gdmn852

New rear main seal

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Any one have use the new type seal on a straight 8 Buick and did it work ok.in process of changing mine out.Thanks Gary

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One thing that will help with oil leakage out of the rear main seal is to be sure that the bearing clearance is on the tight side of specification.  If not the crankshaft can "wander" around and allow more oil past the seal.

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Hello got the pan down and see that there is a lot rtv around rear bearing and doesn’t look if  the seals on sides of block are there .At least inside the block and pan are clean also rods are numbered so assume it was rebuild some time before I bought it.Thanks for the tip.Gary

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I have a method to stop rear main seal leaks in nailheads, 263 eights and maybe others:  WEBSITE

Some rebuilders just squirt RTV into the cavity for the side seals where it never hardens.

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Six years ago, my mechanic and I replaced the rope rear seal on my 1949 Super 51 during a minor engine rebuild/clutch job because it was leaking.  We used a neoprene seal instead of a rope seal.  The neoprene seal started leaking a few years later.  I'm back to living with a chattery clutch just like what I had before the rebuild.

  

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7 hours ago, old-tank said:

I have a method to stop rear main seal leaks in nailheads, 263 eights and maybe others:  WEBSITE

Some rebuilders just squirt RTV into the cavity for the side seals where it never hardens.

 

I can speak for Willie's method.  It worked on my 1947 Buick well.  

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Hello thank you for all of the reply’s the new rear seal is supposed to be here tomorrow ,so that will be a weekend project. I did get the supposed  “new and improved “one .Have to post how well it works when I get it in ,though most anything being an improvement.leaking about a quart in 500 miles 1st though it was the Dynaflow.Thanks again for all the posts and websites,hope this can also help others.Gary

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20 hours ago, gdmn852 said:

Hello thank you for all of the reply’s the new rear seal is supposed to be here tomorrow ,so that will be a weekend project. I did get the supposed  “new and improved “one .Have to post how well it works when I get it in ,though most anything being an improvement.leaking about a quart in 500 miles 1st though it was the Dynaflow.Thanks again for all the posts and websites,hope this can also help others.Gary

If your   “new and improved “ seal is a neoprene lip seal, I wish you luck.  The one I tried dumped 4 quarts of oil in 20 miles.  Careful checking 'after' I screwed up revealed that the seal groove in the block did not match the seal groove in the bearing cap, so the 'seal' was wiping oil to the outside.  So check that the grooves match exactly (lightly clamp small pieces of cardboard between the block and bearing cap and look at the witness marks).

The neoprene seal kit that I used had the lip seals and some side seals that you are supposed to expand with the supplied nail...all of those that I tried worked well on one side and was very loose on the other.  Stuffing string and sealer in the cavity is messy, but effective.

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Hello after the attendance of  D Day re-enactments in Ohio I finally got to work on Buick main seal.enclosed are pictures of it ,wasn’t packed tight rope seal seems too small. I was going to put in the seal type but think will get a new rope type.Back to work when it comes in ,along with the tools to install it.

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Rope seal install tools are a hammer handle and a razor blade....😉

 

Of course I was speaking of installing without a crankshaft in the way....

Edited by Frank DuVal (see edit history)

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