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Bog/hesitation during acceleration


macc

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Kev,

 

      Since the pedal is now hard to step on the link you hooked up needs to be adjusted properly.  Since it appears to run better now than ever you need to do some investigating. IF you disconnect the kick down from where you installed it have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor, engine NOT RUNNING. Make sure the choke is all the way open. It should be since you have a manual choke. Now take the rod you dis-connected & pull it forward kinda hard by hand. It has some spring tension on it. Now try to install it back into the hole from which it was removed while being extended.  Will it just slip right back in or does it need to be adjusted more to lengthen it???   These adjustments are in the chassis manual if you need more guidance.

   You will NOT feel a passing gear as there is not one.  The only thing you may feel is the car pulling forward at a faster pace & the engine RPM's will increase as the variable pitch converter kicks in.

    That smooth rush of power is one of the things people LOVE about the DynaFlow.  In drive there is NEVER any gear changes. The only thing connecting the engine to the rear wheels is a fluid transmission through the torque converter.  It's what MANY new cars are trying to achieve today with CVT trans., starting out in 2nd. gear, & in turn causes much added heat to the fluid which is not good for trans. longevity,  not downshifting to a lower gear until almost at a dead stop & letting the torque converter do all the slipping nec. for a smoother transition .

 

Tom T.

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  Buick interchanged the Rochester 4GC and Carter AFB on the 401 `63 through `66...check your shop manuals.

  I`ve used and rebuilt both and they are both basic 4 bbbl carbs, very easy to rebuild. My first Riv had one and it was the first 4bbl carb I rebuilt. I was 17...how hard could it be? On the other hand I did many mid-eighties  feedback carbs in my 20`s and those are challenging...

  Advantage of the 4GC is the cast iron base which is unaffected by the exhaust gases in the crossover passage so no need for the extra steel gasket and no fear finding a used carb with the base corroded beyond rebuilding. There is more hi perf stuff and info available for the AFB as they were used in many dual quad and high performance applications....but for a stock application who cares?

  Buick advertised the 4GC as being slightly easier on fuel and my experience mimics that claim. I have also noticed better part throttle response in the 4GC which probably directly relates to the fuel mileage. I have also had ALOT of experience with 4GC carbs on early/mid sixties Olds Starfires and experienced no atypical issues. I doubt most folks would notice a seat of the pants difference in a driver

Tom Mooney

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When I bought my 63 back in 82, it camecwith a 4GC.  At about 95K, it needed a rebuild.  I found a 63 in a salvagevyardcthat had a decent looking AFB on it.  I bought the AFB so I could drive the car while I rebuilt the 4GC.  When I got the AFB home and looked it over it had apparrently just been rebuilt.  I ran that AFB and sold the 4GC. Basic story line - I could tell no difference.  Someone said some time ago that they liked the AFB because there were no gaskets below the float level. Tomatoes or tomatos.

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3 hours ago, macc said:

Yeah driving in the heat is no fun, it’s been in the 100’s lately here. You add that with traffic and it’s a nightmare! 

I have been looking into the vintage air kits they have. Those might be a good option. 

Jackin around with the original AC design for the 63 and how it would compare with an aftermarket set up I have no clue. I just don’t know what else under the hood needs changing when you go to an aftermarket AC. I can’t make any recommendations because I really 

Have no experience. I can say I have cold air with the original design and I got a super heavy duty clutch fan.

Best of Luck

Turbinator

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Either an original Carter AFB or an original Rochester 4GC is going to be easier to tune, and run significantly better than the Chevrolet carburetor you are currently using.

 

As others have mentioned, you will see very little if any difference from the 4GC to the original AFB; but a huge difference from what you currently are running.

 

Jon.

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10 hours ago, telriv said:

Kev,

 

      Since the pedal is now hard to step on the link you hooked up needs to be adjusted properly.  Since it appears to run better now than ever you need to do some investigating. IF you disconnect the kick down from where you installed it have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor, engine NOT RUNNING. Make sure the choke is all the way open. It should be since you have a manual choke. Now take the rod you dis-connected & pull it forward kinda hard by hand. It has some spring tension on it. Now try to install it back into the hole from which it was removed while being extended.  Will it just slip right back in or does it need to be adjusted more to lengthen it???   These adjustments are in the chassis manual if you need more guidance.

   You will NOT feel a passing gear as there is not one.  The only thing you may feel is the car pulling forward at a faster pace & the engine RPM's will increase as the variable pitch converter kicks in.

    That smooth rush of power is one of the things people LOVE about the DynaFlow.  In drive there is NEVER any gear changes. The only thing connecting the engine to the rear wheels is a fluid transmission through the torque converter.  It's what MANY new cars are trying to achieve today with CVT trans., starting out in 2nd. gear, & in turn causes much added heat to the fluid which is not good for trans. longevity,  not downshifting to a lower gear until almost at a dead stop & letting the torque converter do all the slipping nec. for a smoother transition .

 

Tom T.

As a Nissan parts manager, I can tell you all about CVT headaches.

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14 hours ago, RivNut said:

I could tell no difference. 

 

So common in so many things. It all goes back to "how do you think they sold it off the showroom floor if it was as bad as claimed".

 

When a worn out part is replaced as recommended by the peer group it always seems better. Original part would have worked just as well.

 

I  accelerate easy but drive fast. It is very hard to tell the difference between the 4400 pound '60 Electra Dynaflow and the 4900 pound V12 BMW with a ZF 6HP26 electronic transmission, although I do notice the 2-1 downshift on the ZF at times. (probably an aging Quibo joint)

 

My Electra has a 4GC, my Riviera has an AFB. There is no noticeable difference.

 

Our mailman sees my old cars and might call me a purist because he does deliver a Summit Racing catalog subscription to my house. That's just because I fix the original system first and am usually happy.

Bernie

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15 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

 

So common in so many things. It all goes back to "how do you think they sold it off the showroom floor if it was as bad as claimed".

 

When a worn out part is replaced as recommended by the peer group it always seems better. Original part would have worked just as well.

 

I  accelerate easy but drive fast. It is very hard to tell the difference between the 4400 pound '60 Electra Dynaflow and the 4900 pound V12 BMW with a ZF 6HP26 electronic transmission, although I do notice the 2-1 downshift on the ZF at times. (probably an aging Quibo joint)

 

My Electra has a 4GC, my Riviera has an AFB. There is no noticeable difference.

 

Our mailman sees my old cars and might call me a purist because he does deliver a Summit Racing catalog subscription to my house. That's just because I fix the original system first and am usually happy.

Bernie

Bernie, what repairs I do make I stay with original design and replacement parts. When general accepted practice is known to modify an existing design I buy in. By example, grounding the 1157 bulb socket on a 63 Riv tail light makes the the light blink and shine much better. 

Turbinator

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