Slow then no Crank

[Richard Patterson]

Me again...    Trying to get the car started after sitting for 17 years.   I did change the fluids, changed the plugs, changed the starter solenoid, soaked the cylinders...   when i turn on the ignition I hear the gas pump humming, push the ignition and get 1 or 2 slow cranks..  then nothing.   Just hear the click of the starter but nothing more...    thoughts?   I am out of ideas.

[Matt Harwood]

Good battery? Good, big cables? Good grounds? The #1 reason for slow cranking on six volt cars is bad grounds, followed closely by undersized battery cables. 6V cars need BIG cables and CLEAN grounds. If all those are good, I might also check the starter bushings, which can cause hard starts. But it's usually one of those other things. If you still have your old starter solenoid, maybe swap it out and see--new solenoids are not necessarily better.

 

Keep eliminating variables and it'll start, I promise!

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

This will sound nuts, but I read it in a Ford service book------factory-----

jump your 12 volt battery positive to the ground-----yes 6 still hooked up for ignition, the neg or "hot side" to the starter

cable off the starter---it will cranklike a mother, and should start, all else being equal...the solenoid isolates the 

hot 12 volts from the system....

DONT HOOK TO THE BATTERY SIDE OF THE SOLENOID OR YOU WILL SPARK AND BURN THINGS..

THE STARTER CAN HANDLE 12 VOLTS NO PROB....

These engine start much easier after they have been runs and oil circulated a few times....after that , I bet youi have

small or nasty cables from battery to solenoid, or solenoid to starter---you must use large heavy duty 6 volt cables...

modern 12 volt cables, pretty and available from autozone will not functionm, too thin, too much resistance

 

 

Edited August 2, 2019 by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

[Richard Patterson]

thanks..   it has the original (big ugly cables and the braided ground)...    I was going to try and disconnect the ground from the frame to see if there is something keeping it from grounding correctly..    I had the same problem with the original solenoid...  new battery and put the meter on it...   it is putting out 6 volts and i have 6 volts going into the solenoid..     I pulled the starter last night and the bushings "looked" fine and it was pretty clean...  

 

[certjeff1]

Do you have a group 2 battery? Many auto parts stores sell the group 1. They look the same but it is too small for the Lincoln. What happens to the voltage at the battery. at the starter solenoid and at the starter during the 1 or 2 cranks? 6 volts when the starter is not cranking does not tell us much but voltage readings during cranking tells us a lot.

[Richard Patterson]

Thank you everyone...   Lincoln started!   Think it was one of the grounds ...  cleaned them up and it cranked right up.     Appreciate the help....  drove it for about 10 miles, have some work to do with the clutch but all in all, great progress!

[larry butcher]

I know this is going to sound like "overkill", but  if this car has sat for 17 years ; change the oil and oil filter "AGAIN"!  You may be surprised what comes out.  Small price

to  save the bearings  and perhaps the oil pump 

[Richard Patterson]

actually, GREAT advice.. thanks Larry.   I have an oil leak from the container that the filter sits in anyway so need to see if I can fix that..    Appreciate all the help.   I have a long list of things i need to address with her but at least having her on the road is a start!

[Ray500]

And get a new Optima 6 volt battery for the best results.  They won't leak all over the battery shelf either like traditional lead-acid ones do.  You can get a Lincoln script cover for the Optima to give it the look of a traditional battery.  I also put an alternator which is housed in a traditional generator housing so it's very original looking but the battery will be charged at idle speeds unlike the old generators.  Not exactly how it was originally but a lot safer to drive and better reliability of operation.