WSP 530

1925 Buick roadster. Renewed

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    I learned to drive in a '56 Buick, while looking on cl I ran across this Buick. I kept going back to the listing and made the call. It needed a top, interior and the paint was old cracked lacquer. Love at first site. The unusual bumper was installed by the first owner who had a patent on the design. I sewed a matching red seat and a new top, removed all the old paint and had a shop do some body work and paint. 

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Very nice Buick -

thanks for sharing,

and welcome to the FORUM

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Great transformation! I negotiated for this car and its parts when the former owner was selling. I thought....… I will have a 1925 Standard  Touring and a Roadster! And also enough spare parts to keep both going. I found a 1925 Master Touring instead that is now in need.

 My consideration was with the condition of the paint (I did not care for the yellow) was to go back to the model 24  Brewster Green. But with the 24S sport roadster attributes such as the visor and wind wings, I would have gone with the Buick Grey with gold striping.

 But you have made this car a real stunner!  I love the red and Black. I did like the 2 tone paint schemes that Buick did in 26 and 27.

 We hope to get to see it sometime.

 

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Your 1925-24 looks great!  The red and black looks really nice.  I am also currently in the process of doing the top restoration.   I just bought an industrial sewing machine and I am anxious to see how well it works.  I have several questions that I would like to ask you.  I am also looking for some details on your sun visor.  I would like to see how it is attached and would like some dimensions as well.   Thanks for posting.     Hugh

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WSP,  Great job,  Car looks fantastic.  Looks like red is your favourite colour.

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On September 10, 2019 at 9:57 AM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Your 1925-24 looks great!  The red and black looks really nice.  I am also currently in the process of doing the top restoration.   I just bought an industrial sewing machine and I am anxious to see how well it works.  I have several questions that I would like to ask you.  I am also looking for some details on your sun visor.  I would like to see how it is attached and would like some dimensions as well.   Thanks for posting.     Hugh

 I hope this will help, the visor slides over the top side iron ,and the cap and screw on the side hold the brace. The piece the visor is made from was 9 1/4 wide and 48 inches long. The flat part is 43 inches which is the distance on the outside of the window irons. It looks like 2 1/2 inch was bent at a 90 degree angle to provide the side support, and then cut at a tapered angle.The front of the visor has a "drip strip " across the 43 inches, must be for strength. It looks like it was welded on but it is absolutely seamless. Only wish I could do metal work like that.

  The back side of the visor had the center 40 inches  folded twice approximately 3/4 inch each time, this makes for strength on the back and room for the windshield wiper, it also was bent upwards in the middle about 1/2 inch must have been for drainage.

  I had a real challenge getting it over the top posts as I had replaced all the rubber gaskets in the windshield. I did it alone but only because I couldn't get it back off after I started, definitely a 2 person job especially after a high end paint job. 

   I had helped install several model A tops for some friends but never tried one from scratch. The only places that would make a top were 50 miles away with a year wait,  it was a challenge again, I had some upholstery experience and that was helpful. The old top made a good pattern but over time the old vinyl had shrunk and I wish I had allowed more for the shrinkage. I have been asked several times if I would attempt another, they couldn't pay me enough. Although I would attempt one for myself.

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You have made my day.   This is the first model 24/25 sun visor that I have seen up close, and you were kind enough to provide dimensions and photos that are not "10 footers".  I live in Texas and I desperately need a sun visor.  On the model 44 and 45 there is a separate pivoting boss that allows the sun visor to be set at any angle, and I have been wondering how they attached this visor and held it in place during enhanced motoring with only the windshield pivot.  I think the external visors are a neat looking accessory on all cars.  Another bygone item.  Larry DiBarry is going to look at one that will be coming to Hershey on a 1925-25S, and that was the first one I had seen in 4 years of looking.   

Do you have the metal thickness?  Thank you.     Hugh

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WSP and Hugh

 

I'm in the same boat as Hugh except that I am still confused!

Is the visor part of the top or separate and, if separate , where does it go when the top is down?

 

Brad

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Brad:

 The visor stays with the windshield when the top is down..DSCF5686.thumb.JPG.e8ca5007af87347c2c6431ee4d0bff77.JPG

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WSP

The front drip edge of the windsheild is interesting.  I was expecting to see it part of the sheetmetal and rolled up.   That is how I have seen it on all the others.  This looks like a heavier thickness and that would be a lot of tack welding.  Seems like a lot of work.  

 

I have also seen these covered in top material, but that may just be on the more expensive cars.  

 

I am also wondering if you have the sheetmetal piece that is top material covered that goes on the underside of the convertible top front bow and rests on the windwshield.  I made a drawing, but it would be nice to verify dimensions with an original one.

Hugh

 

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21 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

You have made my day.   This is the first model 24/25 sun visor that I have seen up close, and you were kind enough to provide dimensions and photos that are not "10 footers".  I live in Texas and I desperately need a sun visor.  On the model 44 and 45 there is a separate pivoting boss that allows the sun visor to be set at any angle, and I have been wondering how they attached this visor and held it in place during enhanced motoring with only the windshield pivot.  I think the external visors are a neat looking accessory on all cars.  Another bygone item.  Larry DiBarry is going to look at one that will be coming to Hershey on a 1925-25S, and that was the first one I had seen in 4 years of looking.   

Do you have the metal thickness?  Thank you.     Hugh

   It is 1/16 thick. The top seal was difficult to install,it had a strip of cotton batting in it, the ends were folded over and not sewn. I used a couple drops of super glue to hold the corners, once installed the screws put enough pressure to hold it in place. I had a new heavy duty sewing machine but it was about at its limit, I wished many times I had my grandmothers old singer. 

    Also I think I have to thank you for the great article on the 65-10 Marvel carb. It was through that article I stumbled onto this forum.

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WSP, 

    Thank you for the thickness.  Glad that the Carb rebuilding tech article worked for you.   I have lots of other articles if you need them.   I have done a lot of documenting along the way.  I may ask a few more questions about your top when I get to that stage.  I bought a used industrial sewing machine and when I got it home it kept breaking the thread after a few stitches.  I knew I should have tried it out before throwing it in the SUV.  After trying a few things and inspecting it over a couple of hours, I noticed that the seller had installed the needle 180 degrees around.  The slot for the thread was on the wrong side.  It came from an antique auto facility that had an upholstery person and they decided not to do that work in house any more.  Maybe the owner tried to use it and did not know how to get it working right.  Now it is sewing great, but I need to make a rear window before I can install the top.     Hugh

 

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I have the original back window frame and some of the material. The frame was wood held in place by some strips of burlap like is used for upholstery seats. The outside was a canvas with the rubberized paint and a lining was sewed on the inside. I toyed with the idea of putting the original back in ,but the top had been replaced in the 50's so I used that window instead.

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WSP:

Thanks for the photos of the original top. As you can see the original rear curtain window is quite complicated in assembly. The outer die cast frames simply disintegrated in most cases. This is about what was left of a frame a friend gave me from his 1928-25.

A 1925-24 roadster that was going to be "rat rodded" had the original rear curtain and window which I tried to buy off of a group of parts on Ebay. Long Story... But there was no sale of the spare parts which included a rebuilt engine, transmission and rear axle. It had all gone to scrap for $158.00!!! It still hurts. The finished POS did not have the top.

 

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  My friends 1927-54 with the factory original top showing the rear curtain with the beveled glass rear window.DSCF6031.thumb.JPG.878bb9c5285c0e440054510956f9ca80.JPGDSCF6034.thumb.JPG.70d7dab8eed6c97f79a4be89413c4c5b.JPG

1927-24 with original top.

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Larry, 

     A repaste of your photos here and some comments.  It does appear that they did use a metal strip in the hidem on some models.  I do have several original photos that show that the "20 and 30 series" may not have had the bright strip in the hidem.  They may have done this with some Burbank tops as you suggest and shown in the below photos on the more expensive and export models.  I am also wondering if all the visors were originally covered with top material, or again on only the more expensive or export models.    Hugh         


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