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Hey guys,

I hope everyone had a great 4th of July weekend! I wanted your input on my weekend project. I couldn't find any documentation on why the brainiacs at GM decided that riveting the aluminum drums to the hub was necessary. But there has to be a reason, right? So I drilled out the rivets and replaced them with 5/16 bolts. I really dont think I need them however until I know more about this Rivi, I'm just going as close to stock as possible. I'm not new to working on older cars. My first car was a 72' C10 (I still feel sick to my stomach knowing I sold it). But this Riviera is kicking my butt due to all the nuances that make this car so damn cool. 

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Posted (edited)

The brake pads where seized to the steel inserts of the drums. I thought I had no choice but to use a cutoff wheel to cut the drums to release them from the pads. If I would have known that the rivets were what was holding them on to the hub. I might have been able to save this drum. And I couldn't find the answers I needed by searching this forum. I also didnt want to start a new thread if the question had already been asked. I didn't want the verbal-lashing I guess. Live and learn I suppose..

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Edited by M. ALEMAN (see edit history)

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This is the after photos. I ordered 2 new steel drums for the front.. The "golden" color you see is cosmoline. I used it since I wanted to protect the exposed metal until I could get the car in my garage. Since the front drums were seized. 

20190706_133907.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I used a grinder and clearanced the nuts so that the stock wheels could be remounted. 

20190707_180337.jpg

Edited by M. ALEMAN (see edit history)

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14 minutes ago, M. ALEMAN said:

This is the after photos. I ordered 2 new steel drums for the front.. The "golden" color you see is cosmoline. I used it since I wanted to protect the exposed metal until I could get the car in my garage. Since the front drums were seized. 

20190706_133907.jpg

 

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once you have the drum on the hub, you need to turn them,(make sure they will not give on those bolts) with the hub, to make them true to the spindle, ya, you kind of goofed up on that, but doing is learning, if you wanted an original set, i have plenty i saved over the years, 

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Thank you Wildcat1562, I didnt realize I needed to have them turned. But I'll definitely do that. What do you mean "make sure they do not give on those bolts"? 

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Wait what lol ? the drums are riveted to the hub assembly on these cars? why ?

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6 hours ago, Hearse said:

Wait what lol ? the drums are riveted to the hub assembly on these cars? why ?

I have no idea. This the first time I've ever seen this before. 

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There's a recent thread that covered this topic and answered all these questions.  Go to the search function.

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11 hours ago, M. ALEMAN said:

The brake pads where seized to the steel inserts of the drums. I thought I had no choice but to use a cutoff wheel to cut the drums to release them from the pads. If I would have known that the rivets were what was holding them on to the hub. I might have been able to save this drum. And I couldn't find the answers I needed by searching this forum. I also didnt want to start a new thread if the question had already been asked. I didn't want the verbal-lashing I guess. Live and learn I suppose..

 

You won't get verbal lashings on this forum.  The guys on here are pretty nice about it.  They will tell you to search but they won't make you feel bad about it.  Thank you for sharing what you did, the brake work turned out nice.

 

Chris

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Posted (edited)

I recommend at least locking washers under those nuts.

Maybe stake the bolt to nut.

A lot of thermal expansion/contraction potential combined with drive vibrations.

 

This reminds me - I need new shock absorbers.

Any source recommendations?

 

 

 

Edited by PWB (see edit history)
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It looks like there are some brake parts missing back in your second picture...... seems like there are more parts to the self adjusting brakes and the cross bar between the shoes is missing.

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Barney,

 

   That's a pic of the L/F brake assembly so no E-Brake cross bar needed.  I must say they are CHEAP bonded linings with the lining material fastened wrong. Too bad the poster wasted so much time & money doing what was done not knowing or searching here 1st. for the nec. parts or how to remove stuck/rusted drums.

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2 hours ago, telriv said:

Too bad the poster wasted so much time & money doing what was done not knowing or searching here 1st. for the nec. parts or how to remove stuck/rusted drums.

Concur.

 

The shop manual is your friend.  The minimal cost to buy one and the few minutes to read the relevant pages would have prevented the needless destruction of a (likely) serviceable part.

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1 hour ago, KongaMan said:

Concur.

 

The shop manual is your friend.  The minimal cost to buy one and the few minutes to read the relevant pages would have prevented the needless destruction of a (likely) serviceable part.

I purchased a chassis manual but it didn't cover the brakes. (How to remove the drums). I'll search for a shop manual and pick one up

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3 hours ago, telriv said:

Barney,

 

   That's a pic of the L/F brake assembly so no E-Brake cross bar needed.  I must say they are CHEAP bonded linings with the lining material fastened wrong. Too bad the poster wasted so much time & money doing what was done not knowing or searching here 1st. for the nec. parts or how to remove stuck/rusted drums.

Oh I did search here. But I couldn't find a post that answered my questions. 

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Maybe you should have just asked????

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Posted (edited)

Here's the thread that I think Rivnut was referring to.  I was asking the same question, but was not doing any disassembling just asking question.  Mine are still riveted.  You will see there are a lot of opinions.

Art

Edited by awk409ak (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, awk409ak said:

Here's the thread that I think Rivnut was referring to.  I was asking the same question, but was not doing any disassembling just asking question.  Mine are still riveted.  You will see there are a lot of opinions.

Art

There are not a lot of opinions. Just one opinion addressed by a lot of guys. "Why mess with something that's been working for 55+ years.  No need to reinvent the wheel."

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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Hi Rivnut,

You make a good point.  I asked this question on the other thread that I started, because I had seen it done with cast iron drums (removing rivets), with no operational issues.  My curiosity kick in and thought I would ask the question to this forum.  I know what the repair manual states.  I'm good with that, but I still can see that OEMs were asked to do sub-assemblies and this may be an example of one.  I for one would much rather just remove the wheel and then pull the drum to check my brakes (I think my 66 Chevelle SS 396 did not have rivets) than to mess with the bearing, grease and mess, not to mention the tightening of the nut on the hub.  Then again not knowing what the factory was thinking, maybe they wanted their service personnel to remove the hub to check the bearings and grease. I don't have the answer.

Not trying to re-invent any wheel here, but you learn more by asking why and that what I was trying to do, learn more.

I'm still new to this forum and have registered and do not want to offend ANYONE.  Just asking questions!

 

Thanks,

Art

      

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On 7/9/2019 at 10:03 AM, RivNut said:

"Why mess with something that's been working for 55+ years.  No need to reinvent the wheel."

 

I am pretty sure the last question in the designer's mind was service of the car at 55 years old. And the marketing department was doing all that could to get the buyer into the next model in 3 or 4 years.

 

You weren't supposed to keep the car that long.

Bernie

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