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Ok guys, give me some of your expert advice please, took the 40 Buick out for a ride, i have done a full restoration on this car, won my 1st place senior at Hershey in 2016, engine rebuild etc, i do not drive this car very much, so i decided to start driving it this year, it's time to start driving this car and have some fun.  So after you know all of this, i took it out this past Sunday for about a 15 mile dry, when i got back and shut it off, the radiator overflowed out of the overflow tube.  I decided to take out the thermostat, took it out today watching the temperature rise as i drove at about a 50 mph pace, again when i got home same problem, temp reached about 195-200 degrees with no thermostat.  So i think it is either a clogged radiator or water pump not working, no leaks any where, so after that what would you all approach 1st, as always thanks for all the advice and help i have received from this forum!

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More than likely plugged water passages in the block if the engine rebuild did not include taking all the core plugs out and physically cleaning the water jacket.

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Engine was rebuilt properly, cooked out etc, so do you still think that would be the problem?

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Is the antifreeze clean?  What is the condition of the radiator internally.  Was it flow checked?  When it is running, can you see water flowing into the top header tank with the radiator cap off. 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, papafarms said:

cooked out

Exactly my point.  Unless the sediment is PHYSICALLY removed, it is still there. In the 60's the GM Dealership where I worked cleaned pounds of crud out of dozens and dozens of Buick engines and we we not even a Buick Dealership.

Try it, knock out the rear plug on the side and see whats in the water jacket.  It only costs one welch plug to check.

Edited by Tinindian (see edit history)

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I cleaned my 1940 out with muriatic acid. With radiator out and water pump removed I was able to pour a couple quart bottles of muriatic into the upper water jacket hole. Filled it the rest of the way with water, let it soak for half hour, and all the rust came out, the acid was rust-brown as I rinsed out the muriatic. Runs cool as a cucumber now.

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Put the thermostat back in, after testing it. It is not the problem.

 

Dont' fill coolant closer than about 2" to the top of the radiator. Basically, just cover the bottom of the top tank. Otherwise, it will spit out the excess water when you stop.

 

What did you do to the radiator?

 

 

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HI guys, thanks for all the info, the radiator was properly done from a radiator shop a few years ago when i did the restoration, what do you all think about disconnecting the upper water jacket minus the thermostat and basically do a back flush?

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2 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

 

Dont' fill coolant closer than about 2" to the top of the radiator. Basically, just cover the bottom of the top tank. Otherwise, it will spit out the excess water when you stop.

 

 

 

This is true.  With no overflow tank for expansion like a modern car, the top tank becomes the expansion tank, and the must be space left there for the coolant level to expand and rise. 

 

Also if the water/antifreeze mix is more than 50% antifreeze, it can overflow after stopping the engine.  Happened to me, that's how I know.  

 

My Buicks are much older and different, but if I pushed them to 50 they would heat up and run up around 200 degrees too.  Is that overheating, or normal for that speed? 

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Posted (edited)

I would say the  cooling system was a bit overfull.  When shut down it burped out coolant.  It is probably at its happy place for coolant level and not burp out any more after shutting it down.   I found out this was the case when topping of my Buicks with on overflow tank.  Eventually it finds its level and it never happens again.  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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Is there actually steam? Is the coolant boiling? 200 degrees is hot, but not unreasonably if you left it sitting after a drive and it was able to heat soak. I agree with the others that if your only symptom is a little puking out of the overflow, it might simply be too full. Fill it to the top of the core, but leave the upper tank empty. It needs room for expansion. Since these cars don't have catch cans and pressurized systems, that expansion will go out the overflow tube if there's no room in the tank. Let it find its own level after driving it a few times, don't keep topping it off. Once you've driven it for a while with no more puking out of the overflow, then you can evaluate whether the cooling system needs additional help.

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Make sure your fan belt is tight. I assume the water pump in new.

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Good Morning all,

 

These engines do not cool properly without the thermostat, therefore you should put it back in at your earliest convenience.  As Matt Harwood indicates, having the temperature climb after shutdown is a result of "heat soak", meaning the residual heat in the engine is not being removed by circulating coolant after shutdown.  I've found it very effective (and less mess on the garage floor) if I restart the Buick about 5 min after hot shutdown to allow the coolant circulate for a minute or so which will bring the temperature down very quickly.

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10 minutes ago, 1937 Buick 66C said:

Good Morning all,

 

These engines do not cool properly without the thermostat, therefore you should put it back in at your earliest convenience.  As Matt Harwood indicates, having the temperature climb after shutdown is a result of "heat soak", meaning the residual heat in the engine is not being removed by circulating coolant after shutdown.  I've found it very effective (and less mess on the garage floor) if I restart the Buick about 5 min after hot shutdown to allow the coolant circulate for a minute or so which will bring the temperature down very quickly.

 

Or, just don't overfill the radiator. 

 

Recently on a 90 degree day I took my 27 (different animal, I know!) for a state inspection sticker.  I had to wait over 30 minutes in the hot sun.  I shut the motor off, the dash temp gauge soared to over 200 (max on the gauge), the motometer read in the top circle, and I lost no coolant from the radiator because I left room for expansion. 

 

Are 1940's Buick cooling systems pressurized?  Makes no difference.  Pressurizing 50/50 antifreeze and water raises the boiling point, does nothing for expansion, so you can still get leakage out of the overflow if you are over full. 

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I was always told never shut a working eng down cold turkey let it idle a short time to stabilize the coolant temp.    Mike

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Ok, thanks for all the info, i will put the thermostat back in, and will just cover the radiator not topping, it is a 50/50 mix,  again thanks for all the info!

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Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, papafarms said:

i will put the thermostat back in,

 While it is out check that it works properly in a pan of water and a thermometer before reinstalling it.

Edited by 1937-44 (see edit history)

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Papa,

You could do what I did, and that is to hide a quart can inside your right front fender and connect your overflow tube, with an "S" bend in it to the can.

Cut the silicone tube at a 45 and run it to the bottom of the can. It will act as a siphon, just like a "new" car does.

There is clearance between the frame and the inner panel, and the can will sit on the little ledge toward the front inside of the fender.

Just secured mine with a small bungee cord.

Don't forget to paint the can black, so nobody will know it's there.

 

Mike in Colorado

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an infrared heat gun is an ideal tool to check hot spots like the back corners of the block. It can also tell you if the flow through the  radiator is across the full width  or just down the middle.

 

They are cheap and easy to use.

 

Bob Engle

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One thought involves the coil spring inside the lower radiator hose.   After the engine cools down grasp the lower hose and try to squeeze it to feel the coils of the spring.   If you do not feel a spring inside then the engine runs hot because the lower hose is collapsing under the suction provided by the water pump, especially at speed or high RPM.

However, if there is a spring inside the lower hose and the radiator is over filled then the posts above are right on.   I also use a laser pointer type heat gun to diagnose these issues.

Joe, BCA 33493

 

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OK everyone, thanks for all of the advice, i just back flushed it this morning, will refill tomorrow and give it a try, thanks for the lower hose spring will check that tomorrow also, will let everyone know what the verdict is tomorrow, again thanks to all that gave me their tips and advice, take care and wish me luck, thanks Bob

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Here is a back flush tool that works well.   I have the first one that blue from OTC.  I have used it on both the radiator and the engine until all of the water comes out clear.

 

https://www.google.com/search?ei=LPQnXZvuMc-8tAa1yr_oAg&q=otc+radiator+back+flush+tool+with+air+assist&oq=otc+radiator+back+flush+tool+with+air+assist&gs_l=psy-ab.12...6427.7932..9705...0.0..0.120.193.1j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.vgQokGwcJrM

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

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SO, took it out for a small drive, noticed the car was heating up, hanging around the 185-195 degree, so headed back, let it idle a bit then shut off, temp continued to rise to 200 while sitting in garage, i did check the bottom hose today after forgetting to check it before the drive, NO SPRING, so will take care of that soon, dont know if that could be the culprit, as i said did the back flush till clear water continued, while doing that the temp remained about 145-150.  if all this continues, will try the muratic acid treatment, again thanks to all for your continued help, thanks bob

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