Where to mount kill switch ? -'51 Super

[Kestrel]

I've  put off installing a kill switch but after reading other posts, I decided to go for it before something bad happens. Anyone out there have any suggested locations ? I'm thinking of making up a bracket for the switch that would bolt up under the battery tray, then make an in-line connection into the positive side cable where the red arrows show.

I found a decent rated (100A continuous/ 1000A intermittent) switch I used on my 6v '32 Chevy. Thanks !

 

[SpecialEducation]

What is the goal for this kill switch?  Theft protection?  Stuck relay?

 

There's no need to interrupt the high current side if all you want to do is disable the starter.  I have had starter stuck on before, so I do understand the desire to kill the flow of juice quickly...

[61polara]

Don't tighten the negative terminal to the battery.  Put it on and give it a twist to tighten it.  It will work fine.  When you stop or store the car, give it a twist and pull it off and lay it on top of the battery away from the post.

[Kestrel]

The idea was to prevent an accidental electrical fire during storage for either short or long term. The wiring is mostly original and there are some circuits that are hot all the time. Until I can upgrade the harness, my thinking was a switch was easier than keeping a wrench nearby to constantly disconnect the terminal. Also, while working on the car, I'd be inclined to use it more.

 

So far, I've been using 61polara's method described above.

 

I don't worry about theft protection.  The pros would probably bring their own unmarked trailer. 

 

[JohnD1956]

It is more common to install the kill switch on the negative terminal.  But it sounds like you are interested in hiding the kill switch?  That is not something I'd recommend.  I think you want it readily accessible,  regardless of how it looks. 

[Frank DuVal]

I do like 61 Polara, just leave the nut on the negative terminal slightly loose to where I can rotate the negative terminal off the post. Been doing this for lets see now, since 1970! no problems.

 

Keep the terminals clean and they will lock on just fine because they are tapered. I just do the negative terminal, as the positive terminal sometimes gets corroded quicker (turns dark).

 

I like being able to remove the battery from the circuit without tools!👍 

 

OK, I can not do this with most of the GM side terminals, but some I can!

[JohnD1956]

Tight terminals and no tools to disconnect. No one can see it while driving. No one ever commented on it while showing. But a slightly loose negative terminal is what it says it is and does work. 

[Kestrel]

Thanks John. I had one of those on my Chevy but it fell apart after a few years. Maybe it was a cheap knockoff. I'm no electrician but I've read whatever is used, it be rated so as not to add any undue resistance in the starting circuit. Cranking amps on 6v systems are higher and need the best ground possible.

 

Your switch  is certainly the easiest solution. I wonder if there's a way to ascertain its rating.

[JohnD1956]

I cannot help with that Charlie. I sure hope it does not fall apart.  I have had it on the car for 5 or more years but cannot remember where I bought it or the exact date.  I have used it almost weekly,  for the last three years.  It shows no sign of deterioration. 

[JohnD1956]

Back then most of my purchases were at the local NAPA store. Here is a better picture of the switch. 

[RivNut]

[Bhigdog]

The posts are tapered as is the cable lug. Wring it on, wring it off, as required. I,ve done it that way for over 25 years. Never had a switch failure, never spent a cent, and never had a failure of the battery doing what it was supposed to do........bob

[buick man]

... Gee fellas how about this rig :  

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GMPPYYI/ref=psdc_15733961_t2_B003VZXY4K