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Best thread sealant for transmission drain plug


DBKissel

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Can anyone suggest what they know to be a good sealant for a transmission drain plug? This is a 1925 Kissel Speedster with W140 synthetic gear lube (about to be put in).  I have used teflon tape with high quality plumbers pipe dope in the past, but always seem to have a drip.  I'm thinking black auto RTV sealant or non hardening form-a-gasket.  Just a simple pipe plug a shown.  Thoughts?

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Be careful with the thicker silicone based concoctions... not so much with primitive transmissions, but more-so with motors. Chunks of silicone can be squeezed inside and roam around causing problems. I'm surprised the teflon/dope solution didn't work for you. Have you tried cleaning up the threads? Also inspect around the hole closely. If someone has been wrapping too much material in there, if may be causing cracking around the drain hole. Normally for nasty ones I use one coat of dope... a couple wraps of teflon... then apply more dope and "usually" that fixes it. If you can get access to some small taps/dies for NPT maybe try lightly cleaning the threads. With newer automotive oil pan drain plugs, you can also get oversized plugs but I doubt you would get one in that style of plug/thread. Might be worth checking out if the problem persists, but again, be careful because going too big can split a casting or pan. 

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I use Plumber's Teflon paste from my local hardware store. Does a very good job of sealing even worn drain plugs against hot engine oil leaking.  Very forgiving of sticking to oily threads. Also holds up to gasoline for sealing threaded fuel line fittings. And, no worries of bits of tape ever getting into places where it shouldn't.

 

Paul 

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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31 minutes ago, PFitz said:

I use Plumber's Teflon paste from my local hardware store. Does a very good job of sealing even worn drain plugs against hot engine oil leaking.  Very forgiving of sticking to oily threads. Also holds up to gasoline for sealing threaded fuel line fittings. And, no worries of bits of tape ever getting into places where it shouldn't.

 

Paul 

 

^^^THIS. It's an NPT thread. Why would you use anything else?

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Teflon tape does not work too well.

 

This is what I use for all my steam fittings, and more steamfolk are switching over to it. Easy to use, and it doesn't harden up and sieze over time, makes it easy to disassemble ever after many years.

 

image.thumb.png.cbaf7488fd584b0f73807eff45938edd.png

 

https://www.amazon.com/General-Purpose-Thread-Sealant-8oz/dp/B01LZTXVR8/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Jomar+sealant&qid=1568483859&sr=8-6

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57 minutes ago, joe_padavano said:

^^^THIS. It's an NPT thread. Why would you use anything else?

Designed to not leak if tightened properly.  If it leaks.weeps you need a new plug.  The one on my Pontiac (500,000 miles) is still the original and does not leak, but it must be tight.  I would never ever use teflon tape or paste on an engine.

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Teflon tape has no place in a car engine.

 

Teflon paste generally works fine, but it acts as a lubricant, the taper should seal the threads. It is slippery so don't overtighten and break something if you use it.

 

Anaerobic thread sealer might be worth trying if teflon paste is not working.

 

 

 

.

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In a perfect world, tapered thread drain plugs should seal without a sealer. The problem with that is antiques are not perfect - most are far from it.  Even in the plumbing & heating business it's recommended to use a sealer on tapered thread. 

 

Plugs that have been removed and installed countless times over 80-90 years don't just wear the plug threads they also wear the threads in the hole that is being plugged.  I've had many come through my shop that did not seal hot motor oil no matter how tight you get them.  And the originals are not like the modern plumbing supply equivalent, so using a sealer allows saving the original for a show car and not having it weep oil.

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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On an antique that is being preserved it is best to use a sealer. An NPT tapered thread connection, every time the fitting is reefed together, the female threads enlarge a small bit, depending on the material like Brass or Bronze, they can open significantly. We see this all the time with antique steam car fittings cast bronze and iron where they have been connected, disconnected and over tightened several times over the years, they get to a point where the only way to seal them is with a sealer like I listed or they must be repaired, i.e. bored, silver-soldered sleeved and retapped or go up a pipe size.

 

-Ron

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Gasoila, made for petroleum products.

 

https://www.fedprobrands.com/

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