stakeside Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 I would like to know oil pressure at idle for the DA6. I am showing 10 to 20 psi. Is there an adjustment on the engine and how do you set it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Fill me in Please. My old cars are 30's and 40's vintage. What's a DA6 ? 10 to 20 is a pretty good spread. Is the engine hot or cold when you're getting these readings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 (edited) Anything above 15 psi at idle should be good. Reg is correct as far as I know. There should be an oil pressure relief valve on the generator/starter side of the engine. It should have an acorn shaped cap. Check to see if the valve is clean. Be certain to note how many revolutions you turn if you remove the valve. Be certain to be careful of putting the spring back in correctly if you remove it. Edited July 30, 2019 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 I don't know for the DA. The DD manual says at normal driving speeds it should be 25-30 psi with a warm engine and oil. They don't give an idle pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 16 hours ago, Reg Evans said: Fill me in Please. My old cars are 30's and 40's vintage. What's a DA6 ? 10 to 20 is a pretty good spread. Is the engine hot or cold when you're getting these readings? Used in Dodge Bros trucks and cars from 1928 to 1930. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Thanks for your comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 The pressure relief valve is the round, protrusion item down by the oil pan just aft of the oil filler tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 I was always to understand it was about volume more so then pressure. Mid 20's Franklins dump a ton of oil on the timing chain and important parts but really shows low pressure because of the amount poured into the timing gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 12 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said: I was always to understand it was about volume more so then pressure. Mid 20's Franklins dump a ton of oil on the timing chain and important parts but really shows low pressure because of the amount poured into the timing gear. Yes and no, what started out as a splash lubrication system eventually morphed into a pressure lubrication system as engine revs and compression units increased, the crankshaft loads required more pressure as engines developed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 I am getting excessive oil flow out of rear engine seal. I replaced the rear felt seal but did not stop the flow. I understand some flow can be expected. Possible reasons: 1) excessive rear main bearing wear. 2) oil pressure is to high resulting in to excessive oil flow 3) others??? I could increase the diameter of the overflow tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 While on this subject, can anyone advise quantity of oil the DA engine holds (with/without filter). Cannot see in any of the info I have what this should be. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 The Model DD is similar and my book shows that it takes 1 1/2 gallons (5.678 liters) of oil. More than likely without a filter as they were an accessory at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 I think some old guy told me once. Rule of thumb. 10 lbs. per thousand revs. I have had many engines that had very little pressure showing at idle hot. As long as it increases with revs I am good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 Look in your owner's manual for the amount of oil. If your engine is full of sludge you don't want to put that amount in anyway. You have a dip stick which shows when it is full. Do not overfill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 3 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said: Do not overfill. Whipped oil is a very poor lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 Thanks for replies on oil quantity. I could not find any quantity listed in the owners manual and from past experiences I am reluctant to trust dip stick alone. Who knows that it is the correct dip stick for that engine or has not been modified. I want to fill an engine that has been reconditioned so there is no sludge. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 My first edition DA manual on page 80 says 1 1/2 gallons US, six quarts which would be different in litres. I really would like to compare export manuals to the US versions. I know there has to be differences, like metric measurement and right hand drive pictures. Would you scan your manual and email it to me? I am trying to get a complete set of manuals for the DB club. I just scanned 1100 pages of service bulletins which will soon be posted on the DBC website. In it was a complete list of all owners manuals from 1929 to 1937 with edition numbers, both car and truck. BUT it was only for US models. The export sales were very important to DB, especially in the early years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Thanks, I missed it. Looked a number of times, too. Wife would say I should have had a girls look!! The only manual I have is the copy I got from the Chrysler Historical collection (USA) around 45 years ago so I would think it is the same as the one you have, it is certainly left hand drive. I have never seen an "Export" or RHD version and do not know if they exist or not, although DA manuals are pretty rare over here anyway. I have probably only seen a couple in that time. Because of the relatively low numbers exported to Australia, most makes just used the USA version, although I cannot say if Dodge did so. For example, I have an owners manual for a 1936 DeSoto (I have the car as well) and am pretty sure it is the manual that came with the car from new and it is a Richards (Australian) bodied car as well. Again, thanks for putting me straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 HMMM. That makes me wonder too if there were manuals for export. I would think there should have been, but not seen any. Our parts books show left and right hand parts, such as steering boxes. I would have guessed there were owners manuals too, because of the different peddle arrangement, etc. Thanks for the response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 I have original instruction books for DD and DC; both must have come to NZ with a car. They are both LHD = the aerial view lubrication chart is of a LHD chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Thank you for that information. In the stuff I just scanned I also found a note that starting in 1924 they quit supplying owners manuals with all cars. They were available for $.50 from the dealers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 On 7/30/2019 at 4:13 PM, Reg Evans said: Fill me in Please. My old cars are 30's and 40's vintage. What's a DA6 ? 10 to 20 is a pretty good spread. Is the engine hot or cold when you're getting these readings? These were the first 6 cylinder engines used used by Dodge Bros. They can be found in late GRAHAM Bros trucks also. Mine is in my Dodge Bros Series “E” 3/4 ton truck. Chronically first came the Standard 6 than the Victory 6 than the DA 6. I recall they were modeled after the Continental 6. Production started in 1927 and continued to 30’s. Most obvious feature is the head mounted distributor and updraft carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 Thanks for comments but still would like to know if there is an adjustment for oil pressure and proper method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 Keiser31 IDed the pressure relief valve. There is a spring inside. If you make it longer it has more pressure to open the valve. You will have to experiment on how far to stretch it. Don't know what pressure you are trying to achieve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 My fresh rebuild is showing 70 psi at road speed and I will have to set it lower. High pressure does cause excessive oil flow from rear bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 There is a slotted screw. Which direction to turn is the question ? Would 45psi at road speed be Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 From the manual. I think my pressure is too high also, but I have not touched anything yet, as I want to take the car on a decent run to make sure it is properly warmed up. Can't do that yet as it is not registered for road use. I am also unsure of the accuracy of the standard gauge, so will use a suitable accurate one when I adjust it. Will be interested how you get on. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 20, 2021 Author Share Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) 16 hours ago, Bullfrog_eng said: From the manual. I think my pressure is too high also, but I have not touched anything yet, as I want to take the car on a decent run to make sure it is properly warmed up. Can't do that yet as it is not registered for road use. I am also unsure of the accuracy of the standard gauge, so will use a suitable accurate one when I adjust it. Will be interested how you get on. John Thanks John for information. My DA6 truck manual did not have this information. This is a rebuild engine and the shop did not set the valve. I will loosen 1/2 turn and check pressure . Sherm here. Edited May 20, 2021 by stakeside E (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 21, 2021 Author Share Posted May 21, 2021 Still looking for reason of high oil pressure. I did install another oil pressure gauge and it agreed with other gauge. I backed off screw 2 turns and the pressure has not decreased. Is it possible the plunger may be stuck. If so, how do I verify if it is struck and would like to know if the entire relief valve can be removed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 Sherman , just screw whole unit right out , every easy . Make sure during adjustment your turning the inner plug for your adjustment not whole unit . the inner thread plug has the spring ahead of it and plunger ( that some find stuck ahead of that) . That inner pug is what pin keeps from moving . Outter piece is just tighten in . A gasket for acorn cap will be needed . I used 1/16" cork ,paper leaked . Make note of plug depth to get close on reassembly . of coarse yours is quite off . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 21, 2021 Author Share Posted May 21, 2021 Found the problem. Mechanic left screw inside the valve. The screw was used to assure a high pressure when engine was pre-oiled. I still will recommend him as a rebuilder. He also did my Babbit bearings. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 22, 2021 Author Share Posted May 22, 2021 Ok got decide which to believe, either the gauge that reads 40psi at the engine or the original instrument gauge reads 22psi at road speed.. O by the way ! All oil drips at rear engine are gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 The oil pressure will drop as it warms . Do they match at idle and rev sitting . Should be 30 -35 at 35 mph on pedal . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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