommets for reproduction. I have drawn a 2D of the steering post pad. I learnt the programme FreeCAD to do the drawings.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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Took a really hard look for the PN on the original boot.   As  Pete in PA   suggests, it is 497284.  Made by Duffy Mfg, Holland, MI.   Are you out there Mr. Duffy?  We need you.

 

Steele suggests the ID of their  PN  40-0111-88   which looks like the attached, has about a 3" diameter to the vertical tube at its base.   Plan would be to open up the remains of the deteriorated boot remaining in my original plate as close as possible to the same diameter (limited by the steel plate in the casting).  Then slip the Steel boot up through the opening with its flange hopefully holding it in place.   I'll order one this evening.  I don't see any other near-solution available.

 

Will post results when I've got this next act together.  

Thanks for discussion y'all. 

image.png

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I woke up this morning and was actually going to suggest you do that very thing.

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22 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

I woke up this morning and was actually going to suggest you do that very thing.

 

Ha!   You have to get up two hours earlier to beat this Texan to it when you live in Oregon!

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16 hours ago, StillOutThere said:

Took a really hard look for the PN on the original boot.   As  Pete in PA   suggests, it is 497284.  Made by Duffy Mfg, Holland, MI.   Are you out there Mr. Duffy?  We need you.

 

Steele suggests the ID of their  PN  40-0111-88   which looks like the attached, has about a 3" diameter to the vertical tube at its base.   Plan would be to open up the remains of the deteriorated boot remaining in my original plate as close as possible to the same diameter (limited by the steel plate in the casting).  Then slip the Steel boot up through the opening with its flange hopefully holding it in place.   I'll order one this evening.  I don't see any other near-solution available.

 

Will post results when I've got this next act together.  

Thanks for discussion y'all. 

image.png

When I decided to start making my molds I did my typical extensive research and found Duffy made just about all those close out plates. My Olds, pontiac, dodge, Plymouth, and more were Duffy mfg. This is kind of a good thing as most GM parts for example, used the same, 6 fine line design so my custom tool is good for other plates. The panel you show is not impossible to make and would be at least a three part mold. The boot itself is not easy to make because both an outer and inner mold needs to be made with a .010 mill distance between the two pieces so your idea of using the Steele part is what I’d do. When reconstructing these parts, with mold making, one has to compromise somewhat as some things are just not feasible or affordable to try and duplicate. The thing to remember is no one out there is going to know if it’s only 90percent correct and anything you make that’s really close is 1000 times better than anything anyone else has. 

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Okay, Steele sent the "tower boot" as noted above.   I carved the highly deteriorated center out of the original floor plate right up to the patterned circle edge on the original to get clearance for inserting the new.   Could use a little more time /finesse in trimming.

New-opened.jpg

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Then the new Steele tower is actually quite a nice fit to that circle.  It has the flange around the bottom of the tower which I'll probably glue in with some contact cement so it has no excuse to pull through when shifted.   The tower is a quite tight fit on the shaft of the shifter.   And a form fitting fit onto the steel tower of the transmission.   Floor not currently in car.

 

At this point, I'm VERY pleased with this "fix" to get the car a restoration appearance shift boot.    Could not have done it had I not already had a 33,xxx mile good floor plate to work with.

 

In a worse case car, even if one still just had the steel, one could recover with some hardware store ribbed rubber.   At worst, one could make a steel plate and cover it.    Both cases using the Steele Rubber tower.  Recommended.

New-front.jpg

New-side.jpg

New-reverse.jpg

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On 10/4/2019 at 4:09 PM, StillOutThere said:

Then the new Steele tower is actually quite a nice fit to that circle.  It has the flange around the bottom of the tower which I'll probably glue in with some contact cement so it has no excuse to pull through when shifted.   The tower is a quite tight fit on the shaft of the shifter.   And a form fitting fit onto the steel tower of the transmission.   Floor not currently in car.

 

At this point, I'm VERY pleased with this "fix" to get the car a restoration appearance shift boot.    Could not have done it had I not already had a 33,xxx mile good floor plate to work with.

 

In a worse case car, even if one still just had the steel, one could recover with some hardware store ribbed rubber.   At worst, one could make a steel plate and cover it.    Both cases using the Steele Rubber tower.  Recommended.

New-front.jpg

New-side.jpg

New-reverse.jpg

Hey im wayne i have a 38 dodge rc series 1/2 ton restoring to original factory specs can you tell me where to get thatshifter boot setup

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6 minutes ago, Wayne jaffe said:

Hey im wayne i have a 38 dodge rc series 1/2 ton restoring to original factory specs can you tell me where to get thatshifter boot setup

 

The tower boot is from Lynn Steele Rubber with the PN given earlier in the thread.    The floor plate w/ original deteriorated center was in my car.   Steele offers a few complete assemblies.   I just needed to get his separate tower to make mine as close as possible to stock.   Enjoy your half tonner!

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