1941 straight 8 motor mounts

[squire_steve_]

Okay please don’t beat me for maybe asking a dumb question, but here it goes. 

So I bought what I was told a 41 248 motor. My question is I need motor mounts and to me this block seems to have a place where side motor mounts are supposed to go. I thought in 41 it still mounted in the front.

Do I have a later block or how is this motor supposed to be mounted???? 

Im putting it in a 36 Buick that I’m building. 

 

Thanks for any help 

steve 

[FLYER15015]

You will get an answer much faster if you post this on the Buick prewar technical forum.

 

Mike in Colorado

[Dynaflash8]

2 hours ago, squire_steve_ said:

Okay please don’t beat me for maybe asking a dumb question, but here it goes. 

So I bought what I was told a 41 248 motor. My question is I need motor mounts and to me this block seems to have a place where side motor mounts are supposed to go. I thought in 41 it still mounted in the front.

Do I have a later block or how is this motor supposed to be mounted???? 

Im putting it in a 36 Buick that I’m building. 

 

Thanks for any help 

steve 

You bought a motor for a 1948 or newer engine.  The 1949 was still 248 and the 1950 series 40 only was still a 248.  1950 series 50 and all 1951-53 motors were 263 cu in

 

[MCHinson]

If you post the engine number, it should be fairly easy to get the year identified positively.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Steve, no matter what the engine ultimately turn out to be,  it can be made to work in older cars, at least back through '37.  Not sure about '36. 

   If you post a picture of the drivers side, showing the water pump and the lower part of the block, it can be identified. Of course, as Matt said, engine number tell all.

 

  Talk to us!

 

  Ben

[squire_steve_]

12 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Steve, no matter what the engine ultimately turn out to be,  it can be made to work in older cars, at least back through '37.  Not sure about '36. 

   If you post a picture of the drivers side, showing the water pump and the lower part of the block, it can be identified. Of course, as Matt said, engine number tell all.

 

  Talk to us!

 

  Ben

Okay. I’ll post a picture when I get home 

 

thank you 

[squire_steve_]

14 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Steve, no matter what the engine ultimately turn out to be,  it can be made to work in older cars, at least back through '37.  Not sure about '36. 

   If you post a picture of the drivers side, showing the water pump and the lower part of the block, it can be identified. Of course, as Matt said, engine number tell all.

 

  Talk to us!

 

  Ben

Does these pictures help?

 

Edited August 25, 2019 by squire_steve_ (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

 Yep, sure does.  That is a 263 CI engine. If I am seeing what I think I see, it is a '51 or later, '50 being the first.  Looks like the narrow pulleys that started in '51. 

 

  To use the '48 -'53 engine in the earlier cars one has to use the mount/front plate from the older engine.  As I said earlier, I am not sure about '36. If you bought this engine right and you can't use it, all is not lost. The manifold is worth a bit and 263 engines , especially standard trans ones, are searched for fairly often.

 

  Ben

[squire_steve_]

20 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 Yep, sure does.  That is a 263 CI engine. If I am seeing what I think I see, it is a '51 or later, '50 being the first.  Looks like the narrow pulleys that started in '51. 

 

  To use the '48 -'53 engine in the earlier cars one has to use the mount/front plate from the older engine.  As I said earlier, I am not sure about '36. If you bought this engine right and you can't use it, all is not lost. The manifold is worth a bit and 263 engines , especially standard trans ones, are searched for fairly often.

 

  Ben

Thank you Ben. 

 

I planned on making my own motor mounts. I guess my next question for you would be. Can I make it mount on the side of the block or should I keep it mounted to the front? I just want to order the right parts and actually know what parts to order for the correct motor. 

 

Thank you for all all of your help 

Steve 

[squire_steve_]

16 hours ago, MCHinson said:

If you post the engine number, it should be fairly easy to get the year identified positively.

Where would the number be?

 Thanks 

Steve 

[squire_steve_]

Because of those mounting points on the block. It’s what made me feel like it’s a 1948. 

[pont35cpe]

Steve, you state your plan is to use this later model engine in a `36 Buick(40 series?). I`m putting a `41 dual carb 248 in my `36 40 series coupe, you will have to co-mingle some of the parts, like front motor mount, bell housing, flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate from the original 233 engine, by replacing these parts, engine will be a direct bolt in. Engine number is just to the front of the distributor.   Tom

[pont35cpe]

One other thing, the `36 engine is not tilted, its pretty close to level. I also had to modify the dual intake where the carbs mount... Tom

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

1 hour ago, squire_steve_ said:

Because of those mounting points on the block. It’s what made me feel like it’s a 1948. 

 

  Steve , those STARTED in 1948,  went through the last one in '53.

 

  Tom,  [ pont35cpe ]  will be someone you need to listen to, since he is doing the same.  If you follow his lead,  I believe you will just forget those "mounts" are there.

 

  In your last pic, the engine number pad is visible just in front of the distributor. Be aware,  what looks like an I  will be read as 1  , what looks like a b is 6 , or if inverted is 9.

 

  The engine you have is much superior to a 1941 you thought you had acquired.

 

  Ben

[squire_steve_]

6 hours ago, pont35cpe said:

Steve, you state your plan is to use this later model engine in a `36 Buick(40 series?). I`m putting a `41 dual carb 248 in my `36 40 series coupe, you will have to co-mingle some of the parts, like front motor mount, bell housing, flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate from the original 233 engine, by replacing these parts, engine will be a direct bolt in. Engine number is just to the front of the distributor.   Tom

 

Hey Tom,

yes you are correct. I wanted to put a newer with dual carbs straight 8 in my 1936 series 40. So I really appreciate your guidance. I am going to cheat and run a turbo 350 for my transmission. I ordered the adapter last week. So I’ll have to figure out that mount when the kit comes. 

 

Again. Thank you 

Steve

[squire_steve_]

4 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

  Steve , those STARTED in 1948,  went through the last one in '53.

 

  Tom,  [ pont35cpe ]  will be someone you need to listen to, since he is doing the same.  If you follow his lead,  I believe you will just forget those "mounts" are there.

 

  In your last pic, the engine number pad is visible just in front of the distributor. Be aware,  what looks like an I  will be read as 1  , what looks like a b is 6 , or if inverted is 9.

 

  The engine you have is much superior to a 1941 you thought you had acquired.

 

  Ben

Thank you Ben. 

I appreciate you taking time and helping me out.

 

Steve 

[squire_steve_]

23 hours ago, MCHinson said:

If you post the engine number, it should be fairly easy to get the year identified positively.

Here’s the serial number. 

70279534

[Rusty_OToole]

To level the carbs, you used to be able to buy tapered shims that go between carb and manifold. They are made for marine engines. Speed shops used to sell them. Maybe a marine engine dealer has something. Many carbs use the same base bolt pattern.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

12 minutes ago, squire_steve_ said:

Here’s the serial number. 

70279534

 

 

  Late 1952 or 1953 Special.    If it is a '53,   the final improvements are in the head, I have heard.

 

  Ben

[squire_steve_]

27 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 

  Late 1952 or 1953 Special.    If it is a '53,   the final improvements are in the head, I have heard.

 

  Ben

Thank you. Far from 1941 😂😂 but I know what I have now. 

 

Steve

[squire_steve_]

28 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

To level the carbs, you used to be able to buy tapered shims that go between carb and manifold. They are made for marine engines. Speed shops used to sell them. Maybe a marine engine dealer has something. Many carbs use the same base bolt pattern.

Awesome!! 

 

Thank you

Steve

[pont35cpe]

11 minutes ago, squire_steve_ said:

 

Hey Tom,

yes you are correct. I wanted to put a newer with dual carbs straight 8 in my 1936 series 40. So I really appreciate your guidance. I am going to cheat and run a turbo 350 for my transmission. I ordered the adapter last week. So I’ll have to figure out that mount when the kit comes. 

 

Again. Thank you 

Steve

Bendtsen Adapter? Since you are planning to use a 350 turbo, there is no bell housing to frame mounts, so it`s probably best to use the engine side mounts and transmission tail mount and tilt the engine so the carbs sit level. With the dual carb set-up the drivers side mount will be a tight squeeze clearing the exhaust pipe. You may also have to modify the front floorboard(hump over trans), and possibly the X-member of the frame for driveshaft clearance, you will also have to anchor the rear leaf springs at the front(they have shackles on both ends). Is you Buick a coupe or sedan? Also the 263 engine has hydraulic lifters.  Tom

[squire_steve_]

17 minutes ago, pont35cpe said:

Bendtsen Adapter? Since you are planning to use a 350 turbo, there is no bell housing to frame mounts, so it`s probably best to use the engine side mounts and transmission tail mount and tilt the engine so the carbs sit level. With the dual carb set-up the drivers side mount will be a tight squeeze clearing the exhaust pipe. You may also have to modify the front floorboard(hump over trans), and possibly the X-member of the frame for driveshaft clearance, you will also have to anchor the rear leaf springs at the front(they have shackles on both ends). Is you Buick a coupe or sedan? Also the 263 engine has hydraulic lifters.  Tom

Yes thats the adapter. And that’s what I was thinking would be best if there was no “bell housing” mounts used. That way the mounts weren’t so far apart. I noticed the exhaust will be tight but I’ll let my exhaust guy worry about that. Haha! 

I like your idea of mounting it in with the carburetors level. I think that’s what I’m going to do. I figured I’ll have some floor mortifications to make. Hopefully the X member will be okay. But I’ll cross that bridge. 

I already redid the leaf springs so there’s no shackles in the front anymore. My Buick is a coupe. 

 

Thanks again 

Steve

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Even though you are modifying it , glad you are staying Straight Eight. 

 

 PLEASE keep us in the loop.    Perhaps have a moderator move this thread on down into the Buick Forums, either to Me and My Buick,  or Modified.  Sooner or later some up here may climb your back. We will not down below. Your choice.   In  what part of the world are you doing this project?

 

  Ben

[pont35cpe]

Well alright Steve, you`ve got a coupe, and sounds like you have a plan. It doesn`t bother me that you are "personalizing" your car. How is the wood? I replaced just about all the wood in mine, made and installed it all myself(I`m an old carpenter). I`ve had mine together, but now apart for paint(I`m rather slow in that). Attached is a few pictures of my coupe in progress. We like pictures, so post a few of your coupe if you get the chance..  Tom

[squire_steve_]

17 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Even though you are modifying it , glad you are staying Straight Eight. 

 

 PLEASE keep us in the loop.    Perhaps have a moderator move this thread on down into the Buick Forums, either to Me and My Buick,  or Modified.  Sooner or later some up here may climb your back. We will not down below. Your choice.   In  what part of the world are you doing this project?

 

  Ben

Hey Ben, 

 

thank you. Yea I like to change mine up a bit but definitely keep the soul of the Buick. I’m new to this forum and I agree I feel like I never post where I’m supposed too. Sorry. But luckily enough of you guys know what you’re doing and have helped me out every time. This forum has been great to me. 

 

I live/build in Napa California. 

 

Thanks for your help 

steve 

[squire_steve_]

9 hours ago, pont35cpe said:

Well alright Steve, you`ve got a coupe, and sounds like you have a plan. It doesn`t bother me that you are "personalizing" your car. How is the wood? I replaced just about all the wood in mine, made and installed it all myself(I`m an old carpenter). I`ve had mine together, but now apart for paint(I`m rather slow in that). Attached is a few pictures of my coupe in progress. We like pictures, so post a few of your coupe if you get the chance..  Tom

Hey Tom

 

thanks for the pictures. I wish mine was that nice. Haha. So I carefully removed the wood, which was all rotten and re did it in steel tubing. I still have the doors to do but I’m happy with how the body turned out. I’ve built a 53 Buick Special and a 1940 Super Coupe. I like it when they don’t have wood. Hahaha. 

I’ll have to post a few pictures later. 

 

Steve 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Well, shucks.  Napa is a bit far for coffee this weekend. LOL. 

 

  You are OK on this site. Don't worry. If down in Buick more folks might see the thread. Some of them never come up here.   But WE WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU.  Their loss.

 

  Looking forward to those pics.

 

  Ben