apolo1100

1924 buick Master 6 open car new project new guy here.

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lost of work done today..vapor blasting some stuf..including the spare carb ..it came out like new..

don't have a pic yet .

next step is heat treat the stud for the tie Rod.

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fixiing tie rod bar ..!

took me 3 hs ...to set it up and find out i had the wrong set up for the pitch...lol..

until i got it right.!

 

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today was a great day for a cruse.!

almost run over the mitget in front of me ...

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Today was cleaning the carb on the speedster ,, we have a vintage Dragsters reunion on Saturday here in  ugly CA...!

so we are planing on drive this beast to the place from about few block from it..

i was trying to start it  by hand,  what a job, and with a recent  shoulder surgery ...

it did kick me once .. but was to hard for me ..

will try to post a video running  on Saturday.

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done with spare carb for the 24 buick..

looks really nice..!

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Apolo

Does the venturi air valve close completely or does it stop at partially open position ?

The 1925 Marvel carbs have a half circle shaped fixed air valve spacer block which swelled over time due to bad die cast aluminum alloy, and the air valve hits this block before fully closed position.  This results in air leak past the air valve and it will not generate proper vacuum to draw fuel out of the venturi nozzle.  This will affect performance.

To fix this we remove the spacer block and hand file the flat side until the valve will swing closed. may have to file .030 off until it works.

Since Marvel changed this carb every year between years 1923 and 1926, I don't know if the 1924 carb used this same die cast spacer block.

First pic is what to look for: valve stops before closing completely; second pic shows valve fully closed. 

kevin

venturi block before.jpg

venturi block fixed.jpg

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Hi Kevin.

I already notice this issue on this carbs by reading one of the old posts..

my carb close the valve completely like the second picture..

it took me o lots of work trying to get the plunger loose from the adjuster with the spring inside.. was all rust it out.

but with heat and a bit of muscle it around  i got it loose..then the two bottom screws was the same problem.. heat it a few times to get it going..

ohh..!  also the main shaft was stuck to the body .. , that was the hardest one of all..

 but since there was a lot of aluminium to heat up .. it took a few times before got loose..

 

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today i was able to reinstall the tie rod bar ..

feets pperfect and now the steering is tight.

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Apolo, 

     Great job straightening this and putting it together.  It looks like you are missing the leather dust boot that goes between the sheetmetal cover and the tie rod itself.   It is a leather oval with a hole in it that fits around the ball.  Bobs sells them for about $5 a pair.    Hugh

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Thanks Hugh for the info ..!  

i was going to make it out of a left over piece of leather from the upholstery material, but its always easier to buy them from Bob's..

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Can  anybody tell me the shifting pattern for my car ..?

I thought that it will be same as my 29 ... but Not ..

this 24 ..it shows the reverse position  in the front far right..is that correct..?

 

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Moved here upon request by @apolo1100

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Posted (edited)

Thank you guys for move my thread to this section of the pre war technical section .

And for all of you new guys that have not seen this , here i'm trying with the help of good guys from the forum  to finish my 1924 Buick 45 open car.

i consider my self very lucky on acquiring this car in great condition for its age.., also the wood part is very strait and solid on my car .

i have meat a new young nice guy today near my place  that's working on a 1928 standard 4 door car and there doing the complete wood work on this guy ..!

OMG  what a job..!  my respects to them on this project...

well i was supposed to find them a  thread here where there's one fellow that was making or had the roof section  drawings for  the standard cars .? or so.

if anybody has that .. i remembered seen it  but can't remember where.

thank you guys ..

Cheers 

Apolo.

 

Edited by apolo1100 (see edit history)
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ok for the first post on the new section ... here i have a video of the first time i pull it out to the street on his own ..!

but unfortunately at the end of the video you will see or hear something i was not aware of..

one tire was low on air , and upon steping on the brakes.. one wheel snap of it's place and cut off the vale stem  on the tire tube.

Dam. it.. i have to go and get a new one tomorrow at Lucas tires in Long Beach...ohh whell.!!  inexperience guys have to pay to learn this things..

Also the shifting pattern was not like my 29 buick and you can clearly heard that i was moving it in 3rd gear..!

now i know is a reverse H pattern ..

well this was a short drive .. but will try again soon ..

here is the video link

.https://youtu.be/_ro9iUoN4jY

 

 

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Very Cool! Yes the shift pattern is a backward H. I have 2 1912 Buicks that have that pattern. A good friend has a 1928 Master Phaeton that has the normal H Pattern. Rode last fall in 1926 Buick in Ridgeway, Colorado that is a replica of the first “Galloping Goose” on the Rio Grande Southern Railroad at their Musuem Grounds were they had put down a half mile circle track. It was a backwards H pattern. I have been told 1928 was the first year for normal H pattern with Buick.

 

Tom Muth

Cincinnati, Ohio 

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Apolo, 

      I have created all the wood drawings - full size (except the doors) for a 1925 Buick Standard Touring model 25.   The Touring bodies were made by Buick.   The sedans were made by Fischer Body.  Several guys have rebuilt their sedan tops but I have not seen any wood drawings for those cars.  The body wood is similar construction on the cars, but not the same as mine.   The top are completely different.    Hugh

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