SummitA

1915 touring project begins

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Hi everyone

i'm new to early Buick's. just acquired this modified back in the day 1915 touring C25 i believe.  Though not a candidate for restoration I plan on getting it running and keeping it as close to as is as possible. I am beginning mechanical work with the brakes. I am trying to remove the shoes for relining and having a problem with the knurled knob  in the left of the picture. Is there a trick to removing it to get the shoes off or might it just be frozen and need careful persuasion?  Also discovered a nasty surprise on the axle as pictured. Is there a source for replacement axles or is it a machine shop issue? ls any one know a source of useful repair and parts manuals?

 I'm sure i will be posting  around a million more questions so thanks In advance.

 

14 buick find.JPG

1915 brskes.jpg

1915axel.jpg

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That is a nasty crack.  I have this note as I spent a lot of time trying to locate a rear axle for my car.    Langills was recommended by the horseless carriage club.  
-For replacement axles (around $500 ea) - Use
-Langills General Machine Inc, Sacramento CA.  www.langills.com 
-The material is 4340 quenched and tempered stress relieved.  Ends are heat treated to 28-32 RC. 
The photo below is of the axles in 1925.  Same poor steel.     Hugh
 
1788845481_axlecrack1.thumb.jpg.1b71f726a531cdfbe17a79fb626b5285.jpg1947413279_Axlecrack2.thumb.jpg.0b10fb24d376e03e18d22b1e56755f2a.jpg
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Posted (edited)

The Buick Heritage Alliance has reproductions of  1915 reference books and parts lists,  Also manuals do come up on Ebay.

Edited by ROD W (see edit history)
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I am restoring the same car, 1915 C25.  Please let us know where you live and if you mean to say the fastener on the left of your photo, it should unscrew, coarse thread fairly robust.  Here is a picture of one of my problems, loose rivets for the backing plate, also the point where the rear axle torsion rod attaches to the frame had loose rivets.  Modern brake linings are available and without asbestos.

 

Regards, Gary

 

DSC_1947.JPG

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Thank you Gary.  I live in Maine my car came out of NH and was in the same family since new it has a lot of home made modifications. It looks to me like it was perhaps a speedster type build a long time ago.

Yes I mean the round nob like fastener in the picture it seems frozen tight the shoes do move that it goes through. normally i would just "get a bigger hammer" approach but i dont dare risk breaking anything on this car:)  I have been applying PB blaster on it. wont budge yet on either side. Backing plate is tight on mine. I have relined Ford A brakes. Could you tell me where to find linings for this?

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Heat can help break it loose.

A while back, we had replacement return springs made. I think they eneded up at Bobs

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16 hours ago, SummitA said:

Also discovered a nasty surprise on the axle as pictured. Is there a source for replacement axles or is it a machine shop issue?

 

1915axel.jpg

 

As a temporary fix, you may be able to grind out that crack, fill it with weld, and re-turn the taper.  It would be much cheaper (and likely faster) than a new axle, and you could keep moving with other areas of the project while you source a replacement.

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Yes!  i am hoping so. new axles are not in the budget now  i have a machinist friend coming to take a look  Thanks 

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11 hours ago, cxgvd said:

fastener on the left of your photo, it should unscrew, coarse thread fairly robust.

Correct.  It should be retained with a cotter key too. 

 

I just did the brakes on my 13 Model 31 Buick and that fastener was missing.  The previous "mechanic" actually used a tight fitting washer and peened the end of the treaded shaft to lock everything in place.  I removed it and restored it with parts from a spare rear end I have.

IMG_20190711_112736229_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190711_112724068.jpg

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Try heating it with a propane torch, getting it just hot enough that a paraffin candle will melt and flow into the threads when rubbed onto the end.... 

 

Glenn Manes

Wheat Ridge CO

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2 hours ago, Glenn Manes said:

Try heating it with a propane torch, getting it just hot enough that a paraffin candle will melt and flow into the threads when rubbed onto the end.... 

Worth a try, but I suspect it will take oxy/acetylene to get it hot enough. 

I used a large pair of Channel-lock pliers to wiggle it back & forth before the original threaded fastener came off.

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Sorry for being a bit off topic, but does anybody know if the axle shafts (and hubs) interchange  between 4 cyl (D35) and 6cyl  (D45) models of 1916/17 age? I was offered a decent set of some 32 3/4 llong shafts and not sure if it can be used for my 1917 D45.

 

thanks for any advice.

 

Josef

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The rear axle assembly on the 6-Cylinder models is of the 'full-floating' design.  The 4-Cylinder models used the 'three-quarters floating' design.  There was very little commonality of parts between the 4's and the 6's.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Hi Terry,

 

thanks for the response. So - any idea about the lenght of D45 shafts? I suspect that the parts I am offered come off 4 cyl model but I have no way to prove it. 

 

Josef

 

image.thumb.png.4e37c61a5a0d5238a490b3aec3f16e56.png

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I’d all so be looking for two axels for a 4 cyl 1915  if any are out there😊

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I will try to reiterate the question again / does anybody know the lenght of axle shafts for 1917 6 cyl model D45?  @SummitA - do you know what lenght you need for your car?

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Posted (edited)
On ‎8‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 10:22 PM, SummitA said:

Also discovered a nasty surprise on the axle as pictured. Is there a source for replacement axles or is it a machine shop issue?

 

1915axel.jpg

 

This is an easy decision.  Go to a machine shop and get new axles made with new steel.  The price & information that Hubert states is a reasonable price. 

 

DO NOT get another axle from an old car.   I have had an axle break on my 1915 Buick Truck, Dave Brennen had an axle break on his 1915 Buick Touring car, a C34 I believe.  The metallurgy that year for axles was not that good and we are not the only persons that I have heard of with broken axles.  Get two new axles made.  Do the "once and done" so you will not need to take the axle out a second time.

 

Here are a couple of pictures of one of my old axles.  These pictures are of both ends of the same axle.

 

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Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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SummitA, where are you in Maine?  The C25 I am working on is located in Cape Neddick.  I removed the "wide flanged screws" that hold the rear of the outer brake bands with heat as was previously suggested.  I ended up making new ones on my lathe when it went back together. 

IMG_2745.JPG

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Hi

Thanks good info I finally worked the nuts loose with heat and got the brake bands  off. I do not know the length of my axles as i am not ready to take the rear end apart and haven't got any parts books yet. The car is worth replacing the axles if i can. i have machinist friends who may be able to help. Sounds like repair of originals is not recommended? I live in Harrison   PM me for my phone number if you wish. 

 

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I'll send you a PM tonight.  Are you in need of windshield (frame) parts?  If you do I can probably help with that.

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