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A little late, almost back together, planning on turning it over Friday, that's what I said two months ago.

Do these timing marks look OK? more concerned about the cam marks, I believe they are supposed to be very slightly below the top of the head, these are about even with it.

also, a quick question, who made the 16V block ( i should know this)

 

THANKS

        Peter

20190611_123759.jpg

20190611_123810.jpg

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Posted (edited)

It would appear that you have it set correctly. However, I would suggest you rotate the crankshaft by hand 2 full rotations, then reinspect the marks to verify that they still line up.

You alone can be the final word here, as you are there and we are stuck looking at a photograph. I have to wonder why the crankshaft pulley bolt is not in place? This is the means by which you should rotate the crankshaft in making your judgement as to correct or incorrect. Did you hold the camshafts 'PINNED IN PLACE' as the manual shows? If so, it looks like you have it set properly.

IMG_2619.thumb.JPG.4ba1e19c608c4ed7ae7d4124ebae3c65.JPG  

Edited by Hemi Dude
Removed sender’s photo to clarify my reply. (see edit history)
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To your other question: The engine block is a Chrysler manufactured block, similar to the engine blocks in all the other vehicles, but specifically cast and machined for 16v use.

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It looks right, but I suggest following Hemi's advice.

 

Yes, the block is a Chrysler block. Depending on when it was cast, it could be either an early "non-commonblock" or the later "commonblock". There are 2 easy ways to tell which it is: if the rear oil pan rail is straight between the bolt holes on the firewall side or if it lacks a fuel pump block-off plate on the water pump side of the block it is a commonblock. It's important to know for the front main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pan, oil pick-up, and crankshaft, but there's not really any benefit or detriment either way.

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Posted (edited)
On 6/27/2019 at 11:52 AM, Reaper1 said:

It looks right, but I suggest following Hemi's advice.

 

Yes, the block is a Chrysler block. Depending on when it was cast, it could be either an early "non-commonblock" or the later "commonblock".

308774044_16Vengine-front.JPG.16bed61ac11a26e70afdac0b11308444.JPG 

Here is a 16V 'Early Block' engine. You can see the difference in the front seal retainer between the 2 engines, so Peter's is a 'Common Block' engine. 304797720_16Vengine-front14.JPG.8e1fd911950613a91a2389eb0f9466de.JPG

Edited by Hemi Dude
Eliminating duplication (see edit history)

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Ah, I didn't know that the picture above was of the OP's engine.

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Reaper1, what do you mean by your comment above. Who is OP?

The 2 photos I enclosed is an engine I built for a customer years ago, to show what the early Block looks like on a 16v engine.

Ah, I didn't know that the picture above was of the OP's engine.

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OP = Original Poster

 

Yes, I realized your pictures were of the same early engine. I didn't catch that the picture above that of the crank sprocket was of the actual engine in question, not an example.

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Thank Guys,

Sorry no feedback from my end recently, had to move from my condo to a new house the beginning of July and I hate moving, I think everyone does.

 

Started the 16V last week sounds ok, got a code 24, cleaned up the connection and codes went away, one odd vacuum hose to to the right of the Turbo into the firewall is broken, will fix that tomorrow.

A little whining noise, I believe the timing belt is rubbing on the cheap plastic cover that was compromised when I took it off, did the best with JB weld ? it will fix itself, hopefully. 

Plan on driving it home on Friday, will keep you posted, Thanks everyone for ALL the help.

Peter

TC timing.jpg

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A little whining noise, is usually because you have the belt TOO TIGHTLY adjusted. Did you use the proper Chrysler weighted tensioner tool?

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no, sorry Hemi, I dont have all the special tools, went old school and cranked it down, but considering I could barely get a wrench on it with some leverage, I would be surprised if its too tight.

 

I'm really thinking / hoping it's the timing belt cover.

 

Thanks for your concern.

 

Peter

 

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I’m still telling you that it is too tight, especially after your explanation of “cranking it down” Try running it with the covers off. I’ll bet you will still hear the ‘whine’.

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I agree with Hemi...whining is an indication it's too tight. It will also ride on the edge of the cam gears.

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Peter!

If you could find a socket to fit loosely over the adjuster and hang a ratchet handle out to the left, sticking straight out at the 9 O'Clock position, that would be close to replicating the factory 'weighted tool' used to tension the belt correctly. The belt will be much looser than you would think when properly tensioned.

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thanks so much! I will take a very deep look into it tomorrow and will not push on the road till I'm confident i wont hurt her.

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Soo,

 just got back, you guys are great.

took the upper TB cover off , much better but still squealing a little.

took the plunge and took of all accessory belts, removed the main crank pully to make life easier.

backed off the tensioner and no more noise, but the timing belt is traveling towards the 1 cylinder and almost rubbing on the valve cover.

Backed off the tensioner even more thinking it would correct but no. Backed it off almost dangerously loose and still off centered on the cam sprockets?

What am I possibly missing? what drives the timing belt to be centered on the cam pulley's? I was so excited to drive it home tonight, but Christmas will come another day, soon i hope.

 

much thanks as always,

 

peter

 

    

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This *shouldn't* be it, but it's a long shot...is the intermediate shaft pulley on the correct way? It should look almost the same as the cam pulleys, but it mounts on the shaft "backwards".

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I'll have to take a close look and a picture next trip to my car, about an hour away. Thanks

 

I did order the cam tensioning tool should have it on Friday

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Looking at your 2 tools inserted in the camshaft aligning holes in the camshaft retainer caps, it does not look like you have the camshafts indexed properly. 

I hope the picture was just for show and you corrected the cam indexing afterwards.

fullsizeoutput_1c34.thumb.jpeg.2bc20905a1aab75ede2f6ae6747e0b01.jpeg

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Hi Hemi,

I dont understand, all the marks are lined up, I removed the valve cover to confirm that I could pin/lock the cams just to make sure.

put everything back in place and runs smooth, sounds ok. A slight mysterious rev of the RPM's every minute or so.

what are you seeing that looks wrong, the only thing that I notice is that the cam lobes are not completely on there heals?

 

I appreciate your scrutiny, and of course want to get this right.

Thanks,

     Peter

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On 7/15/2019 at 5:36 PM, pesd said:

 

 

TC timing.jpg

 

In looking at the photo above, you will notice that neither 'tool' appears to be in the locating holes of the 2 camshafts. I don't know if you repositioned the camshafts after taking the photo.

I just wanted to bring it to your attention. 

 

I myself am in the middle of head and gasket replacement on my ancient 280+K  '89 TC.  

And here I thought I was immune from engine 'failure' but fortunately it occurred 15 miles from home and I was able to drive her home without further damage.

I could have been in Calif. or Florida or anywhere in between.    Fortunate, that is all I can say.

 

Also remember, the sprockets can be installed two (2) ways on each camshaft. 

Everything may be just fine and if I worried you for no good reason, sorry!

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No apologies, 

Thanks for your help and concern, will know more on Friday.

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Driving great! purring smooth. Thanks to everyone! 

Checking Engine oil on dipstick, right on the high mark, should I drain some out or leave it alone?

Thanks,

  Peter

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I would leave it, as longs it is not OVER full.

IMG_2656.thumb.JPG.62be68e622760bbb7a7f774fddc73616.JPG

I'm still working on my 89 8 valve engine, putting it together after a head repair and new head gasket.

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Thanks, just right at the full line, I'll leave it be.

good luck with your head rebuild, its looking good.

thx.

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