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Removing brake drum-‘29 135 with wood wheels


Jrbrks
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When I remove the wood wheel from the front of my 1929 Model 135, will the outer brake drum be removed with the wheel?

 

Do I need to remove the tire and rim before removing the wood wheel, or can I remove it as a single entity?

 

I think my wheel cylinder may be plugged, as I replaced the flexible brake line, and I can get no fluid out of the bleeder.  Fluid runs through the end of the flexible hose, so I am guessing the brake fluid flow is plugged somewhere in the wheel cylinder.

 

The flexible hose I replaced was deteriorated and leaking, but only a very small amount.

 

Thanks

Jim

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Thank you, Bill.

i am very slowly learning to work on a vehicle of this vintage.  It was not entirely clear to me, when I looked at the service/owner’s manual.

I appreciate the information.

Best

Jin

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Yes, I know the dilemma. I got my first Franklin July 4, 1973. You should have tried to get info then. I didn't even belong to the club till later that year. At least I had several Model A Fords under my belt but that just gave me limited 1930's knowledge. It's been a great ride though and a straight path to grease, busted knuckles, and empty wallets.

 

Aura Vincit

Bill

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1 hour ago, hook said:

Yes, I know the dilemma. I got my first Franklin July 4, 1973. You should have tried to get info then. I didn't even belong to the club till later that year. At least I had several Model A Fords under my belt but that just gave me limited 1930's knowledge. It's been a great ride though and a straight path to grease, busted knuckles, and empty wallets.

 

Aura Vincit

Bill

The 135 / 137 Operators and Maintenance manual is available from on-line booksellers such as AMAZON ISBN 1530145511, the parts book is also available ISBN 1095816217 

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Yes! We have a vast amount of available information now. Including readily available service bulletins, Drawings, service charts, manuals and old question & answer data done before the AACA forum. All on the Franklin website to members.   

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15 hours ago, Jrbrks said:

When I remove the wood wheel from the front of my 1929 Model 135, will the outer brake drum be removed with the wheel?

 

Do I need to remove the tire and rim before removing the wood wheel, or can I remove it as a single entity?

 

I think my wheel cylinder may be plugged, as I replaced the flexible brake line, and I can get no fluid out of the bleeder.  Fluid runs through the end of the flexible hose, so I am guessing the brake fluid flow is plugged somewhere in the wheel cylinder.

 

The flexible hose I replaced was deteriorated and leaking, but only a very small amount.

 

Thanks

Jim

Jim,

You can get new wheel cylinders through NAPA,  or Rock Auto on line. Wagner Lockheed #695.  For 28/29 brake backing plates, you may have to file out the wheel cylinder mounting holes about 1/8 inch bit wider apart, but that won't hurt anything. And it doesn't show when the bolts are installed.

 

Or, better yet, send your old cylinders to be sleeved and rebuilt by Apple hydraulics on Long Island. About the same cost as new but last far longer against corrosion.

 

And I can assure you from decades of rebuilding brake systems that if you have one cylinder that bad, then you have three others and a master cylinder, not far behind.  Better to pull them all and have them also rebuilt properly.  While your at it, consider replacing the copper lines with the new parts from the Club's  website For Sale "Parts Project". The brass end fittings can crack from decades of outward pressure as the zinc leaches out and the brass weakens. Seen it many times.

 

A good braking system is the only thing separating you and the back of the vehicle in front of you.  

 

Paul  

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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If the brake hose is deteriorated externally it is quite likely swollen inside.  You can push fluid thru to the cylinder  but there is not enough pressure from the spring  on the brake shoes to push the fluid back to the master cylinder.  Hose sets are available.

 

Gordon Howard

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20 hours ago, PFitz said:

Jim,

You can get new wheel cylinders through NAPA,  or Rock Auto on line. Wagner Lockheed #695.  For 28/29 brake backing plates, you may have to file out the wheel cylinder mounting holes about 1/8 inch bit wider apart, but that won't hurt anything. And it doesn't show when the bolts are installed.

 

Or, better yet, send your old cylinders to be sleeved and rebuilt by Apple hydraulics on Long Island. About the same cost as new but last far longer against corrosion.

When I went to NAPA for wheel cylinders for my '32, they were over $100 each, and I get a discount! Apple Hydraulics rebuilt them for $85 each. When the car sat for a few years while the engine was being rebuilt, the master cylinder failed. I brought it back to them (after seven years), and they replaced all the soft parts and cleaned it up while I waited. I highly recommend Apple Hydraulics.

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