ADade

1918 E-4-34 Running After 54 (or so) Years

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Posted (edited)

I've been working for some time on my father-in-law's 1918 four cylinder two seater, and we've finally got it running reliably (at least it seems so).  Long hours have gone into getting the car mechanically back in shape that I just couldn't resist sharing our success.

 

We still have a few items to sort out before I can tour with the car:

-   Adjust brakes

-    Install new float in oil sump

-    Finalize a couple of electrical improvements

 

But before the leaves fall, I should be driving the car!  WHOO HOO!

 

Pictures below.  I tried to upload a video of the engine running (quite fun to watch with its exposed valve train), but it was too large.

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Edited by ADade (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, ADade said:

We still have a few items to sort out before I can tour with the car:

....

-    Install new float in oil sump

Nice nice car.

When you do that, look up and make sure you see what is in the 1st picture below and NOT the 2nd (same engine - 1918 E-4-35).

That silver ‘spot’ in the 2nd photo is a missing cotter pin. It will cost you $10,000.

They were not engineered to last 50 years.

If you wait to hear ‘noise’ or a ‘knock’ — the damage is already done at that point.

Ask me how I know.

(I wish there were a way to upload a video on this forum too. Technically, you could post a video to YouTube and make a YouTube link here - but I don’t do YouTube and wouldn’t wish it on you either.)

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1 hour ago, Ben Perfitt said:

Nice nice car.

When you do that, look up and make sure you see what is in the 1st picture below and NOT the 2nd (same engine - 1918 E-4-35).

 

 

 

He's only replacing the float in the oil pan. All he has to do is unscrew the oil gauge and pull the float out the side of the oil pan, the float comes out with it.

 

Hey ADade, the float is a cork from a wine bottle. Don't bother trying to fix the old cork. Buick never sold corks, there are no replacement corks in the parts book, no part number or anything...….they come from wine bottles. Get one at the liquor store. 

 

Really

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Replacing the float, yes.

Just look UP when pan is off.

Or don’t — and rebore-resleeve cyls later.

 

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1 hour ago, Ben Perfitt said:

 

Just look UP when pan is off.

 

 

 

 

You don't have to take the pan off to change the float.

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Posted (edited)

Well to give you the "rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say, I also want to replace the oil pan gasket, so I do need to take off the pan  It makes sense to inspect the wrist pin when the pan is off.  As to the float, I have a new one made of plastic, so I'll use that rather than a cork one.  It was designed for a Model A Ford, but should work just fine.  I used the same thing for the float in the fuel tank.

Edited by ADade (see edit history)
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Taking the pan off is a tried and true preventive action.  Pulling the pan you might find 10 pounds of sludge or nothing.  Cheap insurance.

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Alex,

That is a really sharp looking Buick.  One just does not see these cars with the Khaki tops very often.  From your photos the Four-Cylinder models are noticeably smaller than the Sixes.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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I love this little car, Terry -- and huge thanks to you and Larry Schramm for all your help getting it back on the road!

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