gdmn852 Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 Any one have use the new type seal on a straight 8 Buick and did it work ok.in process of changing mine out.Thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 One thing that will help with oil leakage out of the rear main seal is to be sure that the bearing clearance is on the tight side of specification. If not the crankshaft can "wander" around and allow more oil past the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdmn852 Posted August 13, 2019 Author Share Posted August 13, 2019 Hello got the pan down and see that there is a lot rtv around rear bearing and doesn’t look if the seals on sides of block are there .At least inside the block and pan are clean also rods are numbered so assume it was rebuild some time before I bought it.Thanks for the tip.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted August 13, 2019 Share Posted August 13, 2019 I have a method to stop rear main seal leaks in nailheads, 263 eights and maybe others: WEBSITE Some rebuilders just squirt RTV into the cavity for the side seals where it never hardens. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickBob49 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Six years ago, my mechanic and I replaced the rope rear seal on my 1949 Super 51 during a minor engine rebuild/clutch job because it was leaking. We used a neoprene seal instead of a rope seal. The neoprene seal started leaking a few years later. I'm back to living with a chattery clutch just like what I had before the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 7 hours ago, old-tank said: I have a method to stop rear main seal leaks in nailheads, 263 eights and maybe others: WEBSITE Some rebuilders just squirt RTV into the cavity for the side seals where it never hardens. I can speak for Willie's method. It worked on my 1947 Buick well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdmn852 Posted August 15, 2019 Author Share Posted August 15, 2019 Hello thank you for all of the reply’s the new rear seal is supposed to be here tomorrow ,so that will be a weekend project. I did get the supposed “new and improved “one .Have to post how well it works when I get it in ,though most anything being an improvement.leaking about a quart in 500 miles 1st though it was the Dynaflow.Thanks again for all the posts and websites,hope this can also help others.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 20 hours ago, gdmn852 said: Hello thank you for all of the reply’s the new rear seal is supposed to be here tomorrow ,so that will be a weekend project. I did get the supposed “new and improved “one .Have to post how well it works when I get it in ,though most anything being an improvement.leaking about a quart in 500 miles 1st though it was the Dynaflow.Thanks again for all the posts and websites,hope this can also help others.Gary If your “new and improved “ seal is a neoprene lip seal, I wish you luck. The one I tried dumped 4 quarts of oil in 20 miles. Careful checking 'after' I screwed up revealed that the seal groove in the block did not match the seal groove in the bearing cap, so the 'seal' was wiping oil to the outside. So check that the grooves match exactly (lightly clamp small pieces of cardboard between the block and bearing cap and look at the witness marks). The neoprene seal kit that I used had the lip seals and some side seals that you are supposed to expand with the supplied nail...all of those that I tried worked well on one side and was very loose on the other. Stuffing string and sealer in the cavity is messy, but effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdmn852 Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 Hello after the attendance of D Day re-enactments in Ohio I finally got to work on Buick main seal.enclosed are pictures of it ,wasn’t packed tight rope seal seems too small. I was going to put in the seal type but think will get a new rope type.Back to work when it comes in ,along with the tools to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 (edited) Rope seal install tools are a hammer handle and a razor blade....😉 Of course I was speaking of installing without a crankshaft in the way.... Edited August 21, 2019 by Frank DuVal (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Here is the GM tool for installing the rope seal when the crankshaft is not in the way. Can be used for the cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdmn852 Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 Got the tool kit to put seal in broke on 1st try then tried the molding seal and it didn’t work either.may put oil seal back in sell it as is have in Hemmings currently may drop price again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdmn852 Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 I think what I may do is reinstall old seal with the wire shims as per post ,the rubber seal got damaged trying to install.hopefully won’t be as bad as before but sell car as needing seal as least it can be driven that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdmn852 Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 Hello finally managed to get new seal in dropped the crankshaft down as far as I could and worked it in , not a job I would want to do again, so far no leaks plan to road test it more tomorrow,let it run for over 1/2 hour on jack stands ..Thanks for all the input and reply’s .Gary 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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