1924 buick Master 6 open car new project new guy here.

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Hi there.

My name is Apolo from southern CA and i know i have to introduce myself like when i was in kinder garden..

well to make this pleasant and short i will let my new car speaks for itself, 

i like to hear what you guys think about it..

i definitely will need help finding some small parts for this guy , but all the mechanical hard parts are there like water pump , starter generator and a lots of sheet metal from around the car is here .

for what i was able to find from  the ex ex owner of this car is that  he thinks the engine was rebuild back in the late 90's, i have pull the valve cover and everything looks like new still .

this car was always garage, and there's no rust.

looks like the did start a frame off restoration , since the frame and other parts are nice finish .

if anyone knows any more info is well appreciated.

cheers and thanks for having me ..!


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Benefits of AACA Membership.


2015 Welcome Apolo!

 As you know by now there is a group of us on the forum with similar Buicks. I have a 1925 Standard touring and a 1925 Master touring which is almost identical to yours. I have many photos of 1924-45 cars. I tried to buy one at auction in 2010 and another in 2015. So I had done plenty of research. The one in 2010 was very correctly done while the one I bid on in 2015 was quite an interpretive, (to me) an over the top restoration. As my one friend said that the owner went through "PEP BOYS" with a magnet! Also there is a 24-45 (also finally back on the road) about 2 miles from me in Chambersburg PA.

 Just say the word and help will be on the way!

2010 Auction car.

2119113212_DSCF0647(1024x768).thumb.jpg.c4bd339efe34d39ec1f8ebe53269d00b.jpg    256739486_fi1072.jpg.d9e8d1ba23ce10c8f5d143cfb678270e.jpg

This car was only missing the headlight bar the S/G cover and the Spark Plug cover. Unfortunately the engine was locked up.

The owner once removed from the auction purchaser has it running well and was at our Mason-Dixon car show with it in 2017.

 The auction buyer spent much money redoing the S/G and tore the engine apart never able to unlock the engine. The new owner bought it for less than half paid in 2010 at the formers bankruptcy sale.

2015 Auction car.


Local to me 2 miles away. Now back on the road again.



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     Welcome to the forum.  You have a really nice car to start with.  Much better than what a lot of us have started with.  You will get lots of help.  We will need to know what level of detail you want to do your restoration to.  There is a lot to do and I don't need to tell you that.  This is a long term project.  It can overwhelm you quickly so tell us what you want to tackle first.   Pasted here is what I send most new owners as it was very helpful when I was given this same advise.


Your posting is in the general car parts for sale section.   It would be good if you asked the moderator to relocate your posting to the Buick Pre War Technical section.  You will have better results there with getting what you need.     Hugh


New Buick Owners Guide & Prewar Starting guide.          Hugh Leidlein                  12-22-19   C

Welcome to Buick ownership.  Here are some tips to get you started.

The following books are necessary for Pre war Buick Ownership.   They come based on 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder models prior to 1925, or for Standard or Master 1925 and up.  Basically around 115” wheelbase is the smaller Buick series and 120 to 128” wheelbase is the larger Buick series. 

The Buick Heritage Alliance sells the following books.  The quality of the copies is only “fair” in many cases.  This may work for some people, depending on how many pieces your car is missing or needing.  I suggest buying an original book of parts if you can find it due to the better print quality.  

1)      The “Book of Parts” for your year.  

2)      The “Shop Manual” for your year

3)      The “reference book” for your year (of lesser importance if you can find a shop manual).

It is helpful in many cases to obtain copies of the parts books for 1 or 2 years before and after your model year.  Many times there is additional information or photos that will help with your understanding.

Note: Only a handful of parts used on a 4 cylinder model fit a 6 cylinder model.  Same with so few Standard parts will fit a Master.  The 4 cylinder line became the Standard, and the 6 cylinder line became the Master so there is interchangeability in that order.  Parts interchange is closest based on wheelbase of the models      

There is also available a big book of parts “Buick Master Parts List 1916-1932”.  This 3” thick book provides a listing of the years and models for each part.  You will have better luck finding a part knowing it’s year and model range rather than just looking for a single year.   This book does not have a lot of pictures and will not be a good substitute for the book of parts for your year, but I refer to this book frequently.   Some find it of little use - based on how many parts they are missing.

There are almost zero “exploded views” of parts, so take a lot of photos and notes during disassembly. 

------------ Precautions------ THESE ARE NOT MODERN ENGINES------Damage can occur.

The first order is usually to see if the engine will turn over.  Do the following first.

1)      Pull the Water pump hoses

 The water pump is on the side of the motor.  The issue is that the camshaft gear is fiber, and it drives the waterpump.  If the water pump is frozen or drags, it will destroy the timing gear teeth.  Parts will fall in the engine.  The camshaft gears are expensive and new gears are not of the same quality as the originals.  The first order of business should be to remove the water pump hoses to ensure the pump rotates on the shaft.   Without the hoses, it should rotate 180 degrees. Note that some earlier models have a water pump housing bolt that also needs to be removed.       

Water pump shafts are steel unless a recent replacement to stainless.  The water pump bearings are bronze.  If the antifreeze was not cared for, rust on the WP shaft could wear the bronze bearings out quickly.  The WP seal is graphite packing.  The wear surface should be smooth and the packing should only be tight enough to prevent major leaks of the waterpump.  It should drip a little bit here and there.  If it does not, the packing is too tight.  Most people replace the shaft with a stainless steel shaft.

2)      Change the oil (and filter if it has one).  Strongly consider dropping the oil pan as well. 

An oil change is probably long overdue.   Don’t cut corners and skip dropping the pan.  Pre 1926 cars had no oil filter.  Non detergent oil was used for years, and there is likely a lot of sludge in the oil pan.  I have seen the oil pick up screens clogged from sludge, and this will starve the engine and could suck the screen in.  Bob’s Automobilia or Olsons Gaskets has an oil pan gasket set.  This is not a hard job.

3)      Oil the Cylinders

Pull the spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders.  If penetrating oil or Marvel mystery oil was used in the cylinders, you must follow it with regular oil once the engine begins to turn. 

4)      Pull the valve cover. 

Squirt oil on the rocker assembly.  Bump the rockers with a rubber mallet over the valve springs to ensure that all the valves move.  Drip oil on the valve stems if you can.

5)      Pull the engine side covers.

Squirt oil on the cam shaft rollers (and cam bearings if you can get to them). 

After doing the above 5 items, you could rotate the motor, even crank it with the starter.  If the engine is or was frozen, let the cylinders soak for at least a week in penetrating lube.  It is best to try to unstick a frozen engine from the flywheel end and not the hand crank end.  The handcrank is not that strong.  Put the transmission in 1st gear.  Use 4 people (2 in front and 2 at the back) to rock the car back and forth in an effort to free the pistons.  Parts frozen by rust come apart easier if you work the frozen part back and forth rather than continually forcing the rotation thru the rust.  Reversing rotation allows some rust to move out of compression between the parts.

Note that the pistons are removed only from the bottom of the engine on early Buick motors.  If you do get the engine to rotate, strongly consider pulling the pistons out the bottom and cleaning the cylinder walls and the ring grooves and doing an inspection - prior to reinstalling and firing the engine.     

It would be great to get a compression tester.  Around 60 lbs pressure in each cylinder is a good motor.  There should be less than 10% deviation in each cylinder.  Spark plug adapters are available from Ford Model A parts suppliers.    

Cranking the motor is a good thing to check off the list.  A compression test gives a good check on the health of the motor. 

Preparing for starting – knowing that the motor turns over:

1)      Pull the carburetor. 

a)      Clean out the fuel bowl. 

b)      Use carburetor cleaner to ensure all internal passages blow thru. 

c)       Consider installing a Nitrolphyl float – available from Bob’s Automobilia or Gregg Lange. 

d)      Check that the air valve lays smooth against the carburetor inside diameter and that there is a narrow gap at the base of the air valve.  You may need to file the pot metal venturi block.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Marvel Carburetor Rebuilding”.

2)      Check that the exhaust manifold valve (on the front end of the exhaust manifold) is open.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Buick Exhaust valve removal”.

3)      Rebuild the distributor.  The distributor should rotate by the advance levers on the steering column.  Several years of distributors were pot metal and the distributor housing will grow and freeze into the generator housing.   Replace with a steel Buick distributor from other years.  Do not force the movement as there are potmetal gears at the base of the steering column that are not that strong.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Distributor Replacement”.  Also search for “Distributor rebuilding”.

4)      Rebuild the Water pump. (see the forum for upgrades to the seals and shaft). There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Water Pump Rebuilding”.

5)      The fan hub is an old design that requires frequent oiling and will leak oil all over the motor.  Replace it with a sealed bearing hub – Several suppliers for this.  Search the AACA Forum “fan hub replacement”.

6)      Rebuild the vacuum tank and gas tank * I prefer to do the “fuel supply” system later as there is a lot to this.  For a first start, I hang a 1 quart used lawnmower tank and feed the carburetor with this from a reinforced rubber fuel hose, or just pour gas in the vacuum tank.  It will hold about a quart. Search the AACA Forum “vacuum tank rebuilding”.


Other notes:

Oil and grease is usually long overdue for removing the old and installing new (and not just installing new.)  Clean out as much of the old as you can first.


Engines that have laid dormant for decades may have significant rust in the engine block.  You do not want this in your honeycomb radiator as they cannot be rodded out.  Consider installing a Gano filter into the top radiator hose to catch sediment and keep rust out of the radiator.  Also consider removing the engine freeze plugs and cleaning any rust out of the block, or at least reverse flushing out the engine water jacket with water and without radiator hoses just prior to start up.

The firing order is 142635.  (Reverse of a modern engine).

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Hello Apolo, and welcome to the FORUM.

Hugh's advice is your best starting point,

and as you already know, there is a huge amount of experience and support on our BUICK FORUM threads.


Best of luck with your "new" Buick

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Apolo.   What are your plans with this car.   Are you considering a full,  body off restoration or getting the engine running and then refurbishing individual parts.  As you have a very complete car,  if it was me, I would work on one part at a time.  The problem with dismantling a car is often they never get back together again and you end up with lots of parts.  All the best with your new project,  and keep us informed on your progress.  We love to see updates on what people are doing on their cars.

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Best of luck - you have a good looking car to start with which is a huge advantage. Is the '57 Cadillac in the driveway yours also? Can not see much of it but what shows looks solid.

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Hello guys there..

Thank you very much for all your good vibes on my new project..!

and thank you Hugh for the steps to follow on the car.

to answer some questions here .

i think one of the guys recommended not to disassemble the car , or else it will end up like many cars do now this days.

my intentions are to get the car running fist, since i know by taking the top and bottom off the engine , this was rebuild.. like the previous owners mention before,\

so i'm working on getting the water pump unlock from seating so many years out of the car .

same thing i'm doing with the starter gen unit and distributor..

i already spray some oil in cylinders first day i got the car ., but i have not try to turn it yet, i will do the tapping and oiling on top of valve train as one of the guys recommend it.

i just had about a month ago a shoulder surgery ...so i can't even look at the car right now  i even took it to a friends pace so i do'n't even have it here for faster recup on my surgery ..you know if i see it every day i will definitely work on it ..and i shouldn't.

but i'm getting knowledge as much as i can  on this car, wile i'm a cripple guy for now.

i think i have a very complete car so far ...but small items like door handles and hood handles and some hood hold down  latch  are missing some parts from trying to restor it over the years.

one think  is that over the time this car change hands a couple of time , i'm pretty sure a few parts where lost on this transition

but they are parts i can probably get them with time .

i will try to get the books for parts , but i have a few that came with the car.

in regards of contacting the administrator about moving this chat to the correct one , can i do it from here or i do have to get in touch with him on some other way..?

thanks for all your help , i will need it ..!

and will try to post all the pics i can , for now on the parts i have.

cheers guys ..!


PS. the cadillac shown on the picture still for sale from the guy i purchase the buick.

 his in Northern CA








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3 hours ago, apolo1100 said:

so what's the trick to load more pics ...?

do i have to erase some ..?

There is a limit of 9.77 MB per photo and per post. If you resize the photos to a MB or so, you can then post 9 in a post. Otherwise, exit your topic, exit that forum, then go back in and you can post some more.

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