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1938 Plymouth Sedan


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  • 5 weeks later...

Engine block was sent to machine shop. It was boiled and crack checked. Passed! Good to go. Now I am awaiting engine parts to arrive. I ordered everything from Vintage Power Wagons. 
 

While I am layed up waiting for engine parts, I took the rad nose cone off. I also pulled my Gemmer steering gearbox for overhaul. Parts for it have also been ordered. New bearings, seals, shims, gaskets. 
 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

After some research I was able to determine that there was good chance that the Gemmer steerting gearbox in my 38 Plymouth, would contain the same parts used in a same period Ford. 

The housings and design of the Ford and Plymouth Gemmer steering gearboxes are likely different, however I estimated, "Why would the same company redesign all the internal wearing parts?" 

Indeed they did not redesign all the internal parts. I ordered my Plymouth steering gears parts from an old Ford cars parts business. The bearings are Timken so good quality. The company I bought from had good selection and photos for every part. Between my Hollander Interchange and my 6th edition Motors manual, plus having my gear box apart, I was able to nail it all down. I rolled the dice and ordered the parts. They arrived here in Canada, shipped from California, in only 2 days. The pricing was better than anything I'd seen on Ebay. Or any of the Mopar suppliers. I feel like I got good quality parts, great selection, good prices, and reasonable freight costs.  Do your homework folks. Check the parts out here:  https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/selecttitle.php?c=1&s=7&g=64

 

Comparing the new parts that arrived, I think I have a perfect fit! 


 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
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38 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

After some research I was able to determine that there was good chance that the Gemmer steerting gearbox in my 38 Plymouth, would contain the same parts used in a same period Ford. 

The housings and design of the Ford and Plymouth Gemmer steering gearboxes are likely different, however I estimated, "Why would the same company redesign all the internal wearing parts?" 

Indeed they did not redesign all the internal parts. I ordered my Plymouth steering gears parts from an old Ford cars parts business. The bearings are Timken so good quality. The company I bought from had good selection and photos for every part. Between my Hollander Interchange and my 6th edition Motors manual, plus having my gear box apart, I was able to nail it all down. I rolled the dice and ordered the parts. They arrived here in Canada, shipped from California, in only 2 days. The pricing was better than anything I'd seen on Ebay. Or any of the Mopar suppliers. I feel like I got good quality parts, great selection, good prices, and reasonable freight costs.  Do your homework folks. Check the parts out here:  https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/selecttitle.php?c=1&s=7&g=64

 

Comparing the new parts that arrived, I think I have a perfect fit! 


 

 

 

 

 

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Smart shopping Keith. I have done the same in the past. 
I needed a gas gauge float for my 1948 Packard, $23 in the catalog. I found in an interchange manual the dimensionally identical float (brass) for an early Mustang. $5! Always good to save $$ when you can so you can spend them when you want.

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Today I put some quality time into the rad nose cone. Grinding and drilling out very rusty, seized 83 year old hardware. Got it all out! 
 

Using a hammer and dolly I beat old damage straight again. It should be a lot easier to reinstall hopefully. 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well its Feb 25 today. As she lays in my garage, can be seen in the pic below. I’m still waiting for engine rebuild parts to arrive. I won’t take my block to the machine shop until I have all of my needed rebuild parts. Parts all shipped today. Hopefully within 2-3 weeks I be taking the block, crank and head to the machine shop. 
 

Its been a fairly long boring winter waiting for parts. I’ve been reluctant to tear more things apart while I wait for my engine parts. I don’t want to end up with a large pile of metal that needs 6 plus months of reassembly. 
 

I’ve thought about all the cosmetic things  I could be doing while the engine is out. Really doll the engine compartment up. I could. Yet something picks at my conscience about the original old car look. Looking like it has been driven daily for 80 plus years. Like it may have come just from the farm. I don’t know why, but there’s something oddly attractive about the car’s worn look to me. Building a reliable daily driver that looks worn and tired is attractive to me too. 
 

We shall make progress soon. I am getting excited for the new 237 ci Desoto power plant. 3 7/16” bore x 4 ¼” stroke. 
 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Today I rounded up some steel and hardware. I went to see my hobby-machinist friend. We tag-teamed a bit to build this con-rod vise. It should allow me to install, torque and crush the rod bearings. Then measure bearing to crank journal clearances. Fairly accurately I think. Better than plasti-gauge I think?
 

It was a fun project. Bonus working with my buddy too. 
 

All for the ‘38!
 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I went back to the machine shop this week....A guy really has to be patient these days it seems. All the work I requested has been done except turning the mains down .010. That will be done by day's end today. I am to pick up my block and related parts this evening. I am ambitious to start putting this engine back together.  I look forward to the upcoming work I will do. 

 

 

 

 

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Keith,

I used a chart that was in one of the engine blueprinting books I once had. It identified what you need to measure and provided a place to record your measurements, before you do the final assembly. This included ring gaps, bearing crush, thermal contact, crankshaft thrust and other things which we often ignore or take for granted that they are correct. 
 

Just because it has been in a machine shop, never assume they machined it correctly. ALWAYS check and recheck what they have done, the sizes they have machined to etc. They do get it wrong sometimes, ask me how I know. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

Reassembling an engine properly takes a lot of time to assemble, measure, check and adjust to obtain the proper clearances and tolerances. Near enough is not really good enough, it must be within the specifications. 
 

The extra time you take to do this will make for a smoother running, quiet and more powerful engine. Checking and filing ring gaps, checking piston clearances and selecting for best fit all takes time but we’ll worth the effort.

 

In the end, that is what you are doing, “blueprinting” the engine back to factory specifications.

 

Enjoy the journey! Just my two bobs worth.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi folks, there is no crack in the main bearing. Just a mark from the dial indicator used to check specs.

 

I have all the assembly parts here staged and ready to go. All machining work done.  I have not started reassembly yet. Perhaps I should start a new thread on engine reassembly from scratch, for the beginner. Then I will pick up on everyone's helpful comments. It's been 35 years since I last rebuilt a car engine. I reassembled the first couple of engines I rebuilt somewhat correctly. They ran well and made good power. Longevity? I can't say. I sold them off a few years later.

 

Time is hard to come by right now, to reassemble this engine. I am working diligently on my newly acquired 1938 Chrysler Coupe. I have been working out all the little gremlins. Getting it sorted and in a fine state of tune. I wait all winter for good driving weather. We're in the peak of great weather now.  I want to enjoy driving my 38 Chrysler, and attend car events right now. I'm quite busy . The engine reassembly will have to wait. I will probably poke away at it a little here and there. The majority of work to be done over the coming winter months. 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

We’ll fall is here. I am back at it. 
I hope to have a nice new running 237ci in my ‘38 Ply sedan by spring. 

Tappets and cam are in. I dropped the crank in tonight. Feeling good about it too. Very satisfying. 
 

I Mic’d mains and rods. Seem perfect. Ring gap well within spec. Measured bore, taper and out of round. Good. 1  valve guide was too high. 1 valve would not lap-in. Dropped down the one  guide. Hand lapped all valves.  Oil gallery port parts sealed up. Oil Pressure valve and spring in. 
 

Off to grab some plasti-gage now to check main bearing clearances.  
 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

All rods and pistons are in. That was fun. I had no trouble. I offset the top 2 compression ring gaps 180 degrees apart.  Oil scraper band upper & lower rings too. 
Plenty of engine assembly lube used. No tight spots felt as the crank turns nice and smooth.  A major step completed. 

Crank, & bearings, cam, rods, pistons, timing chain, are all in. All valves lapped and cold set. 
 

It was pretty much exactly a year ago that I began exploring my options for this engine. Measuring things to decide how far I’d go into it.  I probably went too far, spending the farm on it. All new parts and machining.  However the education and experience so far has been awesome. 
 

 

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4 hours ago, keithb7 said:

 I probably went too far, spending the farm on it. All new parts and machining. 

You won't regret it, nothing more fun that a car that runs good and always starts easy. You'll get many miles out of that rebuilt engine before you ever have to open it up again. 

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14 hours ago, keithb7 said:

  I probably went too far, spending the farm on it. All new parts and machining.  However the education and experience so far has been awesome. 


Keith,  you will be rewarded for you efforts when the Plymouth is back on the road…highlighted by the big grin on your face!

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More progress this week.  I had made a video, however I mis-interpreted the orientation of the snap ring installation at the piston pin.

Going back in! Better now than after a failure.  Took the video down to edit it. Correct it for anyone who references it in the future.

 

Edited video is back up! I think I got things right this time!

 


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Warmish is relative to what one climatizes to. -10C or above is a warm-ish day around here in winter.  I will not attempt to install this engine until we hit those temps. Fingers and toes don't handle the cold very well any more. They ache like someone smashed them with a hammer.

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-8F ambient temp here today. Colder tonight. Colder yet factoring in the wind chill. 
 

Our daily drivers need work and routine maintenance. Sorry girl, you’re spending a few days out of the garage. I need a warm garage this week!

 

No engine in it so block anti-freeze is not a concern at this time! 😀

 

 

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