1932 Buick 50

[o2zoom]

Looking for some advice on rear brake drum lug nut studs.   I have a broken stud and one that is stripped.  I see where someone had replaced the studs on the one side.  Not too pretty looking but works.  What I can’t figure out is how these things are anchored.  I don’t think they’re pressed on in the usual manner.  I found one stud that is slightly loose.  When I rotate it the entire thing moves, including what looks like the big flat end inside of the drum.   When I cleaned up the one broken stud the part that looks like a washer is actually part of the stud assembly and rotates on the one loose stud.   I don’t want to ruin the drum if at all possible.  I am more tempted to drill it out as opposed to trying to press it out.   Has anyone faced this problem and come up with the solution or knows how these things are anchored in the drum?  Thanks

[CTCV]

I have one broken in my 32 97 series. I talked to the 32 Guru, some know who he is, and he mentioned that some skid steer or backhoe bucket blades are held on by a similar bolt. Very flat head with a taper to the shank. On this taper are two raised , I'll call them a keyway, opposite each other that fall into slots in the drum to keep it from rotating. Originals had 2 but the blade bolts may only have one.

I have not yet verified this information. Your problem may be removing the weld.

Tony

[o2zoom]

Update

 

Hypothesis of how rear drum lug studs are anchored.   On the back view of the rear drum hub you can see where the stud that has two dogs goes in.  The dogs keep the stud from possibly rotating.  On the out board side you can see there is a beveled dish.  I believe the studs are pre-formed with the back side mushroomed with the dogs and the front side just below the threads is a thickened area that when pressed into the drum hub forms a mashed wedge that fills the beveled dish on the front side of the drum hub.  What basically happens is the lug is riveted to the drum hub.   I had to drill the threaded lug stud out and then take a dremmel  tool and cut away the portion of the stud that was mashed into the bevel.  What I found was that the stud could be drilled but the mashed portion in the bevel was extremely hard and would not drill.  Ruined a couple of bits before resorting to the dremmel tool.   These studs could have quite possibly be put in hot like a rivet and then pressed into place.  They can be replaced but it’s not the easiest task.   Remnant of the studs shows how it is sandwiched like a rivet.   

 

The earlier picture showing the studs welded was from an earlier owners repair.  Stock lugs have the large mushroom head on the in board side.   

 

 

[CTCV]

I had a broken stud on my 1932 Buick. Here is the end that I punched out and a similar bolt I bought at an Ace True Value. They do have different sizes. I bought one that was larger and turned it down and threaded it as needed.