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1938 Plymouth Sedan


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46 minutes ago, ply33 said:

Pretty tight clearance between the crank pulley and the frame/radiator mount. How will you be able to replace the fan belt when needed?

It will slide back a little more when bolted down. Enough clearance to change a fan belt. I have replaced one on this engine in this car before the rebuild. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Keith, 

         I've been really enjoying your Youtube videos and really like your cars. I have a '36 Dodge sedan that I'm trying to put back together for the last 30 years! It's original color is very close to the color of your Chrysler, but couldn't find anyone that could match it! I have a good friend who had a '37 Chrysler Imperial that I got to drive, wonderful cars! Hope you can get your '38 on the rode soon  and keep the vids coming!

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My 237 equipped P6 is on the road tonight! She’s got more torque than the 226 engine. And smooth? Oh man. Nice and smooth power delivery and no engine vibration. This is the smoothest Mopar flathead 6 I’ve ever driven.  This 237 in my P6, I think its going to be a very nice little cruising machine!

 

 

7FF6DEF6-02BB-4AD5-B14D-EC54216E8296.jpeg

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It was my first cruise of 2022 today, with the new engine. It was fantastic. The engine is running strong and making very good torque. The 237 ci 25" engine with a 3 speed tranny, 4.11 rear end is a very nice little package! It makes a great town car. I won't see a lot of hi-way miles. If it were, an OD would be a great addition. I'm sure the additional torque would push it though higher speed wind resistance quite well.

 

 

38 Feb 2022.jpeg

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I had every expansion plug replaced! I paid the machine shop to do it, thinking they'd be better at this task than me. Silly me.

 

I was fortunate. I don't think there was any damage. I shut it down pretty quick.  Fingers crossed. I will dump the oil and replace it right away.

A new expansion plug will be installed.  

 

Stay tuned for the next episode of Vintage Car Drama...."Can he fix it himself roadside and make it back home?"

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That sucks, sorry to hear that happened. Back when I was about 16 yrs. old, one of my buddies stopped by for a visit in his 53 Plymouth with a flathead 6. He had a bad coolant leak from a rusty frost plug. My dad came out, explained what was wrong and got a round piece of wood (branch, dowel or something), whittled the end down with his pocket knife until it was the right size and tapped it into the frost plug hole in the block with a hammer. It stopped the leak and dad told my buddy to get it fixed as soon as he could. Of course he never did and he when he sold the old Cranbrook a year or two later it still had that piece of wood sticking out the side of the block. Something like this might work in an emergency and could get you back home. 

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On 2/28/2022 at 2:11 AM, keithb7 said:

@Jeff Perkins / Mn, yes the old saying is ringing in my ears a little.

If you want something done right, do it yourself. I tossed the rope of shame away yesterday and rolled the dice.

 

 

 

I totally agree. When your doing the job the care factor is extreme. And if it fails you know who to blame. I’m sorting a Buick now where I think in some areas the care factor was zero. But at least I know it will be redone to the best I can do it. Good thing about these old girls is that the plug was easy enough to get to and will be an easy fix with a new one with some sealer to make sure. Hopefully all the gremlins will be sorted soon. Keep driving it!

Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

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  • 5 months later...

The rebuilt engine turned over 700 miles on the odometer this morning. The car is fantastic. Running great. Getting a little hot on sweltering summer days though. It seems my upgrade to 237 is a bit more than the current rad can handle. Its not the stock as my rad was moved forward 2-3 inches to accommodate the 25 “ length block upgrade. My cooling system is spotless and in top notch condition. Just the slightly smaller rad the culprit I assume. I  going to install a 6V electric pusher fan to assist on the dog days of summer. 
 

Here we are out for a Sunday drive this morning. 
 

07C116C9-8E0D-4EC0-A06E-BC0F5C395A77.jpeg
 

A1808782-EC43-493E-8906-6C616A45E3B2.jpeg

Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
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It it getting hot while the car is moving slow or fast? If slow, it will probably help. It will probably also make things worse at speed. At speed the trouble could be just air leakage around the core.

 

Any air that comes through the grille should go through the core, and not have a way to bypass directly to the engine compartment. I don't know how Chrysler handled that (some makes had more than enough cooling and didn't bother I guess). A pathway around the core stalls airflow through the core. It is not obvious why it should, but it does. My 1936 Pontiac has a couple of shields that trap air that comes through the grille. Most other 1936 Pontiacs I have seen for sale seem to be missing those. There is a seal up at the top of the core that is rotten and mostly missing that I will replace since the core is out right now. That still leaves 2 holes at the bottom corners of the core that are an air leak. If the factory had something there, I am not seeing the remains. I will probably plug them with something.

 

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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The heat starts to rise in low speed applications. Stop and go street lights spaced a city block apart. Once cruising at 20-30 mph temp drops to 170.  The steep hill home is my main concern. Its about 2.5 miles up. Steep and winding. I don’t lug the engine. I can’t get a run at, and sling-shot this hill. I do get my speed up briefly then it’s a long climb. Throttle down, the fuel burnt is making plenty of BTU’s.  Land speed is down to about a steady 30 mph. Throttle down hard.  On warm days, by the time I arrive in my driveway the gauge is just touching 200F.  On hot days it’s creeping just over 212F. 
 

I have considered my options. There is no room for an electric engine-side, suck fan only, and adding a shroud.  The waterpump shaft is in the way.  I agree wasted air is happening as the fan is not super close to the rad. The car utilizes a 14” fan. Trying to move rad and fan closer together, the fan will contact the rad at the bottom upon engine dynamic braking. The motor mounts flex enough to allow fan contact. I found this out the hard way when I installed a 16” spare old Mopar fan that I own. $200 rad repair later…

 

The block is spotless. Hot-tanked at rebuild. Like new, very clean brass water distribution tube. New waterpump. New re-cored rad. Thermostat removed for testing. New clear pathway rad hoses. 7 psi rad cap. Head super clean. By-pass lines clean as new. 
 

I am pretty sure the rad cooling capacity is the system’s limiting factor here. It’s a newly re-cored rad and provides the best flow it can deliver. Straight, clean new fins are efficient.   I’ve thought about custom fabbing a shroud. I am not versed in the sheet metal  trade. I’m not skilled to make one. I may try. For a $100 investment the 6V push fan seems like a logical test to try next. Failing that, I’ll try a shroud. 

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On 8/29/2022 at 7:02 AM, keithb7 said:

.   I’ve thought about custom fabbing a shroud. I am not versed in the sheet metal  trade. I’m not skilled to make one. I may try. For a $100 investment the 6V push fan seems like a logical test to try next. Failing that, I’ll try a shroud. 

Hi Keith,

Is it possible to mock up a temporary shroud using cardboard or thin timber or similar held together with masking tape? Then if this works a sheet metal version could then be made, perhaps in sections screwed or bolted together.

 

Probably an easier and cheaper option and may look more authentic than an electric fan.

 

Keep us posted

cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

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