DazedinDayton

1924 Touring Car First Drive (Cut Short!)

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Hi all, first off I want to thank you collectively for your help in educating me about this car via your posts on this forum and private messages. Then I suppose we can get into the (short) story...

 

I traded for this car five months ago and have done relatively little with it since. I ran it a few times in February and March but the soft top was taller than my garage door so I decided not to drive it until I had an extra set of hands. Then I got busy with all sorts of things-family, college, work, and then those stinking tornadoes! So the poor old girl sat in the garage unloved until a couple of days ago.

 

After a good amount of fiddling, flooding, and frustration, I had the car running and idling great off of fuel in the bowl. But the vacuum tank float is sticking (or sunk) so it floods the carburetor to the point of overflow within seconds of opening the bottom fuel supply valve to the carburetor. 

 

Despite that, the car was running again so I got brave. We took it around the block. It ran badly down the hill but really missed, stuttered, surged, and backfired on the way back up. We did make it up the hill but not around the corner to the house. Basically, it would chug along just fine so long as I kept fuel in the bowl and the vacuum tank shut. Too bad I can't really drive it that way!

 

So I towed my '24 DB the rest of the way home with a '73 Elec Trak E20. I can only imagine what a silly sight that must have been.

 

There are a few things I already knew needed addressed but the vacuum tank float is the top of my list. I've seen all sorts of opinions on whether or not to repair, replacement with an electric pump and regulator, etc. But I want to know from the guys who've done it: is this something I can rebuild at home? Are components available? Could I try flushing the tank manually with some sort of cleaner/solvent without damaging it?

 

One last note: When I ran the car in February it would not overfill the carburetor and flood. By the time I started it in March, it would. I feel like this is a "I let the car sit too long" type of issue. 

 

Here's a few pics from earlier... there's a video of me towing it on the electric tractor but I'll save that for later! :)

 

IMG_1572.thumb.jpg.c10219d36629ecabed1f262604666816.jpgIMG_1571.thumb.jpg.5b512cd6a94d21211e3f86b585573dcc.jpg

 

 

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If the carb overflows when you open the vacuum tank valve the problem is in the carb. Take the float bowl cover off, two screws. MAYBE the float has a hole. DID it have water in it over winter and freeze? MAYBE the float is stuck. MAYBE the linkage on the needle valve is out of position. 

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My brass float had cracks in it and leaked when I first got the car.  I got a new one from Myers along with a needle seat w/rubber seal and have had no carb problems since.

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I am definitely leaning towards your problem being in the carb.  Whether it's the float leaking or the needle sticking or just dirt, you need to go thru it.  I would also strongly suggest that you go thru the vacuum tank and at least clean it and install new gaskets as well.  All the parts you will need are available. Finally at least flush your gas tank and lines.  Dirt in this system can be your worst nightmare.  If the inside of your tank is dirty/rusty you need to have it cleaned and sealed.  None of this work is rocket science nor expensive. Once you are done you will never have to worry about your fuel system.  Another suggestion would be to try to always run ethanol-free fuel in the car.  I know there have been numerous discussions on this forum and others regarding the problems with this stuff so I won't go into it here.  Trust me, it's junk and you don't want it in your car.  I have been forced to run it at times when touring in an area where it wasn't available, but the first thing when returning home is to drain the tank, refill with non-ethanol and run the car enough to purge what is left in the lines and carb before putting the car away.  You've got a nice DB there, good luck and enjoy!

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