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Speedo repair shop


PWB

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Sometimes it is not the speedo instrument, but the cable or drive gear. The reason I say that as my speedo didn’t work so the guys on the forum guided me through some points. After the cable was replaced the speedo was inaccurate. A gent on the forum guided me to a company that makes an instrument that fits between the drive gear adapter and speedo cable.

To your question about a shop?

PM Tom Telesco knows of a shop in NC he likes a lot I cannot remember the name.

Turbinator

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What do you mean "bounce around a bit"???   I had a '63 that bounced around.  After checking for kinks/sharp bends in the cable turns out someone replaced the inner cable.  It wasn't cut to the correct length. I shorted it by 1/4" & all at that point was now OK.   Now the speedo was way off as far as accuracy goes.   I called & gave the repairer the requested info & an adapter was made that fit between the output of the trans. speedo gear & speedo cable.  Now the speedo was accurate.

For speedo repair I've been dealing with D&M restoration for years with no problems.  $$$ amounts don't matter as much as getting it correct the 1st. time matters the MOST!!!!   OR, go the less costly/cheaper way & after removing & replacing a half dozen times or so you just way overspent what it may have cost to spend a couple $$$ more in the 1st. place & KNOW it should be right the 1st. time. Yes, I have gone this route at times & you mostly NEVER come out ahead.

 

Tom T.

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1 hour ago, bodayguy said:

Guess it's not normal! Yeah mine bounces in maybe a 5 mph vicinity no matter the speed. Kinda charming tho.

Bodayguy, I believe there are things in cars some live with and others cannot bear the aggravation. My cigarette lighter doesn’t work and I could care less. My car is,a hard start and I’m having the carb rebuilt in the winter. My windshield wiper pump doesn’t work and I could care less. I never drive in the rain unless I’m caught in a rain shower on a road trip. My wipers work good.

 

i believe if know how things work in the car you have an easier time fixing the thing. Never knew how much science was in auto mechanics. The hot and cold affect some many things in your car. AC is a good example of a science project in your car.

 

TelRiv has it about as right as it can get. 

Turbinator

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4 hours ago, telriv said:

What do you mean "bounce around a bit"???   I had a '63 that bounced around.  After checking for kinks/sharp bends in the cable turns out someone replaced the inner cable.  It wasn't cut to the correct length. I shorted it by 1/4" & all at that point was now OK.   Now the speedo was way off as far as accuracy goes.   I called & gave the repairer the requested info & an adapter was made that fit between the output of the trans. speedo gear & speedo cable.  Now the speedo was accurate.

For speedo repair I've been dealing with D&M restoration for years with no problems.  $$$ amounts don't matter as much as getting it correct the 1st. time matters the MOST!!!!   OR, go the less costly/cheaper way & after removing & replacing a half dozen times or so you just way overspent what it may have cost to spend a couple $$$ more in the 1st. place & KNOW it should be right the 1st. time. Yes, I have gone this route at times & you mostly NEVER come out ahead.

 

Tom T.

Good labor isn't cheap, and cheap labor isn't good.

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Well I just got a rough estimate over the phone for close to $400 USD for a basic repair. (No restoration needed)

 

He did have apparently good advice as he stated “most new imported internal cables twist too much” which can cause bounce at lower speeds.

hmmmmm

 

 

Guess this is where we are these days...in the arms of imports. 😑

 

Edited by PWB (see edit history)
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Mine is not steady at highway speeds.  I cleaned and lubed the cable last winter and it got a litttle better, but not fixed.  Thinking of pulling the gear to see if its worn, but haven't gotten to it.  Replacement gears are pricey if you are from the chevvy world.  

 

 

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Zimm, I bought a couple drive gears. The first I ruined all by myself. Drive gears get worn so to check it you First have to put the transmission in reverse. The movement of the arms lets you reach the drive gear adapter. The second one I bought was replaced with one from a salvage yard. There is an instrument company in Texas that makes a part that compensates differences between the drive and speedo cable and fixes the the speedo. Now my speedo jumps a bit up to 10mph, then it’s as accurate as any speedometer. Tom Telesco (Tel Riv) knows the name of the company. The widget that fixed the speedo cost $113.00 plus shipping.

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14 minutes ago, cooterbfd said:

Odd. My Speedo was working, but the odometer wasn't. Found an NOS odometer drive gear, installed it, and now the speedo doesn't work, but the odometer does.....

Perhaps you did not reinstall the cup with the spring in correct position and/or the spring got disconnected.

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1 minute ago, PWB said:

Perhaps you did not reinstall the cup with the spring in correct position and/or the spring got disconnected.

Perhaps, but if memory serves me, there were no extra parts. I know the cup moves magnetically when the c shaped bar spins around it, which it does.

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If the spring is disconnected the pointer will not return.

if you over wound the spring an extra revolution the pointer will stay at zero.

If you reinstalled the springed cup a revolution before the stop detent the needle will go in reverse if you can reverse the cable rotation to test.

These are just some ways that can go wrong.

Be careful not to rotate the stop detent position as this affects the tension on the spring and make your reading go off cal.

 

Edited by PWB (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, cooterbfd said:

Odd. My Speedo was working, but the odometer wasn't. Found an NOS odometer drive gear, installed it, and now the speedo doesn't work, but the odometer does.....

Sir, sounds like you and I went to the same school to learn mechanics. I’m only kidding of course. Things on the Riviera are baffling at times.

Turbinator 

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7 hours ago, PWB said:

If the spring is disconnected the pointer will not return.

if you over wound the spring an extra revolution the pointer will stay at zero.

If you reinstalled the springed cup a revolution before the stop detent the needle will go in reverse if you can reverse the cable rotation to test.

These are just some ways that can go wrong.

Be careful not to rotate the stop detent position as this affects the tension on the spring and make your reading go off cal.

 

Paul, with you knowing all this stuff why would you want to hire a mechanic to fix your speedo for $400? Sounds like you know how this stuff works.

Turbinator 

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11 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Paul, with you knowing all this stuff why would you want to hire a mechanic to fix your speedo for $400? Sounds like you know how this stuff works.

Turbinator 

If the bushing In the speedo head is worn out it’s time to ship out or replace the whole head. And these ain’t no disposable Mustang parts.

 

 

 

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On 9/11/2019 at 4:37 PM, PWB said:

If the spring is disconnected the pointer will not return.

if you over wound the spring an extra revolution the pointer will stay at zero.

If you reinstalled the springed cup a revolution before the stop detent the needle will go in reverse if you can reverse the cable rotation to test.

These are just some ways that can go wrong.

Be careful not to rotate the stop detent position as this affects the tension on the spring and make your reading go off cal.

 

PWB, this particular problem is analogous to the AC on my 1963 Riv. If this then that only if the ambient temp and humidity are not normal. Actually, I was told all you need to know is in the 63 Service Manual.

i would send out my speedo for far less than what you have going on with your speedo.

Good Luck,

Turbinator

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