Mad_Bohemian

There's GOT to be a way...Brake Accumulator

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Posted (edited)

I have found there are all sorts of hydraulic brake accumulators that can still be had (except for our TCs :( )  I'm not very knowledgeable on how that all works, but it would seem to me that the principles should be the same and one should be able to use  one from another vehicle... If it's a matter of matching up threads, adapters could be machined. Please educate me guys, what makes the TC accumulator the ONLY  kind that can be used....has anyone ever attempted a swap..??

Edited by Mad_Bohemian (see edit history)

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If I remember all the threads on this, the issue is simply clearance from the firewall and clearance from the hood. Some people have notched a clearance in the firewall to make other accumulators fit if I remember correctly. The other thing to be careful about is the pressure of the accumulator, some are higher or lower than the TC which could make a problem.

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When changing out  the old accumulator for a new one is it best to bleed the brakes with the old accumulator on or put the new accumulator on first and then bleed the brakes?

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Here's a PM I got from a member..
 

Quote

Accumulators are plentiful, buying quantity one at a reasonable price is the challenge. For $400 you can still get the factory original ATE accumulator with a Jaguar part number, double that price and you can get the exact same part with a Cesna part number. ATE will not sell retail direct quantity one to a private party.

With the dollar at todays value, the WABCO STC2784 delivered to your door from Range Rover Parts in England is best priced part from another car that is fully compatible physical size, thread fitting and operating pressure. Does hold a couple more cc's of fluid than the factory original ATE part so the resivour tank looks lower than it does with the ATE part when pressurized.

 

 

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I'm having a heck of a time trying to locate a replacement relay.  It's the black one that appears to be affiliated with the brake pump motor.  It's from under the hood in the black box on the passenger side (the box that contains this black one, the orange one, the green one and the two 30 amps fuses).  I had the hard brake thing going on so I put on a new accumulator and then found out the pump motor wasn't working.  I traced it over to this relay by jumping the the female side of the plug which activated the pump motor.  Does anyone know where to get one of these relays?

20190914_113131.jpeg

20190914_113158.jpeg

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1 hour ago, TC KER said:

I'm having a heck of a time trying to locate a replacement relay.  It's the black one that appears to be affiliated with the brake pump motor.  It's from under the hood in the black box on the passenger side (the box that contains this black one, the orange one, the green one and the two 30 amps fuses).  I had the hard brake thing going on so I put on a new accumulator and then found out the pump motor wasn't working.  I traced it over to this relay by jumping the the female side of the plug which activated the pump motor.  Does anyone know where to get one of these relays?

Have you pulled the fuse and checked the terminals that the fuse slips into? Most failures are due to the fuse and terminal burning away. 

5-Burnt fuse holder.jpg

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Hi Hemi,

 

Good to hear from you.  I scratched inside all 4 female parts of the plug in your picture and wire brushed all 4 male parts. I used a jumper wire from the top female plug (in your picture) to the one on the right side and the pump motor worked and the hard brake thing went away.  When I plug the relay back in the pump motor won't work. Do you think the relay is bad?

 

Thank you, Kerry

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I used a volt meter. I'm not very experienced doing this.  I took the two screws that hold the fuse box into place off and then turned the box upside down.  I put the positive pin of the volt meter before the 30a fuse and the negative pin of the meter on a random metal ground and got continuity (the same continuity as touching the meter pins directly to the battery). Then I did the same thing on the other side of the same 30a fuse.  I did this to both of the 30 amp fuses so they appear to be working correctly. Both 30 amp fuses are in new condition.

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2 hours ago, TC KER said:

I used a volt meter. I'm not very experienced doing this.  I took the two screws that hold the fuse box into place off and then turned the box upside down.  I put the positive pin of the volt meter before the 30a fuse and the negative pin of the meter on a random metal ground and got continuity (the same continuity as touching the meter pins directly to the battery). Then I did the same thing on the other side of the same 30a fuse.  I did this to both of the 30 amp fuses so they appear to be working correctly. Both 30 amp fuses are in new condition.

Well then, let me ask you this question... Have you checked the circuit that ACTIVATES the relay which go to the other 2 legs of the relay?  Here is a test procedure.

fullsizeoutput_1cf0.thumb.jpeg.8367e15721e71d03d38174c904c667c7.jpeg

You want to follow the check list to the right beginning with the words "Check motor fuse (30A). Go down the list.

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I'm working on the "check pump/motor current" and "check pressure control switch".  I'll let you know how that turns out. 

 

I found the motor relay to be good; I tested it by following this video:

 

 

 

 

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I was quite sure you would find the relay operational.

I would suspect the pressure switch first, the ABS controller last.

Check continuity of all related wiring. 

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7 minutes ago, Triple Black 1991 said:

It seems the Original part number for the black relay is 4463357.

So far it looks like an OE unit is avail through arizona parts (after he returns from vacation)

you could also try tcparts.com

"I found the motor relay to be good; " TC KER indicated that the relay was OK.

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The accumulator is the same as GM part 25528382 or Jaguar JMC1907. Chrysler discontinued the parts decades ago, the GM part has been "Discontinued" but the Jag part is still available, at a pretty high cost.  I ran those numbers on eBay and found several new units available for around $280+ with positive reviews, they are not specifically labeled by who manufactures them. These accumulators do have a shelf life of 10 years, so getting a "New Old Stock" unit may not be wise. 

Edited by Matthew Cody (see edit history)

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52 minutes ago, Hemi Dude said:

Time is running out on the ULTIMATE FIX See our ABS replacement article  Not because the instructions will go away, but your salvage yard stock is depleting.


That's the way I'd normally do it, but my 91 is an all original 46K mile example and I want to keep it as original as possible. I'm going to replace my accumulator along with a brake flush (never been done as far as I know)...now if I can find a lesser loved 90-91 V6 car I'd have fun, delete the Teves and do a manual transmission swap. 

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