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1922 Starter generator


Mark Kikta
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Mark, 

     I would GENTLY use a little wax and grease remover on a paper towel and just clean off the majority of the armature without using much pressure.   That insulation can be very fragile, and if you leave it alone it can work fine even though it does not look very clean.  Undercut your generator armature surface and you should be good to go.    Hugh

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Today I finished cleaning up the Case and end pieces of the starter generator portion.  Looks like I need a couple of brushes that are very near their limits.  I believe I will replace some of the brittle/ decaying wiring with modern rubber coated wire.

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When you go to assemble it, I think you'll find it easier to install the brushes last after everything else is in place.

Juggling the brushes and trying to install the armature is difficult if the breushes are in place first.

 

I just rebuilt three '18 Buick SG's. Fortunately the brushes were OK.

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I can’t tell by your picture but if the wire you want to replace attaches to the movable brush assembly you will need to replace it with something like this. 

 

https://smile.amazon.com/Electrical-Silicone-Flexible-temperature-resistance/dp/B0756TDXJ9

 

you must use high strand count wire which is very flexible. You do not want to reduce the flexibility if it attaches to a movable brush. 

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Here are a couple of pictures of the wire I am most concerned with.  The insulation is deteriorated at three locations and yes it is on one of the movable brush holders.  So I see why you say it needs to remain flexible.  If I shrink wrap this wire it will lose some of it's flexibility.  I am going to order some of that flexible wire stvaughn mentioned to see how it feels before I decide how to deal with this one.

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Mark, 

      A previous owner used some wire sleeving in my starter generator for the same issue.  This is more durable and flexible than heat shrink.  See Sleeving and then fiberglass high temperature sleeving.  McMaster Carr sells it.  Just another option.  Shown here in yellow.   You can also see the heat shrink used on the left.     Hugh

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-sheathing

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Mark,

I replaced the wire you show. All were shot, one had been in a fire.

That wire follows the brush and must flex some. I agree with your concers. But you must use high strand count wire for flexability.

 

I would like to find suitable starter brush material so I could machine up a spare set. Mine might last only another 50 years!

 

One of the crazy things is that the one starter brush is always in contact with the commutator.

 

I also ahd to replace the little rollers on the brush lifting arm

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I ordered the wire from Amazon that said "Soft and Flexible 1050 Strands 0.08 mm of Tinned copper wire High temperature resistance"  Anxious to see what it is like.

 

My rollers in the photo below look OK to me but could use some lube after cleaning.  Did you lube your rollers with anything?

 

I am told there is a company here in Baltimore that will make brushes.  Now I'm just trying to find out who they are.

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Mark :

 It looks like you are going through the S/G meticulously so I believe you will have a great reliable unit. And yes where the wires are frayed and need replaced the newer high strand count and high temp insulation is a good choice. I have a small section of the roller material  in case you need it. Sometimes there is a flat spot or they crack or break from hard use.

 

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I made my brollers from phenolic and didnt use lubricant. The lube might collect brush dust and jam things up.

As long as the roller is free, rotates and has no flats it is OK.

 

A friend bought brushes and they cost a small fortune. I'm willing to make mine if I can find the correct material.

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I went ahead, gave in and ordered a full set for my 22.   This way I can change them all out at once and no more worries.   I also decided to go ahead and use that wire that I ordered to replace all the wiring in my S/G.  It was all very soft tinned copper so it should work fine.

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11 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Mark, 

    Where did you get the hack saw for the armature.  I used a broken off hack saw blade and it seemed Ok, but slightly wider than I wanted for the task.    Hugh 

Grind the kerf off of the teeth. 

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Yes I sure did.  The picture had 5 brushes that I closely compared with mine.  There was an application chart also that showed this kit fitting 1918-1922 I believe.  I ordered the kit with 2 large recessed brushes and 3 smaller others. Two with 2 holes and one with 1 hole.  My S/G is a model 184 which was on the application list.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I bolted the distributor case onto the starter generator and assembled it.  It all went together relatively easy.  During assembly I lubed everything with grease.  I left the points and cap off for now since I’m still waiting for one of the distributor clips to show up because of mine was broken.

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Advance Electrical Rebuilders in Michigan did a complete rebuild for the Starter/Generator on my 1914 Buick B-37

Jason, the owner, did a fantastic job.

I highly recommend his work.

 

http://www.aerrebuild.com/

 

Welcome To AER

Advanced Electrical Rebuilders is not your typical “Auto Electric” rebuilder. We specialize in the odd, rare and unique units that most rebuilders stay away from. Our primary focus is on the antique auto market, restoring Generators, Starters, Distributors, Regulators, Solenoids and more.We have the experience, capabilities, resources and equipment to restore or repair any unit that comes through the door no matter what its age, application or condition.

The goal of this website is to provide potential customers with a virtual showroom where you can see our attention to quality and detail as well as our wide range of capabilities. Hopefully we have accomplished this so you can feel comfortable with your decision to allow us to work on any unit that you may have needing service.

If we have missed something or if you have any questions please feel free to contact us using the provided toll-free phone number, email or contact us form. We hope to meet or speak to you in person soon and look forward to taking care of any restoration or repair you may need. Thanks for stopping by!

 
AER  16574 S. Bauer Rd Grand Ledge, MI 48837
 
Antique Auto

Advanced Electrical Rebuilders experience and knowledge of the antique auto electric industry combined with the highest quality standards and attention to detail make AER the best choice when it comes to choosing someone to service your product.

AER is always expanding our list of services offered. Our current list includes, but is not limited to the following:

  • Starters
  • Starter-Generator Combo Units
  • Distributors
  • Solenoids
  • Mechanical Window Regulators
  • Ignition Coils
  • I.D. Tags
  • Sirens
  • Generators
  • Coil Winding 
  • Voltage Regulators
  • Cutout Relays
  • Overdrive Solenoids
  • Magnetos
  • Horns

Our restoration process is very thorough and all components are individually inspected and tested for proper performance. The completed unit is then load tested just as would be if installed on the vehicle. No unit or component will ever leave our shop if there is any question as to it’s performance.

Our superior quality standards and attention to detail include restoring the units appearance back to it’s original showroom look. This can include original appearance paint, powder coating, wrinkle paint, re-plated hardware and new reproduction I.D. tag with original numbers where applicable. AER has experience with all of the following brands used in the antique auto industry:

 

Delco * Remy * Delco-Remy * Auto-Lite * Owen-Dyneto * Bosch * Westinghouse * Simms-Huff * Connecticut
Northeast Electric * Bijur * Leece-Neville * Gray & Davis * Splitdorf * Wagner * Lucas

 

(If you click on the below links, you will see photos of Before/after work on the units - Marty)

1922 Earl Generator

1922 Earl Generator

1922 Earl Generator

1922 Earl Generator

1932 Oldsmobile Generator

1932 Oldsmobile Generator

1932 Oldsmobile Generator

1932 Oldsmobile Generator

1937 Plymouth
Starter

1937_Plymouth_Starter_Before_TH.jpg

1937 Plymouth
Starter

1937 Plymouth Starter

1937 Lincoln
Water Pump

1937 Lincoln  Water Pump

1937 Lincoln
Water Pump

1937 Lincoln Water Pump 
 
Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

MISSING DISTRIBUTOR PART

 

Somehow in the process of taking apart the Distributor portion of my starter-generator, I have lost a piece. I assume it was buried in the tons of petrified grease I removed from the inside and was accidently overlooked in the mess.  I can't believe it could have happened but it did.  The part I am missing is called the advance yoke stop, Buick part number 26038 and it is used in 21-22 6 cyl models.  I hoping someone has a carcass that they would sell or one that has this part inside that they would sell.  Any suggestions welcome!    

distributor drawing from Dycks Manual.jpg

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