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49 Roadmaster Convertible on eBay...

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Hagerty #4 condition shows $17,800, and the one on ebay shows substantial surface rust, poor old paint job, leaky Dynaflow, and what "looks" like a naugahyde interior-

just my opinion, 

but still one I'd like to drive

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25 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:

Hagerty #4 condition shows $17,800, and the one on ebay shows substantial surface rust, poor old paint job, leaky Dynaflow, and what "looks" like a naugahyde interior-

just my opinion, 

but still one I'd like to drive

I don't know the value of these well but that seems cheap for the one on Ebay.  But I guess it wasn't a bargain or it probably would have sold.

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All true...

 

the paint doesn’t bother me as long as the body is solid.  I don’t know enough about the interior to be able to tell what’s right.

 

A 49 Roadmaster convertible is definitely on my list, though.

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Per Ebay, car is in Oklahoma, but owner is in Nevada?

He corresponded that he would absolutely not consider less than his stated opening bid amount (despite the obvious, and some not obvious work it will need)

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On 7/21/2019 at 9:46 PM, Marty Roth said:

Per Ebay, car is in Oklahoma, but owner is in Nevada?

He corresponded that he would absolutely not consider less than his stated opening bid amount (despite the obvious, and some not obvious work it will need)

 

He later responded "make an offer",

I have not done so

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On ‎7‎/‎21‎/‎2019 at 7:09 PM, Marty Roth said:

Hagerty #4 condition shows $17,800, and the one on ebay shows substantial surface rust, poor old paint job, leaky Dynaflow, and what "looks" like a naugahyde interior-

just my opinion, 

but still one I'd like to drive

Agree, but still find it interesting how the market has fallen. This is a post war Buick Roadmaster convertible and did not sell for $25K.  No bids, no interest. 

 

Body appears solid and even with the rare "hyde of the nauga" as my brother used to say, that interior needs nothing for awhile.  Adam would whip that body and paint into shape.   If no one wants to bid $25,000, OK, offer him $20,000. 

Edited by B Jake Moran (see edit history)

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Hello,  Car will be arriving early next week, will be nice fit in our collection  of Buicks, 1948 Roadmaster conv. 1947 Buick Super Woody Wagon, and 1953 Buick Woody Wagon which we bought off the original owners and is a factory 3 speed

Edited by RLS_JR (see edit history)
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RLSW_JR,

 

Congratulations - it looks to be a really decent car, deserving to have those few issues addressed.

The "Rainman" vibe is really neat,

Sorry it couldn't have been mine...

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Looks to us like an older aging restoration via the standards of most likely the 80's. Underbody and frame just too nice and clean for this old lady.  Also,  have never seen a dash of the late forties or for that matter early 50's painted the same primary color as the body if the body color was white or yellow.  It would be hard to see through the reflections off the dash / windshield therefore for safety sakes most likely not factory but I could be wrong as that has been known to happen. Someone has already taken the engine out and detailed it as well.   Here are a few photos for posterity of this $ 22,000 to $ 25,000 convertible that recently sold not at this auction but afterwards.  7 years ago this car would of most likely sold for double this even with the passenger fender paint condition.  btw:  if this is lacquer the repaint in various areas is a simple task.  Lacquer melts into the existing paint and you have to color sand the coats anyways bugs, drips or what have you.  Last few coats thin out 100 to 150 percent and blend in.  Easiest paint to repair.  I see know time consuming Arts n Crafts projects in this car ... Just drive it and stun the masses

 

308687700_49RMConvertible-6.thumb.jpg.64ff5defdad21aa88758774a86614ad4.jpg

210690413_49RMConvertible-23.thumb.jpg.97b4c73f11eb727dbc49989636360f77.jpg998826229_49RMConvertible-24.thumb.jpg.b842f5d8f1f17505de5a641efe940f62.jpg1908555643_49RMConvertible-1.thumb.jpg.5adb6ab79c3ec18cae2a357f6720a034.jpg675426325_49RMConvertible-2.thumb.jpg.b9fb8cc99a0bfe73a9af070e84337099.jpg722684795_49RMConvertible-4.thumb.jpg.09be5e6400ce87c2597464b469d04153.jpg929288274_49RMConvertible-7.thumb.jpg.f02b9fc818f479ec63ba1dbee194265b.jpg1975627537_49RMConvertible-11.thumb.jpg.02056d56f4e89e8bcb483f75b14f3ff4.jpg370814024_49RMConvertible-17.thumb.jpg.930f5300dd6ff828bcac4da20a86f9a5.jpg1451692591_49RMConvertible-20.thumb.jpg.fb320ee5a884cf3626546c2e85308152.jpg

 

 

 

 

49 RM Convertible -3.jpg

49 RM Convertible -5.jpg

49 RM Convertible -16.jpg

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The car arrived over the weekend, alot better car than I expected, will post pictures in a few days.

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Great it will be good to look them over.  Regarding the paint on the passenger's front fender.  It definitely looks like lacquer and would be an easy fix just a full days prep and to get by quickly just tape off the upper fender stainless trim as shown in the photo and paper off the surrounding areas. Wash the area well with Dove dish detergent, Wax and Grease removal applied/wiped off, 220 the surface, lacquer prime out the area and let it set for 2-weeks, wet sand 400, Dove detergent wash, Grease & Wax rub down, tack rag the surface, then lacquer paint it in shifts of 2 coats at a time leaving about 1 to 2 weeks between coats and totally prevents all those stories you hear about lacquer paint jobs being bad due to later dye back/cracking/shrinkage problems etc.  Lacquer paint is not the problem it was because it was applied wrong.  If you hammer on lacquer paint coats all in one session then it will bite you trapping all the solvent thinners between coats and not allowing them to evaporate ) So then lightly hit areas with 400, blow off surface, tack rag then apply another 2 coats and repeat the same process and set time till you have 10 coats applied ( 5 separate painting sessions  as this will give you paint thickness needed to color sand later without sanding to primer ), then color sand, buff out. Then wait about 2 months leaving the car in the sun for the last 2 weeks with a cover over it, then wax the car.   You can do all the painting outside if you have to on a low to no wind day like in the early morning hours.  The biggest time consumer will be to match the color to the existing paint.  TCP can do that for you and do a pretty good job of it if you have a part you can send them with the existing paint on it like a headlight rim or such.  They can also sell you separate tints that goes into the paint if you need to tweak it onsite.  Just have them create a match formula so you can have them easily repeat the process if more paint is needed later on.  

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           Geez -- I thought I was the only diehard still using lacquer, dating back to the days when all I had was a shade tree and a fly sprayer.  Just wanted to add that if it is necessary to shoot outdoors, be sure to do so in a shaded area out of direct sunlight (preferably early in the a.m. when wind is less likely to strike).  Direct sun hitting new lacquer is likely to cause excessively rapid gassing-off, resulting "solvent popping" as well as the other ills often attributed to lacquer.

 

           By the way, one of the "pluses" of lacquer is that it is fairly idiot-proof.  If you fuzz it, drool it, orange-peel it, etc., then a little crosscut blocking with wet 1500-2000 paper (using one of those thin little flexible rubber rectangles and a little dish soap) will soon have things looking as if you knew what you were doing.  

  

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1 hour ago, Buickborn said:

           Geez -- I thought I was the only diehard still using lacquer, dating back to the days when all I had was a shade tree and a fly sprayer.

  

 

I plan to have my convertible painted in lacquer.  I have NOS chrome for it, so I want to match the authentic look with lacquer as original.

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BornB & Lance:  Yes lacquer is soooo sexy and nice to spray out especially if you have your chops down with single stage urethanes .   bc/cc jobs are the air headed street hooker looker of paint jobs ... all shine and no depth.  Single stage urethanes however can be manipulated to look like true lacquer but minus the intense hue and depth but very close proximity. Just use a blending agent with the single stage urethanes and reduce heavily on the last 3 coats.  Drips and runs can be cut out with a razor blade, sanded then spot painted.  Clear coats are only as good as the depth of the clear coat.  Bite into the base coat and you pay. 

Edited by buick man (see edit history)

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