Anyone have a pre-1930 daily driver?

[Peter Gariepy]

Does anyone on the forum still have a pre1930 automobile that they use for a daily driver -- or at least a 3-4 times a week? I'd love to hear about their experiences.

Peter

[Guest]

I've had several over the years but the most frequently used were '27 Buick standard six coach {daily driver for 12 years}. '28 Essex sedan {4x a week} '32 Nash {Daily driver for a year} '15 Stellite {3x a week} and many others that get/got driven frequently including long distances.

[Guest Skyking]

Again I'll state, I don't know if I'd use an early car as a daily driver. It's a nice sunny day here today and I took my 66 Skylark out to a friends, about eight miles from my house. As I was driving there I noticed alot of crazy'er people on the road than ever and I wasn't even on the freeway. Most are on cell phones and not paying attention to driving. I don't know where all you people live, but here it's starting to get scary. It's seems the newer & more exspensive the car, the crazy'er they drive. Do others here feel the same way, or is just it me??

[Guest]

politically incorrect observation. the scariest of these "crazy" drivers seem to be young 20 to 35 year old females. they have a cell phone in one ear and a cup of coffee in the other hand and are driving right on your ass. yesterday one of these "ladies" ran a stop sign and almost T-boned me. yep, she was on the phone. last summer the same brand of driver plowed into the back of my wife at a light. her explanation, i was on the phone and thought the light had changed. my wife also thinks this particular brand of drivers are the worst on the road.i guess teenage boys with their hats on backward are just as bad but they are younger and supposed to be stupid. not trying to change the subject of the thread. just adding to skykings comments.

denver driver

[Guest]

Hi Peter...this is Peter....!

Not sure how much use this will be to you in your survey, as my vehicles are a bit too "new" for your inquiry......but my '36 American La France fire engine IS "Engine Three" of the Paulden Vounteer Fire Dept. I dont "roll" on a REAL call very often...thank heaven....but it does happen...my turn-out coat is on the seat...and she DOES start instantly. I probably drive it into town about every 2nd week.

The '38 Packard Twelve, is another story...it has been "out of service' for several weeks in 1956, and again in the late 1960's. Other than those periods....(ooops...forgot about a two-week down-time last winter for the new radiator)....it IS an active "second car" !

Pete Hartmann

P.S...Did you see my note elsewhere about the truck stop I pulled into...when my brakes ( I do heavy equipment hauling ) on my "big rig" started to get hot......had a Classic Coke.....to wash down my Kentucky Fried CLASSIC Chicken......on the way out, noticed a CAPRICE CLASSIC in the parking lot, which adjoined the lot for CLASSIC UPHOSLTERY.....where a GMC truck...which was also a CLASSIC...( said so..right on the side....! )...was getting fixed up......now.....wasnt THAT a truly "classic" experience......!

Pete Hartmann

[Guest]

Do you also watch the PGA "CLASSIC" while listening to "CLASSICAL" music and downing a taco bell "CLASSIC" burrito?after all it takes real class to maintain such a lifestyle....................

[Guest]

WE drive all our cars .no trailor queens.1920stud touring 1930 modela 1922cleveland and many more

[Guest]

Post deleted by 58rebelsport

[critterpainter]

Well...it's not a Daily Driver... but I ahve a 29 ford roadster pickup that is my "ranch truck" I use it to haul hay-fix fence-haul rocks-hop over to the neighbors etc.

Once or twice a year I drive it into town just for the heck of it (13miles one way)

Bill

[Peter Gariepy]

It was a bit of a leading question... In the past 15 years my daily drivers have been in order: 56 Plymouth Plaza 2dr sedan, 60 Cadillac SDV, 59 Desoto Fireflight 2dr HT, 1963 Corvair Convertible, and a 1962 Lincoln 4 door Convertible.

When my youngest child was born my wife convinced me I needed a "new" car, one that started every time and had air conditioning. (I live in Arizona after-all) I bought a Dodge Dakota RT, (hotrod) then traded that for a 2000 Chrysler 300m (sporty 4 door).

Now that my youngest is almost 4 the need for a "reliable air-conditioned" car isnt paramount anymore. I miss driving the old iron. Therefore I'm now REALLY considering a daily driver from the 20s. Nothing to expensive - probably a 4 door sedan. Definitely a car that can keep up with in-town traffic and has good brakes. I'll certainly make sure the car safe - glass, brakes, better lights, etc.

I currently put less than 5000 miles a year on my current daily driver. My office is less than 3 miles from the office and i dont have to drive on any major roads. If i do have to make longer trips across town, etc. then I'll use the 300m.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Now the big question is... what cars are good candidates? Chrysler products are currently at the top of the list because of the hydralic brakes. What else may fill me needs? My only pre-requisite is that it be pre-1930.</span>

I look forward to your input.

Peter

P.S. I don't find drivers any worse now than they have been in the past.

[Guest]

Peter,

First why is it i seem not to be able login all the time any more...Scott W. taylor aka 56 Roadmaster?

Now, I'd say BUICK, BUICK, BUICK or if you could get it... a Stearns 45-90 yahoo!!

I think in terms of things available, the Buicks from 1911 on would make a great candidate. Especially in the 1920's you just can't beat those OHV engines, simple, smooth, and full of torque not to mention a positive oiling system. and just in case you care the OHV design is less of a polluter than the flat heads ( i.e. Chrysler, Packard and company... not to say that I don't like them too) Plus parts still fairly available and the electrical system is reliable.

[ex98thdrill]

In New York state with snow and salt, I don't believe that there are many daily drivers out there that are more than 15-20 years old. Usually after that amount of time passes, the cars are pretty well wore out and ate up from the salt. If it's a unibody car, by that time, they're either close to be, or have already rusted in two.

[Peter Gariepy]

56Roadmaster - the server was down for about 20 min tonight. If your having trouble logging in thats a different problem. Please post your tech questions in the "forum questions" forum. I'll respond there.

ex98thdrill - I live in Arizona. No rotting issues here.

Peter

[Peter Gariepy]

56Roadmaster - had not thought of Buick. How are their brakes?

Peter

[R W Burgess]

PeteG, Not to change the subject, but how about some more pictures of that new house with the funny wall studs?

[Guest]

Peter - this is Peter.

Have you really thought this thru. A bone stock car from before the mid-1930's.....ANY car....is really not going to work out well as a daily driver, not in YOUR climate...even if you stay off the main highways, i.e. plan on keeping your speed under 50 mph. UNLESS....you plan ahead...and do some "tinkering".

Things to think about......

1) final drive gearing that is so low...you can't even order a dump truck these days with gearing that low unless you "special order". If you ever get a chance to drive "Route 66" ( as it is incorrectly called...! ), from the Needles valley over thru Goldroad and Oatman, up Sitgreaves Pass, to Kingman, you'ill understand ( Peter G is a fellow Arizonian - so this is "do-able" for him) why cars were geared that low - cruising speeds were so much lower, that engineers understood they damn well better make the cars responsive at those lower speeds. I strongly recommend that old car buffs take advantage of the State Of Arizona's sections of "Old 66"...they are a great learning tool to give you an idea of the enviornment the old cars were designed for.

Secondly, there was no such thing as the modern "tri metal" heavy duty "insert type" connectign rod bearing, so ALL cars of that era had "poured babbit" rod bearings.... subject to rod bearing failure if "pushed" too hard. One of the "chatters" in one of these "threads" posted some test reports that most cars would "burn a rod bearing" if subject to sustained high speeds, in only a few thousand miles.

It isn't THAT big a deal to install an over-drive, and pull the engine's connecting rods out, have a machine shop use a Sun Hone to set up the rods for a modern "insert" rod bearing...and then and ONLY then, can you really enjoy a car that old as a "daily driver".

Another problem for Peter G...he lives in the "other" Arizona.....( MY Arizona..the northern part of the state...is high altitude country....I live in a valley....the base of which is HIGHER than the highest mountains east of the Missouri River )....where it gets damn hot. Figure in your budget several hundred bucks to have a radiator shop use your old radiator top an bottom tanks, and build in a modern tube-type radiator core. This is a "must", because ALL radiators in service for more than thirty years or so will be badly clogged with minderal deposits...and in the heat you have to deal with...you need all the cooling capacity you can get.

Dont forget to run down to your local NAPA store and get a 6 volt LOW PRESSURE fuel pump, and mount it as LOW and as CLOSE to the gas tank as possible...(this is what needs to be done...to make modern "high vapor pressure" fuels work properly in ANY pre-fuel injection car with the typical "diaphagm-type" fuel pump.

Oh, yes....get the head-light reflectors "re-silvered" by any of the people who do that service ( see HEMMINGS ) new headlight wiring.....6 volt quartz/halogen headlight bulbs are available...nice to be able to see where you are going at night.

Once you deal with the limitations of the technology of that era, you should have a reliable, fun car....at the risk of repeating myself, I think we Americans can be proud of ANY American product of that era...i dont think you could go wrong no matter what make of car you choose to play with.

( just dont forget....soon as you get it...start screaming the word "classic" at it..over and over again...as loud as you can....that will immediately improve its performance...and make people think you are hot horse pucky...! )

( ha ha )......!

Good luck

Pete Hartmann

[Guest]

Listen, I drove a '27 Buick practically every day for a dozen years and to answer peterg's question the brakes were quite adequate, provided you forgot about hydraulic brakes and got accustomed to them, with the type of linings I used the 4 wheel external contracting bands did a great job if you knew how and when to apply them. The only real trouble the car gave me was sheared axle keys, a weakness with some semi-floating axles and this only happened when I let the clutch out too fast with too high RPM. Sure, I had to give it a ring job, reseat the valves and shim the bearings a couple of times but that car never let me down plus it kept up well with "modern" traffic including highway runs at 60 and below, it could go faster but I wanted it to last!

But this is nothing, fellow who lives near me drove a 1911 Cadillac 30 as his daily driver for much longer than me, now drives a '20 Buick roadster the same way!

[critterpainter]

RE: the post about an electric fuel pump to replace the mechanical pump...99% of 20's cars used vacumn tank fuel systems....which work very well. Have one on my 30 Dodge and it has Never given me a minutes problem. The last owner of the car had installed an electric pump and removed the vacuumn tank....I couldn't keep the car running...the (^%^&%(^ electric pump could not stand to sit for 4 weeks without use.

Get a model A ford....make sure the brakes are up to snuff (usually folks just reline them and don't adjust them correctly) and enjoy....if you have a problem...everyone will have the parts

Bill

[Guest]

Peter,

Take a look at the 1928-29 Dodge Brothers Victory Sixes. They have factory Wagner 4-wheel hydraulics, seven main bearing with full pressure, automatic spark advance. The body structure is all steel. You might need to think about an overdrive or a bit more rear axle gear depending on where you drive, however,they will cruise 55 in stock trim. They are great reliable cars and very attractive to boot. Also they are cheap. I think you could find a nice sedan for less than 10k.

ASW

[Ed Miller]

Peter, My 1932 Cadillac is a little too modern for this thread. Having said that, I have had replaced the babbitt connecting rod bearings with inserts, added a 1932 Borg Warner overdrive and replaced the cast iron pistons with aluminum (the only available) in my 1932 Cadillac. I drive the Cadillac at least three times each week but I still have no intention of driving 75 MPH on the highway. My touring speeed will probably be about 60 to 65 MPH when the Work is done in a few weeks. I want to see if I can make it to may next birthday.

[Guest Skyking]

Peter g, you must live in Mayberry..........

[Peter Gariepy]

SW of Mayberry. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest]

Post deleted by 58rebelsport

[Guest Skyking]

Peter, check 58rebelsport out..........The guy calls his car a CLASSIC.

[Guest]

Post deleted by 58rebelsport

[Guest]

I drive the 1912 KisselKar you see at left on a regular basis, 3-4 times a week, 1200-1500 miles per year. I won't drive it on wet or sloppy streets, but had it on the road all winter last year, as long as the weather was cold enough to freeze up the muck. Try one of these puppies at 50 mph in minus 30 degrees to learn the true meaning of wind chill! Even with a period windshield, not shown, that's one breezy ride.

The drivetrain is stock (but well equipped for speed with 37" diameter tires and a 25% overdrive fourth gear) except for aluminum pistons. It cruises happily at 45-50 mph, but strains to reach 60 mph and 1650 rpm. Brakes are as good as you can expect for 2-wheel mechanicals ? I can lock up the rear wheels on dry pavement. One advantage of this car is the high seating position, which allows the driver to anticipate most situations well in advance.

Lighting is original 6-volt sidelights and acetylene headlamps. They are OK for well-lit city streets. The spotlight had no socket when I aquired it (had been set up for 110 vt rec room use) so I installed a 12 vt halogen snowmobile bulb and socket. Low beam is the usual, the high-beam switch actually powers up both high- and low-beam filaments. It makes for a very nice night driving light.

[ply33]

Peter,

I have been thinking about your question for about a week now. I will probably be stating the obvious.

1. Daily driving will cause wear and tear. For that reason a vehicle for which it is easy to get parts for will be more desirable than something that is rare.

2. My personal feeling is that automotive technology made huge strides nearly every year until the mid-1930s. For this reason, I would suggest one of the later cars that is still in your time frame.

As much as I think they are over priced and over appreciated, I have to admit that getting parts for a Ford is a lot easier than for nearly any other car of that era. Since the Model T is not, in my opinion, a car for everyday use in modern traffic I would suggest a Model A Ford.

You mention driving 3 to 4 times a week. Does that mean you are willing to have the car down for a week or two while a water pump is rebuilt, etc.? If you can have the car laid up occasionally while waiting for parts, then you have increased the number of brands you can select from.

I am not sure that hydraulic brakes are required: The big problem with mechanical brakes is that they don't stay equalized. If you are willing to turn your own wrench and keep them adjusted you should not have a big problem there. A bigger issue is the size of the brakes. Many cars of that era have wimpy brakes by modern standards. Generally the bigger, more expensive (when new) cars had better brakes than the entry level cars.

Since you will be driving at night, I suggest getting the reflectors properly redone and installing quartz-halogen bulbs.

[Peter Gariepy]

Definitely need something that has available parts. A Model A would certainly have parts available, not to mention that there remain mechanics who can still work on them. (i'm not much of a wrench turner)

I'd like to drive the car 3-4 times a week, but i'll keep my modern driver for the inevitable times when the car is in service.

I'd be willing to compromise and go with mechanical brakes as long as the car is safe. Are not hydralic conversions on Model A's common?

Night driving will be done occationally but generally it will be a day driver. Regardless, i'll upgrade the lights as needed to be safe.

Let me lay out one other bit of info - i'd like to keep the initial price of the car under $10k.

Peter

[Peter Gariepy]

Here are some Ebay Motors candidates:

To Rough? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/smile.gif" alt="" /> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871845382

Hot rod? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871287954

2 door - to small for a family of 5? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871504082

[Peter Gariepy]

Something like this intrigues me more:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871955437

[ply33]

I'll have to look at my limited collection of Chrysler information when I get home tonight.

First item: I was pretty sure that the four cylinder Chrysler 52 was rebadged in 1928 to be the Chrysler-Plymouth. The 1928 Plymouth hit the market in the summer of 1928, so maybe the Chrysler 52 was still being produced for early 1928.

Second item: From one of the photos, it looks like there are no brake drums on the front axle. I know that all Plymouths had four wheel hydraulic brakes. I believe that some of the rebadged Maxwells (low end Chryslers) in the 1920s had two wheel brakes but I thought that by the late 1920s, all Chryslers had four wheel brakes.

So, this car has my curiosity up. Time to check the books.

By the way, the location is given as Garden Grove (Southern California) and San Jose area (Bay Area). If the car is really in the San Jose area, I could probably take a look at it for you.

[Guest]

Having owned a '28 Chrysler, I can safely say that their brakes weren't all that great. First of all they were external contracting until '29. Secondly, the master cylinder was an odd size bore. That becomes a problem when looking for cups (impossible). I'm not sure the Chrysler on e-bay has juice brakes. Something to think about is this: Look at the width of the tires. That is to say, look at the area of tire touching the pavement. Not much tire touching the road. The best brakes in the world won't help when you start scooting.

I think someone else hit on something earlier. Look at the body construction. Until '29, Chryslers had "composite construction". Metal skin over a wooden frame. Seventy five year old wood may not stand the strains of that much driving for very long. Are you good at woodworking when that wood works itself loose? It will sooner or later. Chryslers had Fisher bodies until '29. So did G.M.cars. I agree with the poster who sugested a '27-'29 Dodge. Good brakes, all steel Budd body, good looks, dependable. "Nobody ever wore an old Dodge out, they just got tired of driving it."

[Guest]

Take my word for it, you do not want a 4 cyl Chrysler! A '31-'32 Plymouth 4 is totally different, fast, powerful,reliable, smooth {floating power don't you know} juice brakes and ridiculously easy to find parts for, far better and more modern in handling and conception than a Model A,in fact I'm thinking of buying a friend's PA for a daily driver that I rebuilt the engine on, look into them.

I saw those ebay offerings, the first one looks as though it may not run while the second with a pinto engine???? har,har, nearly sh*t myself laughing.

[Guest]

Forgot the most important thing of all with the PA's & PB's ALL STEEL BODIES!!!!!

[R W Burgess]

L I Stellite, I hate to say this and I know the rest of you guys will crucify me, but that "Pinto" motor and transmission will run forever and with a good quiet muffler, nobody will even know it's not original. You could drive that baby to the left coast ( East coast for PeterG) and back, and not even check the oil, much less the water. OK guys, Put up the "dukes", show me what you got! Wayne

[Peter Gariepy]

How about this?

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/6/6/36220066.htm

Or this:

http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/caddetail.html?/ad-cache/10/8/4/34965884.htm

or this!:

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/9/4/36083794.htm

[R W Burgess]

All right!! Peter. That Buick oughta do the trick. Sure looks nice. My buddy Earl, says you can't go wrong with a Buick. I think Earl even had a Buick bicycle as a kid! Wayne

[Guest]

The Buick is nice but has no sidemounts plus it has artillery wheels, 9,500.00 would be more like it. The Desoto looks good, as does the Plymouth, remember, there are plenty of cars out there so don't be in a hurry.

Hey, about the "reliable" pinto engine, did'ja figure in the cost of having the head milled when it warps??

[ply33]

PeterG,

If you don't mind going into the 1930s a little, then here are some things you might like to know about Plymouths:

1928 Model Q and 1929 Model U came equipped with a vacuum tank fuel system (with vacuum supplied from, of all places, the suction side of the oil pump). They also had no water pump, cooling is via thermo-syphon. No matter the size of the radiator, I would be a little wary of a thermo-syphon system in the Arizona summer. Fuel gauge on these early models is mechanical and located on the tank (so you have to stop the car and walk around to the rear to see how much gas you have). The engines did have full pressure lubrication (at least if the vacuum fuel tank is not acting up) and four wheel hydraulic brakes.

1930 Model 30-U introduced an AC mechanical fuel pump, a water pump and an electrical fuel gauge on the dash.

1931 PA introduced the famed "Floating Power" engine mount system. But basically the PA and 1932 PB have the same engine as the 30-U. Despite the changes in the cooling and fuel systems, the four cylinder engines were really warmed over Chrysler 52 engines which, itself, was basically an improved Maxwell engine. Even though the engine was a bit long in the tooth by 1931-32, it still performed pretty well. Last September I followed a 1931 PA down US 101 for about 300 miles with the average speed being about 50 and the max speed around 60. That was a car in stock trim with a 4.33:1 rear end.

All of the Plymouth fours are built lower to the ground than the Ford Model As they were marketed against and were generally larger too. They were sold as the "full size car" in the economy price bracket.

I personally would not go older than an 1930 30-U model for a daily driver. If for no other reason that I like to see how much gas I have.

The six came out in 1933. It was stroked in 1934. A full length water jacket added in 1935. Bored out with new bearings in 1941. Some other mods in the 1950s. But basically the same engine from 1933 through 1959 on cars (and into the 1970s for some industrial applications). Engine parts are pretty easy to get for all of the six cylinder engines. If you can stand a bit more of a rounded look, the 1934 is appealing because the PE and PF models came with an unequal A arm independent front suspension that is basically the same as found on cars from the 1940s and 1950s.

And, of course, you can look at my web site for more than you really ever wanted to know about the topic. (But less than I ought to have out there).

[56Roadmaster]

Peter,

That BUICK is nice looker I guess you are carrying a family? The artillery wheels are less work to clean!!! The Buick just has been a step ahead on everyone at least in sound engine design for a long time. As for insert bearings yes they can handle a higher load, but properly set and adjusted with a good grade of oil that gets changed as suggested, the poured babbit will keep right on a-going.

Buick supported their engines on the maximum number of main bearings too. If the Buick gives you any kind of major trouble you can BE SURE that it was INCORRECTLY REDONE or was beaten HARD.

I like the Ford A too but unless you had the engine updated i.e. balanced and pressure feed oil added you won't be able to get any long life at 50+ mph. I had a little coupe in high school that i refurbished it had an old engine an we kids used to push it hard 65mph but that resulted in reshimming my bearings ALOT (like a monthly thing) of course we were REALLY pushing it.

Final notes having worked on the supposed CLASSICs i.e. 31-33 custom imperial , Senior Packards etc. -- nice body and all but the engines are flat head, an inherently poor combustion chamber type, and the Packards have those dam odd ball cam followers that like to break if the valves stick.

The buick has a better combustion design, roller lifters (some) and a valve train that is basically still in use today in every major brand. And again parts are available, and to top it off GM WAS SO CONFIDENT IN BUICKS ENGINE DESIGN THEY WERE USED IN THE GMC TRUCKS.

lASTLY FOR THE PRICE OF THE SEDAN YOU MIGHT PAY NEARLY THAT FOR A MODEL A ANY HOW.

N'UFF SAID.